Questions about 445 2W diodes.

[highvoltagefeathers]

HI!
New to the forum,
I'm starting my third project, a flashlight host, using an 18650 3.6v Li-ion, a single, heavily "heatsunk" microflexdrive, and of course a well established and cooled 445nm 1.7-2W diode.

Questions:

1: I have a dummy load consisting of 6 IN4001 diodes and a 10W, 1ohm resistor all in series. How do I connect my multimeter (no current function), and what kindof numbers am I looking for to ensure I am driving the diode properly?

2: Concerning the microflexdrive. There are several current ranges, and a potentiometer to adjust the current within these ranges.
What I don't understand is how can one be sure that the current and voltage are correct? Will I be able to drive the diode (which from my understanding, runs at around 4v) with a battery that maxxes out at 3.6 volts?

Any comments, answers, questions or concerns welcome,

Thanks All!

Feathers

 

[DTR]

These diodes a rated 1W from the manufacturer but are over driven to possibly 2W+ depending on individual diode efficiency. With a single flexdrive you will be able to drive the diode @ 1.5A. That will give you in the range of 1.2W-1.4W with an Aixiz three element glass or 1.4W-1.6W with a G-1/G-2 lens. If you are going to run your flexdrive over 1A check out this thread for ideas on how to sink it.
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/f...-driver-duty-cycle-1-5a-56404.html#post796360

Your 18650 is 4.2V fully charged 3.7V nominal. Max input is 5.5V on the flexdrive.

Yes you will want to bridge all the four resistors to get the top range of the flexdrive. I just do a quick swipe across the resistors with a blob on my iron. Like this.

 

[highvoltagefeathers]

So I set the current to max on the flexdrive and the voltage and current will take care of themselves?
Makes sense, that drive WAS designed to make our lives easier.
So at max current setting, do I even need bother adjusting the potentiometer on the front of the board?

I have a module with a G-2 glass lens ready and waiting!

And I'll take a good look at that thread on heatsinking the flexdrive.

Thanks!!

Feathers

 

[highvoltagefeathers]

I took a look at your thread and the coin-style-heatsink is pretty ingenius.
Do you use a two-part thermal adhesive, like epoxy style?
Depending on how much room I have left in my host, I might just turn a big aluminum bulkhead to space the driver/laser from the battery, and heatsink the driver.
I'm going to be taking a look at that thread quite a bit now, my build is basically the same with a different host, and you seem to know what your doing!

Thanks again!

Feathers

 

[DTR]

I have been using the Arctic Alumina two part thermal adhesive lately. I used to use the much more expensive Arctic Silver but the porcine base seems to work just as well and costs 40% of what the silver version does.:beer:

Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive (Two Tube Set). | Cool PC Inc. DBA Coolerguys

 

[chipdouglas]

also your diodes for your dummy load are only rated for 1 amp. so unless you can tune your flex drive quickly you will need to get 3 amp rated diodes.

also, since the flexdrive, even at it's max setting is unlikely to kill your LD you could just hook it up straight to the LD. you won't know the power unless you have a LPM though.

michael.