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The right driver

Death Ray

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Hi guys, i found a neje 1500 violet cheap laser module on ebay, as you can see on the picture 1.
This is for engraving, buy i would like to assembly on my perzonalizzed host, as you can see on the picture 2.

Can someone help me to find the right driver for this laser? Just in case i receive the product without driver inside...

Thanks you.
 

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The e*bay page says 0.8 - 1.0 Amps @ 5V so I would use this driver.

NOTE: These drivers come set on the lowest setting so you will need to adjust the driver up or you can ask the seller to set it to ..... 0.9A

Also I would get a host from Lifetime17 rather than using that generic e*bay host.

REMEMBER TO ALWAYS LASE SAFELY !
 
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If you need to buy a driver and set it yourself that can be done if you have a multimeter that measures voltage and a dummy load with a 1 ohm resistor and silicon diodes in series that can be manipulated to have varying numbers of diodes in it. If you measure across the resistor mV= mW. By changing the number of diodes in the series the voltage should remain constant and the voltage will vary to keep the current constant.
 

Death Ray

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It's written 5V. But the litium battery is just 3.7 V. Is it enought to run the diode? Or i should use an host with 2 litium 3.7 and add some resistor?
 
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It can be run on two alkalines, a single lithium and spacer, or two lithiums.
 
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With a good CC driver you might need to add batteries, but you should never need to add a current limiting resistor. A buck driver would be a good choice here.
 
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It's written 5V. But the litium battery is just 3.7 V. Is it enought to run the diode? Or i should use an host with 2 litium 3.7 and add some resistor?

That SEPIC driver I linked for you is capable of bucking and boosting, the input is 3 - 12 volts and the output is 1 - 9 volts, so you will use either 1 or 2 lithium ion cells such an 18650, or 18350 or even a 16340. I wouldn't use alkaline cells but you can use any battery you like as long as it can maintain the drivers required input voltage under the load.

Note: The first 2 numbers denote the battery diameter and the last 3 denote the length, such as an 18650 is 18mm wide and 65.0mm long.

To reiterate, the driver will supply any voltage the laser diode needs between 1 - 9 volts as long as your battery doesn't fall below 3 volts under load and is not over 12 volts.

What you need to do is set the driver to regulate at your desired current between 0 -1500ma ( 0 - 1.5A ) which is done by adjusting ( turning ) the potentiometer. You can learn to do this or have the seller set it for you if you don't have the tools or don't want to buy the tools to do it yourself.

p.s. Remember to always lase safely and wear your laser safety glasses.


 
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These drivers are not so much a boost driver as they are a SEPIC driver which acts to either supply a constant current or will raise the voltage at the cost of the ability to supply a high current. If you have knowledge of electronics in general you can search SEPIC and learn how that actually works.
 

Death Ray

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Thanks you guys. I think to understand now. Is there anybody that can help me when i have some doubth?

I'm also trying to make by myself these drivers. I'm sorry if i'm asking a lot of questions, the problem is that it is very hard for me to learn because most of these informations are just in english, and in my country no one teach people to make laser drivers... it sounds like illegal... expecially for class IV. So my only chance is to ask specific questions to you on this forum. I hope to don't bother anybody, but i would like to learn as long as i can improve my skills. I ve also watched videos from youtube buy as i can see not every laser driver is the same.. And most of them have different components .:(

I understand now how to choose the resistor for limit the current to the diode, but i can not understand what is the difference beetween the variable resistor and the potentiometer??? and i can not understand how to choose the black diode like "1N4001" and the capacitor... for exemple on this picture there is no potentiometer, but there is a variable resistor.... WHY????? and on youtube this guy haven't add all the components that i can see on this picture...

SO i want to understand when i need to add and why.... Can someone chat me in private for a fast conversation please? Just 5 minutes.. as long as i can solve all my doubths.. Thanks you
 

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There is no difference between a potentiometer and a variable resistor. Both are often just called pots for short. The video you supply doesn't use a pot at all and the photo uses both fixed value resistors and a pot. The reason is likely the power rating of the entire resistor conglomerate. Resistors in parallel use the formula 1/Rt = 1/R1+ 1/R2 and series resistors use the formula Rt= R1+R2. There is an electrolytic capacitor in the photo. These are used for higher value caps. Hope this helps.
 

Death Ray

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There is no difference between a potentiometer and a variable resistor. Both are often just called pots for short. The video you supply doesn't use a pot at all and the photo uses both fixed value resistors and a pot. The reason is likely the power rating of the entire resistor conglomerate. Resistors in parallel use the formula 1/Rt = 1/R1+ 1/R2 and series resistors use the formula Rt= R1+R2. There is an electrolytic capacitor in the photo. These are used for higher value caps. Hope this helps.
For a driver connected to an oclaro 638nm 0.8A working current is necessary to use a capacitor? And what about the 1N4001 on the picture?
 
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It couldn't hurt if you wanted to use a cap, but it is hardly necessary. You could also use any high speed silicon diode in place of the one they list, but I wouldn't worry if you left it out.
 
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Sure. Any laser it is able to to supply enough forward voltage and and the current you are trying to regulate.
 




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