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FrozenGate by Avery

Using expensive flashlights as hosts, specifically the TN30 and X40

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Feb 23, 2012
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Hi LPF, :wave:

I was thinking about building a laser on a premium flashlight, such as the Thrunite TN30, TN31 or the Supbeam X40/K40.

ThruNite-TN30-XML2.jpg


xm-l2-led-1.jpg


_vyr_342Supbeam-X40-XM-L2_001.jpg


kjud.jpg


I really like them because they take 3x 18650's and can have a really nice copper heatsink in them. They also have 6 brightness levels via the adjustable ring, and the X40 has an infinitely variable brightness ring.

However, I foresee few potential problems:
1. The TN31 and the K40 are designed for single XM-L2 emitters and the drivers have a maximum voltage output of 4.55V. I think that would not be enough for driving a 9mm diode at 2.20A.
1.1 Although the TN30 and the X40 are triple XM-L2 emitters, I'm not sure if they're wired in series or parallel. If in parallel, we run into the same problem as the single emitter ones. If in series, we would need to make sure the driver is a true constant current driver and I would need to modify the sense resistor to output only 2.20A.

2. Getting a fitting copper heatsink.
International hipping would be a killer, so I'm trying to get the heatsink machined locally. I think I'll be able to measure out the dimensions of the heatsink, but I might have some trouble getting out the threading correct.
2.1 I'll need to decide whether to get a 9mm direct press heatsink or a direct press module heatsink or a heatsink with a set screw. Any recommendations for this build?

That's it for now, I'll update this thread as I continue on with some thinking. :D

Thanks all!
 
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OK slight necro here but no-one ever responded so here goes:

It seems like all of the expensive flashlights have the best shapes and battery capacities, and the head size (no references here) are always enormous because of the need for heat dissipation.

I have been looking at the skyray king/ fandyfire UV-S5

However, i dont have a solution to your driver problem, so if yo end up using THAT host you will be stuck with a non-functioning mode slider.

I see why you are trying to keep the original drivers, but in the end you may create more problems than you solve.

Anyways, good luck to both of us!

:beer:
-Matt
 
Thanks for your reply, it's funny how I was working on testing out the TN30's driver with a scope just few hours ago!

I did a sense resistor mod to pull the current down to 2.4A, which is perfect for a 9mm LD, and the mode dial ring still does its magic.

I'm going to get the heatsink for this one machined, hopefully I can build some sets so that others can experience the luxury of these hosts. :)

(I probably need some sleep, haha.)
 
You have been busy in the last two months! Good job. Make sure to update with pics and results!

:beer:
-Matt
 
If you can pull this off then great but IMO its still not worth it. Yes its unique but I'd rather have a stock TN30 than a TN30 body with a 9mm. To each their own
 
TN30 has a mode selector ring. That would be cool, and I don't think that is a feature on very many lasers. However, the question is always, is this feature worth it to me (or someone else, if the end intention is to sell), and is it worth the extra I paid for this vs. a cheapo china lookalike host.
 
Indeed a $150 TN30 and a $35 SRK basically accomplish the same thing of pumping out 2500-3000 lumens, there are many people who prefer the TN30 because of its build quality and mode selector dial (no PWM, anodizing, etc.) and I think the same can be applied to a laser host. We'll see how this goes. :)
 
Great idea ryan, very complex although it's laser diodes we're talking about and 9mm diode has a Vf of 5.1V @2.4A so the driver might not be the perfect but one can look into it. Did you put it on a test load set to 5-6V and see if it gives out enough VDC out.
 
Yup, the TN30 drives 3 XM-L2 LED's in series, so it's designed to output 10.5-11.0V @3.0A, but I modified the sense resistor to decrease the current to 2.4A.

I have used a test load to make sure the driver still outputs 2.4A at 5.1V, and thankfully it doesn't exhibit any spikes when turning on or switching modes.

The TN31 or the K40's drivers have a max voltage of 4.5V because they're designed to drive a single XM-L at high currents (3.5-4A).

Edit: With a sizable heatsink on the TN30, which do you guys think is better, direct press or using a copper module?
 
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Sorry to bump but I'm curious if you ever got to try the one with infinitely variable driver. That would be really cool in a laser.
 





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