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FrozenGate by Avery

Thor's Hammer First Light !






What we really need to do is combine or converge a lot of these, I have uses for a lot more power in a tight spot
 
RedCowboy said:
What we really need to do is combine or converge a lot of these, I have uses for a lot more power in a tight spot
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That sounds cool but shouldn't we concentrate on getting the large amount of power we do have already into a tight spot first ?

Or will the "combine or converge" you mentioned help accomplish that ? :undecided:
 
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If not corrected and combined or at least converged an uncorrected bundle makes only a spotlight.
This is a very old video of 24 x 1w diodes, but it shows the point.

Other than combining by way of new Bragg grating methods and fiber methods such as a fused biconic coupler and combining diodes with a wavelength shift, it's looking like larger single emitters are the way to go. The latest and greatest is the true fiber laser, it's a double clad yttrium doped fiber and they can be combined with fused biconic coupling, before that was a seed laser that was amplified by way of neodymium doped plates pumped by flash lamps or pump lasers, this is all very cool and expensive.

There are the yag lasers both CW and pulsed and a lot of big heavy wasteful gas lasers that do yield a high quality beam, many invisible.

It's possible to combine many wavelengths of similar divergence lasers with a Bragg grating and keep it portable.

The best way I see to get power on the mark on the cheap is to converge several low cost lasers, but they should be corrected enough to reach the distance you want to work at, I would like to make something that looks really cool and has some power, I am still learning, but I will always appreciate getting results on the cheap, just remember that safety comes first always.
 
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I share a lot of the same goals as you but I'm even further back than yourself on the learning curve. Speaking only for myself when learning something completely new it ends up costing me much more money than was really needed because I prefer to learn by trial and error then beg for help from lets say "The genius at the apple store" type of person if you know what I mean, But again that's just me......
 
:gj: on the build, i can imagine you walking outside with a thor hammer hehe
 
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Accutronitis said:
I share a lot of the same goals as you but I'm even further back than yourself on the learning curve. Speaking only for myself when learning something completely new it ends up costing me much more money than was really needed because I prefer to learn by trial and error then beg for help from lets say "The genius at the apple store" type of person if you know what I mean, But again that's just me......
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I'm all about sharing what I know and learning from others, and if someone has a better way then by all means show me, I will be happy to do it their better way as long as I don't have to spend 10X the money for a 5% increase in performance.

Sadly cost is a factor and I suspect many people are content with the ready made lens and ready made expander that works pretty well.

But for those of us wanting more and looking to the future I am all about sharing what little I have learned and I want very much to share in the fruits of their labors and I will give praise and recognition in place of financial contributions that I cant afford.

People who are sharing their knowledge that they spent time and money to acquire do deserve at the least some praise and recognition, as well as some respect, you said something before, you said babble away and I will learn, well if you are polite and accept a little protocol correction in a new place, lets take this place, it's not really a free public place where free speech rights prevail.

No it's privately owned and if we as guests don't follow the rules then we can be ejected, so if the know it all at the apple store has some knowledge and by kissing a tiny bit of his backside you can gain some knowledge, then you can work ahead with that new knowledge while he sits around talking, then you can give away what he knew and more without requiring a lick on your boot.

But that's an extreme example, most people here are helpful and mostly worry about safety, liability, and a modest amount of courtesy is expected or they won't bother to get up and help you, but you already have learned the secret, it's all here in text, just start searching and reading and you can figure most of it out, although I still don't know how to calculate lenses even though I am very good at math, I really should, it will be needed to bypass the idiot proof GBall of tomorrow.

With the right lens we simply reverse engineer.....I just had a thought, what if I pulled the can off a GBall diode ( 1 of 2 of the same diodes, same lens order ) and cut the can down, then simply turned the lens around and mount them face to face?

Could I not get a point equal the distance of the emitter to the intact GBall with a emitter size point to correct and run with?

It just means sacrificing 1 to use another out of the same block.

Bring on the next gen I have a plan.
 
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RedCowboy said:
I'm all about sharing what I know and learning from others, and if someone has a better way then by all means show me, I will be happy to do it their better way as long as I don't have to spend 10X the money for a 5% increase in performance.

