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FrozenGate by Avery

solder/diode issue

olympus mons

olympus mons

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Nov 4, 2014
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Hey guys,
well Im back it making trouble for myself again. Im trying to remove this diode from the driver so I can press it into a module for a build. The solder wouldnt heat up even though my iron was very hot so I tried a trick that worked for me in the past of putting a small blob of solder on the tip to make better heat transfer to the pins and relase them from the driver but this happened.
solder got stuck all over the back of the diode.

2 concerns I have
1, how can I get this solder off the back of the diode without heating the hell out of the diode and damaging it?
2, Ill need to get it all off in order to be able to press the diode evenly with my diode press into the module. I have a solder sucker but its not that fine of a tip maybe 3mm.

this is an expensive diode. a 461nm. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
20150928_203902-1_zpsim0jilty.jpg
 
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Do you have a spool of solder wick material?
Use a small hot tip on your iron and keep dabbing at the solder the moment it melts to draw the heat and solder to the braided material and not the diode. Maybe rest the diode on a chilled piece of copper to draw the heat away from the diode. Watch out for creating condensation though.
https://www.google.com/search?q=solder+wick&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=solder+wick&tbm=shop
 
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Laser Chick said:
The items you listed are all items to apply solder.
Solder wick is one of several methods to use when you want to remove solder.
Please watch this video, skip to 1:58 if you want.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrAJpz9Mdm4
Click to expand...

Thats exactly what I need. Thank you for your help. I hope that blob of hot solder didnt hurt the diode already. Ill order a wick.

Any advice?
Even with the sucker I have which looked good in that video I still have to get that poor diode pretty hot. I guess I don't really have a choice. I'll have to take my chances.
Do you think that wicking material is better than the solder sucker. Sorry I forgot to list that in my reply. I do have one the same size tip as in the video.
 
Here is a better video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z38WsZFmq8E
Be sure to use clean/shiny wick material as is shown in the beginning of the second video.
Also remember to wet your iron tip for better heat transfer from the tip to the wick material and the solder joint.
What is the melt temperature of the solder you used? The wick material works almost instantly so the diode should not get very hot at all.
They both have good and bad issues and the joint itself is a factor also.
You should be able to remove all the solder without hurting the diode. Good Luck!!!
 
Thanks. I tried my sucker and got it pretty good. Hopefully I didnt damage it woth too much heat. I used a small file to level it down flush. This is a 5.6mm diode so its very hard to see even under my magnifying lamp.
Here is what I got. My only concern is that the third pin that I removed has solder all over it and hop its not making contact with the other pins.
20150928_214450-1_zpsiajxalxt.jpg
 
If you don't have to use the diode right away you might want to use wick on it after you get some to make sure any remaining solder is not bridging the pins.
 
Laser Chick said:
If you don't have to use the diode right away you might want to use wick on it after you get some to make sure any remaining solder is not bridging the pins.
Click to expand...

Okay I will do that. No hurry my buddy has been waiting since spring. Thx for the help. Rep for you.
 
Laser Chick said:
Do you have a spool of solder wick material?
Use a small hot tip on your iron and keep dabbing at the solder the moment it melts to draw the heat and solder to the braided material and not the diode. Maybe rest the diode on a chilled piece of copper to draw the heat away from the diode. Watch out for creating condensation though.
https://www.google.com/search?q=solder+wick&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=solder+wick&tbm=shop
Click to expand...

Yes use solder wick Like L Chick says it works great and if you can put he diode in a labby sink backwards with the fan on That will keep it cool while working on it.

Only one thing how the hell did you get all that solder on the casing anyway ??
Rich:)
There's enough solder there for 3 builds a little dab will do ya 2 seconds tops to to sweat a drive to the diode.
 
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Isn't that third pin just the case pin anyways? Kind of looks like it and if it is the solder won't matter unless it's touching another pin.
That was just a guess as I'm not familiar with that diode.
 
Ive used flux covered braided wire before with good luck. Essentially works the same as wick
 
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@ 10fenny that is a great idea!
If you hammer the braided wire flat it will have more direct surface area also.
 
Well, that's one way of going about it ;)

I wonder if in the very first picture the solder had actually soldered onto the laser diodes case. And by solder i mean in the technical meaning where it forms a metal mixture that then solidifies.

If it just landed on there but not actually soldered on, a far easier way to remove it would be to grip the laser diode in a vise, heat only the far end of the covered in and then just let it melt on that pin.

False joints like these are not uncommon - to get a real solder joint you need to heat up the laser diode case to 200 celcius or so, which i doubt would happen under normal conditions.
 
Laser Chick said:
@ 10fenny that is a great idea!
If you hammer the braided wire flat it will have more direct surface area also.
Click to expand...

I usually just use silicon wire from flaminpyro. just fan it out a lil bit and flux dunk it it. It is pretty rare if you need anything thicker than that. Well at least for my current uses. I know the bigger braided stuff is better for removing IC's though.
Good luck NW. You got this man!!
 
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