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RGB Mixer setup

daguin

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I understand now. So with the lasers I listed if I just play around with the power I would be able to get white correct? Also what is a better alternative to MDF. Are those Combining mirrors good? or is there a better alternative? Sorry for so many questions. You just know everything :bowdown:
Yes. You will have to adjust the lasers to get the mix right. The dichros and the lasers will affect the ultimate mix. That's why I put ~ on the measurements.

As I said, it would be better if they were three-way rather than just two-way. However, that type of mount is what you want.

After you get this all together, you can add a fairly simple lumia wheel to make it a "show."


Thanks Swamidog

Peace,
dave

**EDIT** -- I just realized that you were asking about the mirrors themselves. For your application now, they will be fine. You will probably lose some of the green and blue so be ready to turn down your red ;)
I already recommended that you use an aluminum plate for the base
 
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I have no clue what a lumia wheel is.
Yes. You will have to adjust the lasers to get the mix right. The dichros and the lasers will affect the ultimate mix. That's why I put ~ on the measurements.

As I said, it would be better if they were three-way rather than just two-way. However, that type of mount is what you want.

After you get this all together, you can add a fairly simple lumia wheel to make it a "show."


Thanks Swamidog

Peace,
dave

**EDIT** -- I just realized that you were asking about the mirrors themselves. For your application now, they will be fine. You will probably lose some of the green and blue so be ready to turn down your red ;)
I already recommended that you use an aluminum plate for the base
 

LaserAdct

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MDF works fine for this. Its a composite material which contains no moist so nothing will change the shape of it unless you get it wet, but why on earth would you want water near your rgb setup anyway :p You already saw my setup with MDF and trust me it works perfectly. No need to buy an expensive plate imho. For others check my album or the heatsink thread in my sig to see my implementation on an mdf board.

EDIT: Using an MDF the way I suggested is for the lasers and mirror mounts only, not the complete projector base, if that is what you are making. When the setup I made is going into my projector the MDF base with the lasers will be mounted on the projector alu base plate ofc.
 
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qumefox

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A lumia wheel is pretty much just a textured piece of glass or plastic slowly rotating.

Here's a very... er 'ghetto' example that I rigged up. I haven't as of yet come up with a rotational mechanism that turns slowly enough though.

 
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So just to clarify with you pros. All three of the lasers I listed have power adjustment knobs? That way I can mix colors with ease?
 

qumefox

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The ebay green doesn't have any knobs. It just supports analog and TTL modulation. I don't know about the o-like lasers since I can't get to their site at the moment, but I doubt they do either.

You still need to drive the modulation circuit. Like I said before, with analog, it's easy since you just need 5V and some pots to vary the input voltage to the modulation. with TTL you'd need to build PWM circuits to do it.
 
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Im so lost. I know the 1w red has a power knob. Idk about the other two.
The ebay green doesn't have any knobs. It just supports analog and TTL modulation. I don't know about the o-like lasers since I can't get to their site at the moment, but I doubt they do either.

You still need to drive the modulation circuit. Like I said before, with analog, it's easy since you just need 5V and some pots to vary the input voltage to the modulation. with TTL you'd need to build PWM circuits to do it.
 

LaserAdct

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If I understand you correct your need for adjusting is to mix the colors so you get white? That means its a 1 time adjustment. If that is the case then you should be set with the lasers you have choosen. The drivers probably have potmeters to adjust the current. This way you can set the ratio once and never think about it again (until your lasers degrade to a point where you need to turn up/down the current to get the white balance back). I write probably because of the fact that drivers can be made that does not allow for adjusting. In lab laser modules like you have found this is a must and if not present, a major flaw imho. The specs on the blue laser sais the current can be adjusted. The specs of the red does not say so, but the picture of the driver shows a potmeter on the pcb, this is most likely for current adjustment. You can get a lot more info about the red if you contact o-like. There is no info on current adjustment for the green ebay laser.

A lumina wheel creates a stunning effect like you can see, but its not really relevant for a RGB setup. Meaning that there is no point in combining the beams before using a lumina wheel, so if you want to make an effect like that you can save yourself some cash since you dont need dichros or mirror mounts.
 
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