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FrozenGate by Avery

Wat batteries to use






bobhaha said:
Wat batteries should i use in my Blu ray laser... i use AA batteries but they flicker and run low very fast.. should i buy these (DealExtreme: $3.48 Rechargeable Batteries AA) or do you have any alternatives (must be AA sized)
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How many AA's are you running? I had the same flickering problem with my flexdrive/PHR-803T build. It was solved by changing around the batteries to get me about 3.4v~ and now it runs (and eats stuff) like a champ. It seems to me that those flexdrives get "finiky" when they near their voltage safe threshold.

Those batteries both of you linked are pretty bad. No point in buying ni-mh rechargables (1.2-1.5v~) when you could run lithums. Double the power HALF the space (3.6-3.7v~)

-Mike
 
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ok cool i have got another probelm... now my laser just wont turn on.. i dont know y... i dont think i have recked it but i dont know whats wrong.. i have been using it for a few mins in its bare form.. no solder and no casings... i dont think i shorted it out.. i was using it to burn a match.. then i turned it off now its not turning on.. and ideas?
 
bobhaha said:
ok cool i have got another probelm... now my laser just wont turn on.. i dont know y... i dont think i have recked it but i dont know whats wrong.. i have been using it for a few mins in its bare form.. no solder and no casings... i dont think i shorted it out.. i was using it to burn a match.. then i turned it off now its not turning on.. and ideas?
Click to expand...

Do you mean you were using it while it was not in a module? How did you have the connections secure without solder? I hate to say it but a loose connection can quickly kill a diode from the capacitor on your driver not properly discharging. Give me a little more information and we will try to troubleshot this together

-Mike
 
kk the diode is in the module. the wires are soldered (sorry for the confusion) then the wires are just attached to the driver then the wires are just attached to the driver from the battery pack.. any ideas??
 
bobhaha said:
kk the diode is in the module. the wires are soldered (sorry for the confusion) then the wires are just attached to the driver then the wires are just attached to the driver from the battery pack.. any ideas??
Click to expand...

Even though you may not see it.. without solder there may be "intermittent" connections which don't allow the proper flow of current. I would solder every joint and re-solder every already soldered joint to make sure that you don't have a cold solder. If your driver is truly set to 110mA it will be hard to burn up a PHR without trying really hard.

First step though, solder solder solder. How many batteries are you running? and what type are they?

-Mike
 
Energizer AA batteries ok i will solder it all up now and resolder the pins (btw just noticed my post above made no sense at all).. i will post back in a sec tell you the results

thank you -Adrian
 
bobhaha said:
Energizer AA batteries ok i will solder it all up now and resolder the pins (btw just noticed my post above made no sense at all).. i will post back in a sec tell you the results

thank you -Adrian
Click to expand...

How many AA's? I would not run more than 3 (1.5*3=4.5) which is near the voltage threshold for your flexdrive.

-Mike
 
bobhaha said:
Iam running 2 atm is that ok??
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2 Alkaline batteries is probably your problem. Once your flexdrive drops below 2v it shuts it self off. Take it from me, that laser will suck the life out of those alkaline batteries quickly. If you tested the voltage on those AA's I wouldn't be surprised to see their voltage hovering around 1.1-1.2v~ which is barley enough to drive a flexdrive. The sweet spot is around 3.5-4v~ and no more than 5v.

So either run 2 FULLY charged batteries or 3 less charged batteries. That may be the problem right there.

-Mike
 
hmm.. ok but they are brand new batteries.. thats y i think something fishy is going on.. btw almost finished soldering
 
bobhaha said:
hmm.. ok but they are brand new batteries.. thats y i think something fishy is going on.. btw almost finished soldering
Click to expand...

To be honest, with Alk batteries.. brand new necessarily doesn't mean they will have a full 1.5v charge. Usually if they are old(could have been sitting around for a while), they will have a nice 1.5-1.6v surface charge which will quickly fall off. Leaving you with the above mentioned 1.1-1.2v~

-Mike

EDIT: Also, be very careful while soldering on the diode pins. It really does not tolerate heat well. As far as soldering on the driver... you will be hard pressed to damage it with a commercial soldering iron.
 
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ok cool.. so what should i do now if i cant get it up and running with the current batteries??
 
I was looking at your picture in your other thread. Make sure those batteries are in series and not parallel. Series is {+ -] {+ -]

-Mike
 
Just noticed that my reply are within the same minute of your posts... lol call that speedy service.
 
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