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FrozenGate by Avery
romisen L-D030
- Thread starter blindbill
- Start date
IgorT
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- Oct 24, 2007
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I have two.. I only bought the first one for the body (the heatsink), and when i got it, it was doing 14mW, instantly dropping to 7mW.
I opened a ticket, and since the shipping back was more than 30% of the price, they just sent me a new one. This one starts at 17mW and sometimes climbs to 23mW as it warms up, and other times it stays under 20mW..
The heatsink is not really functional. The module is separated from the body by a spring and a thin gap. It barelly touches the aluminum body here and there..
I used the first one to put in a module from one of the rare good DX200 pens i had. I changed it a little to get it fully heatsinked. But then i noticed something interesting. The more i heatsinked it, the lower the power i got.
They intentionally use bad heatsinking, so that the crystals heat up faster, and the power peaks higher. Unfortunatelly, it drops shortly after the peak for the same reason. When i heatsinked it completelly, the body got warm, but the power climbed slowly - all the heat went into the body, and the crystals took longer to reach optimal efficiency.
It took some tweaking, to get the right level of heatsinking, so that the power is both high and stable. At the moment, it's a very nice 130mW laser...
Oh, and the original laser has a horrible flaw! The driver PCB is not supported at all, and the pushbutton is directly on the PCB. Every time you press the button, you bend the driver down! Eventually it gets so bent, that you can't press the button anymore..
There is some foam under it for "support". It could just as well not even be there. With most of these Rominsen lasers, you have to put something under the driver, so this doesn't happen. Otherwise, the legs of the diode take all the stress.
Otherwise, the current draw in this laser is around 270-300mA. The current is somewhat regulated, but not perfectly. But you can use 3.6V CR123s. The current only goes up by 30mA or so.. The 3.6V CR123 is supposed to have 800mAh, so it should work for around 2 hours.
As far as i know, the CR2 30mW is better. Even the KD50 is better. When good, a KD50 does up to 74mW. The worst i've seen did 28mW.
I opened a ticket, and since the shipping back was more than 30% of the price, they just sent me a new one. This one starts at 17mW and sometimes climbs to 23mW as it warms up, and other times it stays under 20mW..
The heatsink is not really functional. The module is separated from the body by a spring and a thin gap. It barelly touches the aluminum body here and there..
I used the first one to put in a module from one of the rare good DX200 pens i had. I changed it a little to get it fully heatsinked. But then i noticed something interesting. The more i heatsinked it, the lower the power i got.
They intentionally use bad heatsinking, so that the crystals heat up faster, and the power peaks higher. Unfortunatelly, it drops shortly after the peak for the same reason. When i heatsinked it completelly, the body got warm, but the power climbed slowly - all the heat went into the body, and the crystals took longer to reach optimal efficiency.
It took some tweaking, to get the right level of heatsinking, so that the power is both high and stable. At the moment, it's a very nice 130mW laser...
Oh, and the original laser has a horrible flaw! The driver PCB is not supported at all, and the pushbutton is directly on the PCB. Every time you press the button, you bend the driver down! Eventually it gets so bent, that you can't press the button anymore..
There is some foam under it for "support". It could just as well not even be there. With most of these Rominsen lasers, you have to put something under the driver, so this doesn't happen. Otherwise, the legs of the diode take all the stress.
Otherwise, the current draw in this laser is around 270-300mA. The current is somewhat regulated, but not perfectly. But you can use 3.6V CR123s. The current only goes up by 30mA or so.. The 3.6V CR123 is supposed to have 800mAh, so it should work for around 2 hours.
As far as i know, the CR2 30mW is better. Even the KD50 is better. When good, a KD50 does up to 74mW. The worst i've seen did 28mW.
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2007
- Messages
- 682
- Points
- 28
I do not have any experience with the L-D030, but it is really tough to beat its "sibling", the L-030, for value- http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11047 . I have bought a total of 10 of these for my friends and myself, all have about the same output, around 20-27mW, with about 5mW more in IR, nice beam-specs too. The batteries last forever, probably a couple of hours total, but that is like a month for me. I did receive one with a faulty switch, it was on all of the time, quick fix. the down-side is they are very popular and usually take quite a while to ship. Also, be careful of the lens, I had a friend that got his really dirty, when I tried to clean with my lens-pen, it messed up the anti-reflective coating, causing quite a bit of "flare" around the dot. You can avoid this danger by either installing a small (17.5mm)-glass lens in front of the laser head, also available on DX, or you can upgrade to its bigger brother, the L-B030, http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.10557. this one has about the same power and beam-specs, but it has a glass-lens in front of the laser-aperture. At first I thought this was bad and I was going to remove it, but according to my meter, I only lost 1mW by having it in there and it meant I could clean this outer-lens with a shirt-tail after it had spent a week in my coat-pocket, really durable. Like I say, I have since added this lens to all of my L-030's as well, available here: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.10640 . These lenses are just a little big and need to be sanded lightly around the edge with some sand paper until they drop-in.
I hope some of this helps with your purchase
I hope some of this helps with your purchase
IgorT
0
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2007
- Messages
- 4,177
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- 0
Yeah, LensPen and cheap plastic lenses are a bad combination...
I completelly ruined a KD50 lens with my LensPen, even tho it's uncoated..
Rominsen at least uses coated lenses, but the power is really sad in the ones i got.
But i never have luck with cheap green lasers. Sometimes not even with expensive ones...
I completelly ruined a KD50 lens with my LensPen, even tho it's uncoated..
Rominsen at least uses coated lenses, but the power is really sad in the ones i got.
But i never have luck with cheap green lasers. Sometimes not even with expensive ones...Dark_Horse said:
I got the romisen L-030 its rules but the exposed cheap lens its a major con, I'm surprised that the manufacture didn't think about install a simple glass lens for protection. Can you help me install the lens on my laser? I would like to know where the lens fit and how I do sand it, I'd like to see pics too.