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Stretch Gatling Laser Help

GSS

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Is this a blue laser?
Either way get a piece of metal tubing and press that module out from the from the front of the host.
You have to have something in your house that has a metal tube??
A shoe rack, a broken grocery cart, etc...
 

RBreeze

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Is this a blue laser?
Either way get a piece of metal tubing and press that module out from the from the front of the host.
You have to have something in your house that has a metal tube??
A shoe rack, a broken grocery cart, etc...
Yes it’s supoosed to be 3W and maybe I got lucky cause it was very powerful before all this bs. But anyways just so I’m clear should I remove the lower half of housing first and second does the tubing have to be as wide as the copper part or just the very small center?
 

RBreeze

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Is this a blue laser?
Either way get a piece of metal tubing and press that module out from the from the front of the host.
You have to have something in your house that has a metal tube??
A shoe rack, a broken grocery cart, etc...
K so re-read one of your earlier posts to me and it looks like you were explaining that from the back of the host basically where the batteries go and connect with the spring from the driver in a normal working laser pointer situation is where I should be pressing the hollow tube I find somewhere in house to push the module out through the from of the housing, correct? And once that’s done let’s say best case scenario and pins and wires look good what is the next step and what are the correct soldering and remounting instructions? If you could help maybe walk me through that or just give me the correct steps and or connection sites or names Of what goes to what specifically I’d really owe you one. Honestly, thank you for everything either way I really do appreciate your time and patience, especially putting up with my brand new idiotic dumb Ass questions. Anyways it means a lot. Thanks again
 

GSS

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Yes press that copper piece "module/driver" out from the back just like how the batterys go in.
You don't wan't to touch the center as that's the diode and pins, that's why a hollow tube and the closer to the edges inside the better.
You might have to discharge any current or voltage in the driver before trying to re solder or you can blow the diode.
Let the better knowledged members chime in as far as the driver needs before trying to re solder.
 

RBreeze

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Yes press that copper piece "module/driver" out from the back just like how the batterys go in.
You don't wan't to touch the center as that's the diode and pins, that's why a hollow tube and the closer to the edges inside the better.
You might have to discharge any current or voltage in the driver before trying to re solder or you can blow the diode.
Let the better knowledged members chime in as far as the driver needs before trying to re solder.
[/QUOTE
Well I sincerely doubt any other members will be chiming in anytime soon after witnessing the apparent and painfully obvious issues I was having with even something as simple as uploading pictures to my posts😏🤔😒 but either way thank again. Im honestly grateful and appreciative for all of your help. It’s probably gonna be a few hrs before I can get back to working on this but once I get the mod out of the housing I’ll send you any pics I can. And hopefully I’ll hear back from yah whenever it’s most convenient for you. Anyways hope you have a good day. Thanks again.
 

GSS

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Ton's of member's have issue's with posting pic's.;) Iv'e been here since 2015 and just recently iv'e been able to post a few here and there.
No one is not going to help because of that. Some very nice members here. Most work during the day and will most likely later chime in about the best way to work with the driver. Don't get discouraged if you don't get answers right away..
Many live in different parts of the world and the time zone's come in to play.
Just wait and don't do anything before you get an answer. There's really no stupid questions if you can't understand something:), just dum mistakes if you don't know how and don't ask and this hobby isn't cheap..;)
 

RBreeze

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Ton's of member's have issue's with posting pic's.;) Iv'e been here since 2015 and just recently iv'e been able to post a few here and there.
No one is not going to help because of that. Some very nice members here. Most work during the day and will most likely later chime in about the best way to work with the driver. Don't get discouraged if you don't get answers right away..
Many live in different parts of the world and the time zone's come in to play.
Just wait and don't do anything before you get an answer. There's really no stupid questions if you can't understand something:), just dum mistakes if you don't know how and don't ask and this hobby isn't cheap..;)
Thanks man I appreciate your enthusiasm. You’re definitely a good person, and obviously naturally extremely polite. I honestly didn’t what to expect first time visiting this forum. By default after quickly glancing at the first thread that popped up cause some of the reply’s.....! Were not very encouraging to say the least. And to tell you the truth I can’t even remember what the original post was about, but some of the responses this guy was getting even for his few insignificant grammatical errors was seriously like damn! Hahahaha! But by that time I was so sick of not finding any useful information that I didn’t even care how ridiculous my question was at that point. But definitely got lucky this time with you being the one reply. Thank you bro. Super helpful.
 
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GSS

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You also seem like a very polite guy and that goes a long way in a forum..
Yup iv'e seen post's about gattling gun type lasers go way off topic and deep into just how cheap they are being they are mass produced in China with used high run diodes's and lower level parts.
Many will say to forget about it and buy something else and still might get some responses saying that. Another reason is there isn't a whole lot of aluminum for a good duty cycle and the brass module.
They do though have the "potential" to last if you run them with short bursts. Yours is rated a 3W which I doubt it is but still could of been 2W+ which is extremely strong.

If anything though, even if it's un fixable, you can still learn about something even just trying. That's why i'm trying to give some idea's on how..
 

RBreeze

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You also seem like a very polite guy and that goes a long way in a forum..
Yup iv'e seen post's about gattling gun type lasers go way off topic and deep into just how cheap they are being they are mass produced in China with used high run diodes's and lower level parts.
Many will say to forget about it and buy something else and still might get some responses saying that. Another reason is there isn't a whole lot of aluminum for a good duty cycle and the brass module.
They do though have the "potential" to last if you run them with short bursts. Yours is rated a 3W which I doubt it is but still could of been 2W+ which is extremely strong.

