Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

Tutorial - My 'Pocket Pal' Blu-ray Laser!

I think I need to go out and buy myself a new Virtual Visa Credit Card.

I NEED MOAR INTERNET MONIES!
 





Two problems.

How do I get the metal ring out thats in step one. Its in there pretty tight, I am not sure that will come out without any damage at all...

Ignore that it, done it.

Other problem, or more of a question. The final result runs on 1 battery yes?
 
lamborgini8 said:
Other problem, or more of a question. The final result runs on 1 battery yes?
Click to expand...

3 X AAA is 4.5 volts. Perfect for the FlexDrive. Which is designed to have a supply of between 2.5 volts to 5.5 volts...
Jay
 
jayrob said:
[quote author=lamborgini8 link=1213338268/60#65 date=1219945691]
Other problem, or more of a question. The final result runs on 1 battery yes?
Click to expand...

3 X AAA is 4.5 volts. Perfect for the FlexDrive. Which is designed to have a supply of between 2.5 volts to 5.5 volts...
Jay
[/quote]

Hmm ok then.

Well I now have most of the parts, the host and optics are here now so I will be ordering the heatsink from you very soon.

One other thing about the driver though, I am using an open can red diode in this so what will be best to use? the DDL or Flexdrive?
 
For this Pocket Pal build, it would very difficult to fit a DDL driver in there. I say use the FlexDrive and follow the tutorial. For a Sony/Senkat diode, probably 250mA's to 300mA's would be good. 300mA's would put you around 200mW's with this diode.

For an open can diode, you'll have to push to 340mA's to 350mA's to get to 200mW's. (I say 'push', because of the smaller host/heatsink)
Jay
 
i will also say the flex drive would fit best..... also if you are planning on using the 10440 batteries you can use the rckstr drive no problem
 
jayrob said:
For this Pocket Pal build, it would very difficult to fit a DDL driver in there. I say use the FlexDrive and follow the tutorial. For a Sony/Senkat diode, probably 250mA's to 300mA's would be good. 300mA's would put you around 200mW's with this diode.

For an open can diode, you'll have to push to 340mA's to 350mA's to get to 200mW's. (I say 'push', because of the smaller host/heatsink)
Jay
Click to expand...

Hm ok.
 
How's that build going lamborgini8? The heatsink should have made it there huh?
Jay
 
Quick question about the driver circuit connections to the little round board.

How exactly do I connect it up? I am guessing from your picture that the posotive wire goes through one of the holes where the LED was, but what about the other?

The only thing I can guess is to join it to the very side where the thin washer makes contact with the side.

Is that what I am supposed to do?

Edit:

jayrob said:
How's that build going lamborgini8? The heatsink should have made it there huh?
Jay
Click to expand...

Its progressing, its taking slightly longer because I am using soldering irons and such from work.

I have just removed all of the LEDs and will be buying the FlexDrive in a day or so and mounted the diode in its optics a few days back.

I don't have a heatsink yet, once the driver is mounted and connected to the diode and working I will send payment for the heatsink.
 
on the round board the negitive is any of the outer pins where the led plugged in.

i just desolder one of the led and run the battery - from the driver to the round boards -

it should make sense once you get the leds off
 
thesk8nmidget said:
on the round board the negitive is any of the outer pins where the led plugged in.

i just desolder one of the led and run the battery - from the driver to the round boards -

it should make sense once you get the leds off
Click to expand...

The LEDs are off and that didnt make sence.

Before I took them off I connected some crocodile clips up to the spring and the rectangle bit of solder on the outer edge of the board. The LEDs powered up then.

Thats why I am wondering how the driver is connected, the picture only shows 1 wire connected to the same place as the LEDs were.

I dont even know if the driver is meant to be connected paralell or series.
 
there are two wires hooked to the round board and then to the driver.

if you look at the side of the round board that has the srping on it you will see the spring which is your positive and also the holes and contacts where the led connected.

then you will see an outer ring going around the whole board and you will see that it doest make contact with the inner (+) contacts. this outer ring is your negative.

now you will connect the negative from your driver to the negative on the board (the outer ring)
and you will connect your positive from your driver to the inner circle (spring area) of the board.


hope that helps.. if i was at home i would snap some pictures but im not
 
thesk8nmidget said:
there are two wires hooked to the round board and then to the driver.

if you look at the side of the round board that has the srping on it you will see the spring which is your positive and also the holes and contacts where the led connected.

then  you will see an outer ring going around the whole board and you will see that it doest make contact with the inner (+) contacts.  this outer ring is your negative.

now you will connect the negative from your driver to the negative on the board (the outer ring)
and you will connect your positive from your driver to the inner circle (spring area) of the board.


hope that helps.. if i was at home i would snap some pictures but im not
Click to expand...

I am thinking along the same lines then.

It's slightly different than you explain though. I don't have an outer ring on mine, just a small rectangle bit of solder every quater of the way around the board.
 
yeah those are the actual contacts you should have if you look at the board a dim circle of silverish green color(its the copper under the boards laminate) and if you look closely there will also be the same silverish green ring under the spring and then there will be a gap in between the + and - of just green.

that is the metal inside the circuit board which makes the whole outer ring connect to the contatcs
 
thesk8nmidget said:
yeah those are the actual contacts you should have if you look at the board a dim circle of silverish green color(its the copper under the boards laminate) and if you look closely there will also be the same silverish green ring under the spring and then there will be a gap in between the + and - of just green.

that is the metal inside the circuit board which makes the whole outer ring connect to the contatcs
Click to expand...

Thats info I dont need to know.

All I need to connect the driver to is the outer rectangle and the spring part?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.





Back
Top