Thoughts on my design

[Solomon Laser]

What's to calculate. It's a scalable model. There are a few draw backs to the design imo. I'm not concerned about heatsink in or the typical talk. Let me ask you. Do you have any handheld lasers you have built yourself? With the handhelds I have built I set the module depth in the heatsink based on the focus point of the lens. When the focus adjuster is flush and in contact with the heatsink the focus of the beam would be just outside of infinity focus on the diverging side. That way a small counterclockwise adjustment will bring it into proper focus. If the module isn't set deeper below the face of the heatsink, there will be anywhere from 3mm to 5mm of separation and exposed lens barrel. That would allow an undesirable wobble of the lens and focus adjuster piece. DTR had a 22mm heatsink it was version 2. Look that up. The focus adjuster piece was trick. It's not made anymore. But it would compliment your design to do something similar.

I understand what you are referring to with the focusing length, and that is very smart! But my design will be using the standard 12mm copper diode housing, this way 3.8mm, 5.6mm, and 9mm diodes can all be used along with different diodes and different focus points.

 

[Solomon Laser]

Ecclesiastes 1:9

Let me kindly assure you that this design isn't anything new and we could potentially help you refine your design if we can see your calculations.

My thoughts - Nice tinkercad models but there isn't really anything substantial to share thoughts on. Looks like just another mini host which we've all seen before. If you had specific goals with it, I.E. - runtime..ect, and you shared your calcs maybe I could provide some feedback of some actual value.

No, it is probably not new, but I will be incorporating some features that are completely new! I plan on incorporating super thermal conductors (5x better than copper) so smaller hosts can use very powerful diodes... exciting things to come!!! Also, most of the previously made member hosts are originally flashlight housings, these are designed for lasers from the get go. I am not to familiar with more than 1 or 2 designs this size that can put out over 1 watt, especially a kit that only requires one to screw the parts together.

The ultimate goal is to make a host this size that can power 3-5watts with a good duty cycle do to superconductors.

For the superconductor I will have to figure out the run time by experiments... but this stuff is super cool

Here is my updated design, the aluminum has slots in it to expose the copper for style and heat conductivity!!

 

[Benm]

Why CR2 though?

I understand you want to build somehting very small and hence with a limited duty cycle as there is just no way to cool it at a decent power level.

But CR2 is a nasty battery form factor: there are very few if any vendors of really reliable CR2 cells, nor are there many changers that take them without fiddling around with spacers and such. Since capacity is so limited something like a 1 watt laser will not run off one cell even if it was a good one.

I'd consider going for someting a bit bigger, like 16350 or 14500 sized cells at the very least if you want to output a watt or more.

Also you say you have done the calculations and predict this design to have 'good run times' - what do you consider 'good'? A minute?

 

[steve001]

I understand what you are referring to with the focusing length, and that is very smart! But my design will be using the standard 12mm copper diode housing, this way 3.8mm, 5.6mm, and 9mm diodes can all be used along with different diodes and different focus points.

You've thought about heat sinking. Given some thought to *batteries, but I've not heard a word about optics. Some diodes project a line, a rectangle others an oval. No seller offers a laser with beam correction optics or anyway for the end user to customize the optic system. Such an option would I think be welcomed.

*Think beefy (mA capacity) when it comes to powering a 1W.

 

[Solomon Laser]

Benm,

CR2 is certainly not the best battery for high powered lasers, you are right! For the pocket one that I shared my design, it is perfect however do to the power and the fact that the length is small allowing the unit to fit into the pocket! For my higher powered models (3watts) I will be using a CR123A, 14500, or something of the such.

And Benm, that has been the traditional thought, that there is no way to cool something small at a high powerlevel, I believe this is false, as there are several options now; one involving superconductors, such as graphene. I do consider 1 minute a good duty cycle for a pocket model... after all, how many of us need/want a pocket laser to be on for more than a minute straight! Right now, I believe there are at least three good options for cooling high powered diodes in a compact space.

Steve... I am not as familiar with optics, optical engineering is one of the most complex fields and I dobt I will be able to design my own optics like i can super heatsinks.

 

[dden4012]

The optics are available to us. We need a platform to place them on. Do a search for ' 6x cylindrical ' to see what is needed.