Sadly cost is a factor and I suspect many people are content with the ready made lens and ready made expander that works pretty well.

But for those of us wanting more and looking to the future I am all about sharing what little I have learned and I want very much to share in the fruits of their labors and I will give praise and recognition in place of financial contributions that I cant afford.

People who are sharing their knowledge that they spent time and money to acquire do deserve at the least some praise and recognition, as well as some respect, you said something before, you said babble away and I will learn, well if you are polite and accept a little protocol correction in a new place, lets take this place, it's not really a free public place where free speech rights prevail.

No it's privately owned and if we as guests don't follow the rules then we can be ejected, so if the know it all at the apple store has some knowledge and by kissing a tiny bit of his backside you can gain some knowledge, then you can work ahead with that new knowledge while he sits around talking, then you can give away what he knew and more without requiring a lick on your boot.

But that's an extreme example, most people here are helpful and mostly worry about safety, liability, and a modest amount of courtesy is expected or they won't bother to get up and help you, but you already have learned the secret, it's all here in text, just start searching and reading and you can figure most of it out, although I still don't know how to calculate lenses even though I am very good at math, I really should, it will be needed to bypass the idiot proof GBall of tomorrow.

With the right lens we simply reverse engineer.....I just had a thought, what if I pulled the can off a GBall diode ( 1 of 2 of the same diodes, same lens order ) and cut the can down, then simply turned the lens around and mount them face to face?

Could I not get a point equal the distance of the emitter to the intact GBall with a emitter size point to correct and run with?

It just means sacrificing 1 to use another out of the same block.

Bring on the next gen I have a plan.

Oh and personally I don't care about someone's attitude or unique demeanor so long as they want to work together with the program, it just helps if everyone is respectful of each other.
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I can't disagree with any of that.......
 
RedCowboy said:
My finned NUBM44 would run the batteries down if I sat a little PC box fan behind it, without the fan it was good for about 2.5 - 3 minutes, summer or winter makes a 20 % difference or so.

I expect with forced air he could dissipate the 16 watts of waste heat as long as the batteries held up.

If run off a PS and with forced air it should run unlimited.

Fins are very efficient surface area multipliers, every surface is a heat vehicle, before the heat pipe radiators, projectors and PC's ran all day with forced air over fins.

p.s. The temp at which the dissipation rate reaches equilibrium depends on the ambient air temp, it would likely run in a house at 72F ambient air temp at about 99 - 110 F estimated, which is not unreasonable.

He has a lot of fin area, it may well stabilize dissipating the 16 watts of waste heat with a decent fan and stay below 99 F

55288d1489671511-thor-s-hammer-first-light-hh44a-2-.jpg



This sink is rated to handle a 20 - 100 w LED without forced air, likely at higher temp than we like, but with a small fan it would dissipate 16 watts like a champ. NUBM44 gets 4.5 amps in at 5 volts = 22.5 watts and puts out 7 watts of light and 15 watts of waste heat.

1pc 90x40mm Aluminium Heatsink Round for 20W 30W 50W 100W High Power led bead | eBay
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How did you make the sink fit on the host. What is the design?
 
Alien Laser said:
:gj: on the build, i can imagine you walking outside with a thor hammer hehe
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The funniest thing happens when I go outside at night and fire the Hammer up into the night sky, There are these rather large but thin fly like bugs flying around at night and if one happens to fly through the beam they instantly drop straight down to the ground ! :crackup:

Andrew124C41 said:
Other than Sawnu, where are you getting the G7s?
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I got my Sawnu G7 yesterday and a word of warning about the Sawnu G7 lens ! To focus the beam to a point at ANY focal length you have to screw the lens way out to the point that it is a half a thread away from falling out when used with one of DTR's copper modules ! It's not DTR's modules fault because all other lenses that I've used (dif types and makers of 3 lenses and G2 lenses) are screwed in where you would expect them to be ! It seems to be something funky about the Sawnu G7 lens that it needs to be screwed way out to get to a focus at any focal length !
 
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I have been asking Poco about having the manufacturer set the G7 lens into the barrel a few mm. Great lens but not optimum implementation. Having the lens halfway into the lens barrel would allow it to be used on the red diodes as well.
 
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