The Dilda Family gets longer ...

[billg519]

Switch :

I don't use these DX regulators for anything too fussy. I will use a 350 ma one for a quick project based around an open can red. The 350 ma DX regulator may put out anything between 320 and 380 ma. This range won't kill an open can red, but won't give me full power either ... I do like these regulators for IR c-mount diodes. I can parallel two of the 1400 ma ones and drive a 2w 808 nm c-mount with them. They are negative side, so work perfectly with positive ground laser diodes and a positive ground host. Of course, I could just use the negative complement to the LM317 ... I have yet to kill a c-mount IR diode by using these cheap, readily available DX regulators. You shouldn't feed these more than 4.5v, or they heat up very quickly. 3 x 1.5v alkaline, or a single 4.2v lithium rechargeable work well as a power source. My 2w 808nm handheld is one of my favorite lasers. It uses 1 x 18650 and 2 x DX 1400ma regulator. Measured current to the diode is only 2.7a (should be 2.8 but these cheap regulators aren't perfect) so my diode should live a long life as it is underdriven by 100ma. My 1w 808nm handheld uses 1 x 18650 and 1 x DX1400ma regulator, another pleasing, successful laser project. These cheap regulators do have a place in a laser experimenter's parts cabinet. Besides, I do make a flashlight now and then. I used a DX 350ma to make a UV flashlight with a UV emitter from DX that needed 350ma drive.

Having said all this about DX regulators, my more involved projects usually use LM317, LM350, LM338 (or their negative complements) or I go with an opamp/comparator and low rds on mosfet type of design with a current sense resistor.

Hope this helps,


Bill.

 

[Switch]

Actually, it's why I was asking for.I've been looking into an IR build for some time now.If I actually get around doing it I may PM you with questions

 

[billg519]

Switch : Feel free to PM me, I've made quite a few IR's (handheld) in the 1 to 4 watt range. These are really great burners, once you make one, it's hard to burn with anything else. On ebay, "snoctony" still has an excellent 2w 808 nm c-mount with a long, narrow die. Seems to be a good buy, too. This diode can be collimated for burning with an aixiz glass lens. For a regulator, I used 2 x DX 1400ma, power is 1 x 18650. Mine (2w) has been used daily for many months with no problems. Although these are flashlight regulators, they seem good enough for IR laser diodes. My 1w 808 nm handheld uses 1 x DX 1400 ma, 1 x 18650. My 4w 960 nm handheld uses 2 x 25500, regulator is 3 x DX 1400ma + 1 x DX 350ma. (Also made LM338 reg for this one, both regulators worked fine, DX based one is currently installed in laser.) My 4w 808 nm handheld uses 2 x 25500, regulator is 3 x DX 1400 ma + 2 x DX 1050 ma.

 

[Spyderz20x6]

[quote author=lasersbee link=1224465471/0#7 date=1224548318][quote author=billg519 link=1224465471/0#0 date=1224465471]This weekend I made a dilda laser based on 2 x 16340 (CR123) lithium. The idea came from the other thread about the 322mw dilda, where Artix and thesk8nmidget were referring to a dilda viagra. So, I figured why not make one ...

The top laser in the photo is "la dilda viagra". It uses 2 x 16340, LM317 regulator at 380 ma, open can diode from DVD burner producing 262 mw. No aixiz housing used, all machined parts. The "business end" is anodized red. This came out wider and longer than the standard dilda.

The next laser is of course the real dilda, the DX200 red. (This one has 210 mw)

Next, we have the mini-dilda. This is a 1 x 16340, DX 350ma regulator, DVD open can diode. (245 mw)

Last, the micro-dilda. Switch is in tailcap. 1 x 16340, DX 350ma regulator, DVD open can diode. (238 mw)
This is just over half the length of the DX dilda.

Bill.

(Power measured on Lasercheck set @ 660nm, measured just prior to photo.)

If I am correct... :-? you ARE using the original RED LD that came with the Dilda....
NOT an open can Red LD like Rattlehead built (the Meg-Dilda) into a Dilda. :-/

If so... that should be mentioned... just for those that still think the Dilda LD is under specs..  :

Nice builds.... looks like a complete family... ;D ;D ;D ;D[/quote]

The dilda LD is the same as an open can except there is a can! So to mod it, well, you only need to raise the current.[/quote]
It is NOT the same. It will die at the same current we run open cans at (420mA). It is a lower power diode.