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FrozenGate by Avery

Red DIY DVD laser burner.

Don't feel bad...I don't know why open cans are so fragile but the last one I harvested from a 112D was also a poor excuse for an LED. I got two more 112D's today and hope I have better luck.
 





Aside from the nuisance of getting mine out of the heatsink, the open-can I got from a 112D has been working like a champ no matter how I've abused it. I did put tape over it while I was harvesting it, to keep any debris from getting in though.
 
how did you guys extract it. i just put it in a vice and pushed it out, it is actually easier to extract an open can because you can push on the diode mount and not crush the can. i think it must have been the heat, i went a bit overboard soldering capacitors and diodes directly to the laser.
and i did manage to extract the IR diode, it burns black stuff at 160mA, i am not sure how far to push it though.
 
Kenom said:
Excellent job!! Need to drive that Aixiz in there a bit deeper to have it flush. It's only asthetics tho.
Thanks Ken! Actually, the module sticks out intentionally as I had a hard time focusing when it was flush.
 
I can't find that Mini Dorcy anywhere up here in Canada. I did find the 1W Dorcy that uses 3xAAA batts. I opened it up and the driver looks identical to the Mini Dorcy. Will I still be able to use this? And should I use the 47uF capacitor? I'm having a hell of a time taking off the lense. I'm not sure how it's mounted in there.

It looks like this:
 

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woop said:
how did you guys extract it. i just put it in a vice and pushed it out, it is actually easier to extract an open can because you can push on the diode mount and not crush the can. i think it must have been the heat, i went a bit overboard soldering capacitors and diodes directly to the laser.
and i did manage to extract the IR diode, it burns black stuff at 160mA, i am not sure how far to push it though.

I think I will try to push it out with a vice next time if I can find something to go behind it...perhaps a small socket will do the trick.
 
One of the few places I have seen Dorcy flashlights in Canada is in the Home Hardware chain.

Hellcat said:
I can't find that Mini Dorcy anywhere up here in Canada. I did find the 1W Dorcy that uses 3xAAA batts. I opened it up and the driver looks identical to the Mini Dorcy. Will I still be able to use this? And should I use the 47uF capacitor? I'm having a hell of a time taking off the lense. I'm not sure how it's mounted in there.

It looks like this:
 
I picked this up at Sears. Not to many places to get hardware stuff in downtown Vancouver.

I figured out how to pop the lense off! I put the bottom of the reflector ot top of a cd spndle andgave it a good wack! Popped off nicely :)

I'll try out this as a host tonite if I have time and I'll post the results!
 
before you go and tear into it much further for modification. Test the driver and see what it's putting out current wise with the included led. it should be in the range of 350ma give or take.
 
Quick question. There's a thin rubber ring around the top, inside of the dorcy head, where the plastic lens cover pops into place. Should I remove this rubber ring when fitting my own plastic cover cut-out, or am I suppost 2 leave it in there? Thanks
 
While focusing the beam to the smallest dot possible, I noticed (through my goggles) that the dot is not at all circular but more "crescent moon" in shape. Is this the way it should look? Also, even though I'm able to easily pop balloons and ignite matches, I'm not able to cut through black PVC tape as I've seen others do. It will start to smoke the tape after a while and also burn tiny holes in black plastic bags. At 215 ma current draw, I assumed the laser would be outputting enough energy to do so. Any ideas Guys? Thanks.
 
trist-10 said:
Quick question. There's a thin rubber ring around the top, inside of the dorcy head, where the plastic lens cover pops into place. Should I remove this rubber ring when fitting my own plastic cover cut-out, or am I suppost 2 leave it in there? Thanks

The only purpose of that O-ring is to make the fit tighter for the plastic cover. If it benefits you by making it tighter then leave it there. (i've got a few that it's good cause it keeps the heatsink from passing through the head) but if it doesn't make any difference one way or the other then take it out. Most of mine don't need the O-ring as the black plastic clips on the bottom actually prevent the whole assembly from coming out of the head (that's it's purpose along with holding the star in place nicely.
 
"I am now grounded."
"Your grounded?"
"Um, a different type of grounded."

:P

I am going to attempt this.
 
I guess you can't assume anything with these LD's. As I've read so many times on this forum, every one is slightly different. The last one that I killed due to crossed leads, was drawing 215 ma from the same setup I am still using (Mini Dorcy driver plus cap and current limiting 3.9 Ohm resistor. The new LD is only drawing 195 ma which explains why it seems to be under-performing. I'd like to crank it up to 215 or even 225 ma draw. Still safe for the LD?
 
You bet. I use a 3.2 ohm resistor in mine. but you could even go with a 2.5 ohm resistor.
 
HMMMMM!!! Very interesting and tempting Ken. I will experiment! As it is now, it pops Sharpied balloons and lights matches almost instantly. Burns holes in thin black bags. But it won't do anything to black PVC tape except make it smoke. Still, a great laser!!! Last night, I saw a nice red beam pointed to the sky.
 


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