If anything though, even if it's un fixable, you can still learn about something even just trying. That's why i'm trying to give some idea's on how..
For sure. And I know about all the bad public and knock offs so I did a lot of research before getting this one and made sure that the specs were exact and accurate before purchasing. Or at the very least 100% confident that if anything wasn’t as exactly as listed then I was guaranteed to be covered for the cost, and if the specs were off it wasn’t because the seller was shady but because they were mistaken and not trying to pull fast one, and in that case still covered. When I first got it though I definitely thought I got took because I had know idea that the beam was supposed to rectangular. I’ve only had two other lasers and both were green and had round dots. But after Immediately consulting google to see wtf the deal was, I was super stoked to see the exact opposite of what I expected. I assumed they sent me the wrong one by accident because even the text book pic on the forum showed an example of the best blue rectangular beam they could find and it basically said to not be discouraged if my beam doesn’t compare or only resembles their pic because there’s was as close to perfect as it gets and if mine was anything even close in resemblance that I was more than good. And no lie mine was far superior in shape size and clarity. I mean for what I paid and only being able to power cycle for 45 to a minute I was lighting matches and pretty much whatever with no tripod from 15ft away no problem straight out the gate. I know that probably is nothing compared to what you seasoned vets in the game are working with but for whatever reason I seriously friggin loved the stupid thing. I wish I could send some pics or some videos without it taking a day and a half to upload them. And I know it’s probably a knock off but it’s got CNlasers engraved into the housing. And I’m not naive or stupid and not would I have even thought twice about it but the seller and Ad for this laser mentioned nothing about CNIlasers or didn’t upsell anything to do with CNI whatsoever so when I bought it I wasn’t expecting to see or have anything in relation to that. And it would’ve been significantly more expensive to begin with. So idk but maybe some of the components for their more powerful
More expensive laser pointers they sell use CNIaser parts or something? Idk for sure all I know is that there’s a million reasons to advertise that it’s a CNILASER and only one reason to not advertise that it’s a CNILASER and that reason being fraud charges because you really can’t fake something like that from
What I’ve read about the company and there products. What do you think?
 

RBreeze

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You also seem like a very polite guy and that goes a long way in a forum..
Yup iv'e seen post's about gattling gun type lasers go way off topic and deep into just how cheap they are being they are mass produced in China with used high run diodes's and lower level parts.
Many will say to forget about it and buy something else and still might get some responses saying that. Another reason is there isn't a whole lot of aluminum for a good duty cycle and the brass module.
They do though have the "potential" to last if you run them with short bursts. Yours is rated a 3W which I doubt it is but still could of been 2W+ which is extremely strong.

If anything though, even if it's un fixable, you can still learn about something even just trying. That's why i'm trying to give some idea's on how..
Pleaas help
I can’t get this fu*king module out of the housing for the life of me!! What am
I doing wrong. Are they all
Different or do the just need extreme force?!! Pleas help I’m going insane!!
 

RBreeze

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How are you trying to get it out?
Exactly how you explained it to me. I found the perfect size hollow metal tube that’s almost flush within the battery compartment housing and I just keep pushing as hard as humanly possible. 🥵
 

GSS

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Your best bet is to use a steel C clamp. It will have to be a big one at least 6 inches..
Try to borrow one if you don't have one. Some have used a stand up or bench drill as a press. The turning of a C clamp handle will put good pressure and once the module starts moving it will be easier.
Put something like a flat piece of metal on each end so you don't warp the host ends and or mangle the threads..
I hope you haven't been pounding on it much with a hammer..

Edit: Do you have a Harbor Freight Tools near you? They sell C Clamps for pretty cheap..
 

RBreeze

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Messages
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Your best bet is to use a steel C clamp. It will have to be a big one at least 6 inches..
Try to borrow one if you don't have one. Some have used a stand up or bench drill as a press. The turning of a C clamp handle will put good pressure and once the module starts moving it will be easier.
Put something like a flat piece of metal on each end so you don't warp the host ends and or mangle the threads..
I hope you haven't been pounding on it much with a hammer..

Edit: Do you have a Harbor Freight Tools near you? They sell C Clamps for pretty cheap..
Thanks. And no haven’t been hammering away just yet. But getting real close to snapping the f*ck out! And quite honestly why in the gods name don’t all modules screw in and out!!! I mean what is the point of not just taking an extra 15mjnute if even out of a build and adding that capability???! Am I like batshit crazy for suggesting or asking that question cause I feel like I’m taking crazy pills 💊 for Christ sakes!
 

GSS

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That glue they use will drive you crazy..:(
Threading in the module is just another cost saving thing and actually will probably cause more headaches with possible thread seizing and have no way to grip the module other than maby 2 pin holes..
Just be patient.. but do want to add that since the pic's we see aren't the greatest just make sure there isn't a step in the host thats keeping the module from coming out. I can't see one but still never know..
 

RBreeze

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That glue they use will drive you crazy..:(
Threading in the module is just another cost saving thing and actually will probably cause more headaches with possible thread seizing and have no way to grip the module other than maby 2 pin holes..
Just be patient..
Thanks bro but my patience is almost completely nonexistent at this point. And to be perfectly honest with you if you knew how long I’ve spent on this already you would definitely need to in barest to even be talking to me right now. It’s really pathetic I wish there was another person that had my exact problem it doesn’t even have to be the same housing quite honestly I just wish there was a video or even pictures that one start to finish it’s just insane. I wish there was another person that had my exact problem it doesn’t even have to be the same housing quite honestly I just wish there was a video or even pictures that went start to finish it’s just insane To me. I would’ve prob frigging hung myself by now if it wasn’t for your attempting to help me. 😂 I wish there was a place around me that I knew of that just repair lasers or a place I knew of that I could bring it and someone can just do the damn thing real quick because it would be well worth it.
 




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