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Sea Sick Green 1W 525nm Build

Sumfinclever

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Nov 23, 2018
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Not sure where I first saw the stainless sea sick (c6) hosts, but I love the look of them, and have been wanting to build in one ever since. So a few months ago, I ordered a pair of them, figuring I would get around to using them eventually. The other item on my want-to-do list was building a 1W direct green handheld. I think a big factor in waiting so long to build one was diode prices. I would loved to have used one of the NDG7475 diodes, but for the same reason, went with a De-canned NUGM03 instead. I've experimented with a few different lenses so far, but so far prefer the beam produced by a 3E glass lens. I still just cant get over the brilliance of this color at this power level. Even next to a more powerful 445nm blue (3rd pic), the visibility is stunning.

I love the challenge of building in tiny hosts such as penlights and single cell compact flashlights. The wow factor of the finished product is amplified that much more when it's effectively contained in such a small package. That said, this one REALLY tested my patience. The most challenging part of this build for me was battery fitment. This host originally used a single 18650, but the buck driver pushing this diode requires twin cells. Ended up using a pair of button top 16340s as they were the closest thing I had to half the length of a 19650. A few millimeters make a huge difference so I ended up having to modify the negative contact, spring, and back half of the heatsink to make enough room. Still need roughly 2mm more clearance to get the host sections to sit completely flush. Pretty sure that problem will be solved by switching to flat-top cells instead of these protected ones, but we shall see.
 

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Joined
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im so glad greens have gone down in price over the months, DTRs prices are just unbeatable! love the build by the way, im thinking of doing a NUGM03 soon because theyre inexpensive :) what current are you running it at?
 

Sumfinclever

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Nov 23, 2018
Messages
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I'm actually not 100% sure what the current is set to. I opted for a pre-pressed/soldered 20mm module w/driver from DTR for simplicity sake on this one. I left the pot exactly how it was when he sent it, but perhaps he can chime in with details.
 
Joined
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I'm actually not 100% sure what the current is set to. I opted for a pre-pressed/soldered 20mm module w/driver from DTR for simplicity sake on this one. I left the pot exactly how it was when he sent it, but perhaps he can chime in with details.
oh okay, that's actually what I do as well, I don't normally mess with current. Jordan definitely knows what hes doing so youre in good company :)
 

Sumfinclever

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The way I figured, if I'm paying for the convenience of a pre-assembled module, intentionally complicating things by taking it apart makes little sense lol
 
Joined
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The way I figured, if I'm paying for the convenience of a pre-assembled module, intentionally complicating things by taking it apart makes little sense lol
yeah I couldn't agree with you more. I alsmost wouldn't know what to do without DTR. its like im a lost puppy without him because my soldering skills are terrible, especially when soldering wires to the actual diode lol!!
 

reloader45

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Mar 17, 2019
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Hello,

what means De-canned NUGM03?
I have seen this diodes with ball lense on Ebay. Do you remove only the ball lense or the complete metal housing?
I have a green 520 nm laser with approx. 600 mW Output, but I would like to build a green laser pointer with 1W+.
So this Diode would be fine.

best regards

Edgar
 

Sumfinclever

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Joined
Nov 23, 2018
Messages
69
Points
18
...what means De-canned NUGM03?
I have seen this diodes with ball lense on Ebay. Do you remove only the ball lense or the complete metal housing?...

Reloader45, you're actually right on the money with your questions. De-canned means the ball lens is removed along with the metal sleeve (can) that it's mounted to. This allows it to be collimated with your choice of lens, such as the G2, DTR-G8, or 3E (3 element AR coated). While you can use the ball lens to get a somewhat decently focused point/line, the distance between the ball lens and diode can't be adjusted. Ergo, you can't change the focus, so any dreams of sparking doobies with a lightsaber go up in smoke (pun intended) unless you de-can them.

The NUGM03 has exceeded my expectations in this case, in terms of both performance and cost. I would say if you're wanting to build a 1W green handheld using a direct diode, it's a fine choice. That said, there are "better" diodes out there, but they can cost double or more what this one goes for.

On that note, I decided to go ahead and sell this laser to recoup costs and start a new build. If you think you might be interested or want to talk more about building one yourself, shoot me a message and I'll reply when I get a chance.
 

Biggie Cheese

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Nov 19, 2018
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That's a really nice build, the host you used is pretty cool! I have parts for a very similar build using the NUGM03 on its way, and its going to run on 2A . I couldn't resist buying a 1W green laser diode when the price got that low haha.

Based on your pics it is seems slightly brighter than what I thought it was going to be, so i'm pretty excited right now (y).
 

Sumfinclever

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Nov 23, 2018
Messages
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Hey man, thanks for the input, I appreciate it! This stainless host is referred to as the C6. This is the 18650 size, but there's a 14500/AA version as well.

If you haven't seen a 1W green in person, or really anything north of 500mw, you're in for a real treat. It's unreal just how bright they appear, even next to a different color with 3 or 4 times the output power.
 

reloader45

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Mar 17, 2019
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Hello,

i have a 520 nm diode 750 mW. At the moment i use a chinese buck/bust driver. So the diode is driven with approx. 1200 mA.
Tomorrow i will change it to a buck driver and drive ist with 1800 mA. That will give 800 mW output with a lense.

How do you de-cann the diode, in a lathe?


best regards

Edgar
 

Sumfinclever

Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2018
Messages
69
Points
18
Hello,

i have a 520 nm diode 750 mW. At the moment i use a chinese buck/bust driver. So the diode is driven with approx. 1200 mA.
Tomorrow i will change it to a buck driver and drive ist with 1800 mA. That will give 800 mW output with a lense.

How do you de-cann the diode, in a lathe?


best regards

Edgar

I hate to be "that guy" but someone is bound to say it if I don't. This would be a great time to familiarize yourself with the search bar and see if you can find that information within the forums. There's a wealth of information there, just waiting to be found. De-canning is a subject that has been discussed in detail by folks a lot more knowledgeable than myself. I'm sure you and I both would like to see you get the best answer possible, so that's where I would recommend starting your research. Best of luck!
 

reloader45

Active member
Joined
Mar 17, 2019
Messages
172
Points
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Hello,

I think, that is the problem with all new members. I joined a german forum since it started. So I knew very well what problems were discussed in the past. Sometimes the search function is not very comfortable to find the right answers.

best regards

Edgar
 





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