Quick Pictorial Review: Super Beast Green #100 006

[csshih]

Hello All,

I recently got this cheap ~25$ laser in the mail, and thought to post some quick pictures about it. A picture is worth a thousand words, no?
No, I do not have any divergence measurements, nor do I have balloon popping pictures. I bought this just to fool around with.

This one I got from the bay from the itemquickship guy - check this thread for more info and LPF discount: http://laserpointerforums.com/f45/super-beast-green-58383.html

At the time, I do not have a LPM anymore - sorry about that! Previous member tests place this laser at 80+mW, conservative.

here we see a very simple host - no safety features, just a simple on/off.

tailcap and head removed. there was some slight glue in the threads on the head. the tailcap contact itself is just a chunk of alu- nothing fancy, no springs. Please note that this laser, like most 532 lasers, is case Positive, meaning you insert the battery backwards.

retaining ring removed - there was some glue on those threads, too. nothing too hard to get out, it's not even loctite, just simple adhesive.

the driver and diode assembly pushes right out after retaining ring removal.

nice brass heatsink with an aluminum base. the laser does indeed heat up, but heatsinking travels solely through that aluminum ring - not as efficient but it'll do.

there's your driver, and the potentiometer. no need for pot modding here, I'm perfectly happy!

the lens and crystal assembly is in a plastic housing, held on by some glue of some sort. Please read this excellent guide by goninanblood for a thorough explanation on how DPSS 532nm lasers work.
http://laserpointerforums.com/f44/dpss-primer-how-lasers-work-59797.html

Finally, a view of the back of the diode. you can see the leads of the 808nm can there.

Obligatory beamshots:

there is a little bit of mode hopping on startup, but it stabilizes after it warms up.

yes, it appears I have a disorganized room.

Of course, I do NOT recommend you use a laser like this indoors without proper safety gear. this is NOT a laser to be giving out to young kids and it will damage your vision.

Stay safe, and thank you for reading.

 

[Bobby]

Re: Quick Pictorial Review: 532 Super #100 006

I bought one of these after buying the predecessor (Super Beast 005); see sampson's thread (linked in OP above).

Mine tested at 165mW (!!) continuous, and was going strong until I got greedy and ran it continuously for 2-3 mins trying to pop a balloon at ~20' (it was popping easily at 4'). It started to dim, then died. I was too dumb to let it rest, so kept trying to get it working again. Long story/short: it went dim-dot (<2mW) from then on.

So, as long as you don't get greedy, this little guy will serve you well!

BTW, does anyone have any suggestions for replacing the pressure-clicky with an on/off clicky? Both of mine are a little flaky, and you have to hold them really tightly to keep the beam at full power ... I'd love to replace that power button!

 

[csshih]

Re: Quick Pictorial Review: 532 Super #100 006

hmm - not much space in there and you can't just short the momentary switch on the driver and replace the tailcap.. there is no easy way to do it, sorry.

 

[extremeodd]

Since you have a good camera you should remove the black lens bit (the glue is barely holding it, mine spun no problem) and get some good shots of the crystals. I was thinking of epoxying around the metal heatsink/holder for the crystals so its less likely to break loose when dropped. Also great shots of it taken apart, I was wondering if the laser was held in via retaining ring or not which you answered.

 

[Bobby]

Re: Quick Pictorial Review: 532 Super #100 006

hmm - not much space in there and you can't just short the momentary switch on the driver and replace the tailcap.. there is no easy way to do it, sorry.

Ignorance speaking here -- why not short / clip out the momentary switch?

 

[csshih]

Since you have a good camera you should remove the black lens bit (the glue is barely holding it, mine spun no problem) and get some good shots of the crystals. I was thinking of epoxying around the metal heatsink/holder for the crystals so its less likely to break loose when dropped. Also great shots of it taken apart, I was wondering if the laser was held in via retaining ring or not which you answered.

thinking about it! but then the crystal assembly would be a pain to realign. hm...

Ignorance speaking here -- why not short / clip out the momentary switch?

then you'll have a laser that's always on unless you add another switch into the circuit. There really is no space for a on/off switch in the body.

 

[Bobby]

I was actually thinking that the end-cap could be replaced, but if not, what about replacing the button with a toggle?

 

[lazeerer]

Since you have a good camera you should remove the black lens bit (the glue is barely holding it, mine spun no problem) and get some good shots of the crystals. I was thinking of epoxying around the metal heatsink/holder for the crystals so its less likely to break loose when dropped. Also great shots of it taken apart, I was wondering if the laser was held in via retaining ring or not which you answered.

Do you plan on Dropping your laser alot.?

Why would you ask for him to take picture if you already have taken yours apart.?

Something doesn't sound Right.:thinking:

thinking about it! but then the crystal assembly would be a pain to realign. hm...

I would highly suggest you don't try this. There is no point in doing so and most likely you will break your working laser.:tsk:

Great Picture by the way. +1

 

[csshih]

I was actually thinking that the end-cap could be replaced, but if not, what about replacing the button with a toggle?

on the driver? that would't fit, but if you could replace the end cap with one with a switch, and short out the switch on the driver, that'd be a way to do it.

the problem is finding a replacement endcap.. :can:

 

[jimmyeE007]

does anyone know the duration on/off cycle? i just bought one of these as well. just want my laser to last at least 4999hours. haha

 

[Bobby]

IQS says 1 min max, 30sec better for max run, with 1-2 mins rest between runs. See the original Super Beast Green link at the top, and my posts within - mine was 165mW and I killed it.

 

[extremeodd]

Do you plan on Dropping your laser alot.?

Why would you ask for him to take picture if you already have taken yours apart.?

Something doesn't sound Right.:thinking:




I would highly suggest you don't try this. There is no point in doing so and most likely you will break your working laser.:tsk:

Great Picture by the way. +1

Well not everyone has seen underneath the lens to see the crystals, since his camera does good macro shots I thought maybe he could take a pic for everyone to see. I dont plan on dropping this laser, but who plans on dropping em? Stuff happens, they can roll off a table, slip from your hands, etc!

Also taking off the lens wont affect the crystals, they are glued in place so there would be no need to realign nothing. I was just thinking of adding some additional epoxy just in case of it getting dropped to make it a bit more solid.

 

[Bobby]

As promised, please see my IQS Roundup. I'm still trying to figure out the picture-links.

 

[lazeerer]

Well not everyone has seen underneath the lens to see the crystals, since his camera does good macro shots I thought maybe he could take a pic for everyone to see. I dont plan on dropping this laser, but who plans on dropping em? Stuff happens, they can roll off a table, slip from your hands, etc!

Also taking off the lens wont affect the crystals, they are glued in place so there would be no need to realign nothing. I was just thinking of adding some additional epoxy just in case of it getting dropped to make it a bit more solid.

I see, There is Usually a lens infront of the Crystal that is not removable without damaging it. SO you wont be able to take a clear shot of the Crystal itself.
If you interested in what a Crystal looks like then here is a Picture i took of one of my Crystals.:

Top View:

Bottom View:

Here is a Picture what iam talking about that most Green laser like this have a lens on top of the Crystal itself and then another one after that. The one after that is the one you can Screw Off:

Hope this Helpd anyone curious to see what everything looks like without trying to take apart there laser and Break it as these Green laser usally have the same module setup as in all cheap Green laser.

 

[Ion]

Do you know if the aluminum ring comes off?