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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Sharp 515nm laser in T-DRAGON host.

Joined
Jul 19, 2018
Messages
116
Points
28
Hello everyone. I had built my first ever laser pointer with the flashlight host. The laser I did use is GH05130B2G. I got this laser from Chinese Laser Company for just $6. and these pictures below are built yesterday before I go to the bed.

Kayzr1k.jpg


This is what it looks like !

SszXJDj.jpg


I tested the tailcap switch has no problem. But the spring can't reach the battery .

Zvd2J0g.jpg


So I use a piece of copper to extend the touching surface to reach the battery.

3dQj9HV.jpg


Unfortunately I don't have 14500 battery. So I adapt the 10440 to be usable and it works ! (That is why the spring can't react the battery).

XhFKqaN.jpg


I use electrical tape to make it fits the tube.

zVqzJ3U.jpg


This is the head part of the laser. Let's take a look inside (WARNING: This may looks shitty but I will improve soon)

ljPv4yC.jpg


I removed switch from the laser driver (Originally from my LL 510nm laser pointer)
and bypass the current driver of LED. So it won't limit the current to my laser.

I have an idea to improve this a lot !
like make the laser head more center , Use the 10440 to 14500 battery adapter , use the better driver and make it secure and in place.

Here is one of the beam shot. I don't have the smoke generator and the BETTER HAL (Camera software in my phone ).

E6a40Fo.jpg


I did the duration test and the result is
ON: 16.3 sec
OFF: 1-2 sec

Here are some beam shot ;D

8VcAgxGh.jpg


3jUMuqgh.jpg


HMnvaOdh.jpg


kxqbIOsh.jpg


OaAGU3Ch.jpg



I hope you don't feel awkward when reading my thread xD
 
Last edited:





GSS

0
Joined
Apr 28, 2015
Messages
5,069
Points
113
Nice:)
(y)great improvising. I would be careful of what looks like a sheet of copper that you added to the tail cap but again it's not the strongest of lasers..
 
Joined
Jul 19, 2018
Messages
116
Points
28
Thanks. Soon will use the battery adapter instead of tape around the battery and the copper piece. Recently I added the thermal paste to the driver.
 

Sumfinclever

Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2018
Messages
69
Points
18
Nice job TinLethax; I really like compact builds like this :-D. Looks like you were determined, and dealt with challenges effectively. Where some people see problems, others see solutions.

I wanted to ask which lens you used. Also was curious how well the finished pointer dissipates heat. You mentioned duration of 16.2 seconds. Was that how long it takes to heat up? Then one last question, which flashlight host is that?
 
Joined
Jul 19, 2018
Messages
116
Points
28
Nice job TinLethax; I really like compact builds like this :-D. Looks like you were determined, and dealt with challenges effectively. Where some people see problems, others see solutions.

I wanted to ask which lens you used. Also was curious how well the finished pointer dissipates heat. You mentioned duration of 16.2 seconds. Was that how long it takes to heat up? Then one last question, which flashlight host is that?

The lens I did use the 3 element lens. It's actually for thr 450nm but other acrylic lenses had the scraches on the lens. First time I want to use the acrylic lens because this laser when collimate with 3E the dot will come along with the square shaped like 488nm laser.
View attachment Webp.net-compress-image.jpg

about the heat dissipates .. Hmmm.... The laser housing made from brass (originally from my 510nm laser pointer). The driver just use some thermal paste puts on the boost chip.It's takes about 10 to 13 seconds to feel "warm".I also adjusted (lower) the pot. After that my laser last more than 1 minute (Because of heat, I can't push the driver more. It's takes about 600mA and rise up slowly when turn the pot max).

About the flashlight. My Grand-mom gave me 2 of these. It labeled T-DRAGON 15W JM-1502. Unfortunately I can't find any infomation online. I will take the picture one for you

View attachment 20190322_221938.jpg
 
Joined
Sep 20, 2013
Messages
17,402
Points
113
You might want to consider using a heat sink for your module in the flashlight host. They can be made from either aluminum or copper and will help keep the module from overheating. Most use a set screw to hold the module in place against the inner wall of the heat sink. This will become more necessary as you use higher power diodes.
 





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