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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Sliver Kit From Dark Horse.

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question, if you ground it to the laser case pin, doesnt this create more heat to the laser diode?
 
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a case positive aplication would generate more heat i think... or maybe im thinking backwards... but im pretty sure i was warned about my case positive 450Ma red OC that it will get allot hotter that way...and sure enough i changed it around and vuala! cold burning laser, and it was ALWAYS warm to the touch after use. i was told to always go case negative unless the diode requires a special aplication or something weird.

someone more experienced should chime in on this matter.
 
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question, if you ground it to the laser case pin, doesnt this create more heat to the laser diode?

Hi, bennycast,
I don't think grounding the case pin is going to cause more heat, according to the
Laser pin out diagram, that pin is not used. The point of grounding it is to use it as a pathway to the negative connection to the battery so no extra wires are use.
 

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Where did you get the piece of circut board from.
:) I cut a piece from the circuit board of one of the DVD drives I took apart, I just used my dremmel tool and scraped out all the electronic components and tried to leave the other side intact, only scrapping the borders.:pop:
 
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I have a tutorial in the help and tutorial section, it's in the stickies. It's called "an alterntive to labels"
You will get all the information you need.
 
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Oct 3, 2009
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just wandering, is there an easy way of taking the guts out of the silver host? Im new to all this so dont burn me! lol
 
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just wandering, is there an easy way of taking the guts out of the silver host? Im new to all this so dont burn me! lol

I had problems with that too till I asked Dark Horse.

He let me know that there is a tiny hole on one or both of the sides of the guts, use a small sharp pointy tool and poke it in there then twist the entire guts out, it will screw out.

-Kendall
 
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Oct 11, 2008
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are, is the force of the battery pushing against the pcb which pushes against the flexdrive which is attached to the diode. If so isn't that potentially bad?
 
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use some spread out tweezers put put in the gorroves on the side of the pcb and screw it out. once you get that out the rest should just fall out.

the groove on the bottom of the sink is made for a 17mm pcb. me and D_H found that was the easiest way to make + contact with the batts when we were working out the bugs for a build i did a while back. you can get the 17mm pcb's from DX in the DIY flashlight section...

p.s. you can see pics of one of my sliver builds here:

http://laserpointerforums.com/f52/dark-horse-customs-38014.html
 
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