 

[Solomon Laser]

The housings will also have the option to include lenses similar G series lens at a very reasonable upgrade price

 

[Eracoy]

This is a cool little design, and I've been thinking on such a design/size myself. I really like the screwing of a module into the heatsink. I would be interested in one if you ever start selling them, and especially so if one could be made with the body bare copper as well. That's just about exactly what I've been looking for. One idea for a bit of an over-the-top mod for this would be to cut a groove in one of those divots and put a sliding potentiometer in to adjust the driver current on the fly. That would be pretty darn cool in my book.

 

[BobMc]

This is a cool little design, and I've been thinking on such a design/size myself. I really like the screwing of a module into the heatsink. I would be interested in one if you ever start selling them, and especially so if one could be made with the body bare copper as well. That's just about exactly what I've been looking for. One idea for a bit of an over-the-top mod for this would be to cut a groove in one of those divots and put a sliding potentiometer in to adjust the driver current on the fly. That would be pretty darn cool in my book.

Like the sliding potentiometer idea. Boy I'd be all in for a couple of host like that. Great idea!

 

[Solomon Laser]

This is a cool little design, and I've been thinking on such a design/size myself. I really like the screwing of a module into the heatsink. I would be interested in one if you ever start selling them, and especially so if one could be made with the body bare copper as well. That's just about exactly what I've been looking for. One idea for a bit of an over-the-top mod for this would be to cut a groove in one of those divots and put a sliding potentiometer in to adjust the driver current on the fly. That would be pretty darn cool in my book.

Thank you!

Actually this is going to happen, expect to seem them for sale in one month! They will be affordable too and will come with a few batteries, a G2 lens in addition to a focusing knob will be included!!:shhh::shhh:

I choose to not make the whole body copper because copper is soft and many people will choose to throw this in their pocket with their knives and keys and the copper will dent and scratch Trust me, heating will not be a problem, I updated the heat sink and it should have a long duty cycle! I should have a picture of the build design in the next few days, I will share.

Well, tell me more about the sliding potentiometer because currently only 3 drivers can fit in the unit. a 17x17mm driver, microboost driver, and nano buck driver. I wanted more to fit, but all of the drivers are just too large . I am not sure how to add this, please give me some hints?

Right now the only problem I am facing is that the CR2 battery cannot power a M140 diode to full brightness like CR123A, is there anyway to add a small button cell to provide more voltage so it will? It is certainly brighter thought then when powered with a 14440!! Can some one who is very experienced help me with this?

Also, my next design will be a small host (under 6 inches long and 1 inch wide) that can fit in the pocket but will still be 5-6watts of blue without overheating!!! I have found some ways to control the heat very well.

 

[Solomon Laser]

My mistake, the m140 laser diode is brighter with a AAA Li ion than a primary CR2, not sure if it is the voltage or the current or both that is responsible for this. I am going to try a CR Li ion and see, and buy some meters.

 

[Solomon Laser]

All,

It is here. This host is now a reality! It is to my knowledge the most powerful compact laser!! The size of a lipstick but able to output 2W of blue!

Every host will come with a G-series lens!


Unlike other custom lasers this one is not a modified flashlight! It was designed for a laser diode from the beginning. It uses the highest quality aluminum that is hard anodized and has a generous copper heat sink! Any 5.6mm and 3.8mm diode can be used with it. It was designed for large amounts of heat while still being very compact!

I will have pictures of the finished product this weekend. Here is a picture of the unit without the groves, hard anodizing, and paint!!

 

[Solomon Laser]

Here is the Pic.

Much ***ier ones to come

 

[Encap]

Here is the Pic.

Much ***ier ones to come

"The ultimate goal is to make a host this size that can power 3-5watts with a good duty cycle do to superconductors." ??

An Arizona guy with a photo that has a Chinese phone number?

 

[Benm]

So? I looks like a reasonable prototype to me.

Personally i do not like lasers that lack cooling to run 100% of the time, but there seems a decent amount of thermal mass there as well as a good length of thread to install a lens.

One thing i miss is some kind of surface area enhancement, the outside is just a plain cylinder as it is. Getting some texture onto that (knurling, small fins, etc) may improve both thermal dissipation and grip a bit.

Expect no miracles though, something this small will not output several watts continously, just for lack of surface area. Even if it was made out of diamond or any superbly thermally conductive material, the exterior area is the limiting factor.

Also, why aluminium? The approach would be better if it was brass/copper entirely since you are using the mass to dump the heat so it can run for a limited amount of time. Considering the larger density of copper it would be the material of choice, unless weight is also a concern.

 

[BowtieGuy]

Good catch, Encap, you now have a new user name - "Ole Eagle Eye".