PHR803 at 150ma?

[kcscott11]

with a good heat sink is is this safe? what duty cycle should i use? Approximately what mw would it be? also im using a rckstr driver and i was wondering if i could use 3 cr123 at 9v...? i have a perfect host to use 3 of these and put everything else in!!

 

[k-shell]

the first one i built i just went with 150ma and it worked for one cycle, then it stopped...

my second build i started at 115ma for a day or two then went to 150ma. and it works wonders!

maybe the first diode was just weak????

anyway i got
110mW at 115ma
120mW at 135ma
130mW at 150ma

Duty cycles range from 10 to 60 seconds

 

[Jimmymcjimthejim]

150mA is going into the risky zone, I would recommend staying around 130 for the safe zone. Remember, all diodes are different and some will die earlier. If you provide adequate heatsinking, then I guess 150mA is Ok.

 

[thesk8nmidget]

i run most my 803t's at 150 and get away with good couple minute duty cycles. just be sure to use a good thermal compound on your heat transferring contact points and be careful with exposing the diode to to much heat when soldering

 

[Glaserfan]

Mine has been running at 150mA, NO heatsink, and 1-2 minute duty cycles for over 2 months now. It has never gotten beyond 90 degress F. It also has at least 5 hours runtime on it. I guess it all depends on the particular diode....

 

[wicked1]

I've had one at 150 for about 10 seconds, no real heatsink to say, but pressed into the meredith 9mm adapter. It was hot enough to sizzle if touched w/ a wet figer! Left an instant burn mark on my hand.

10 seconds might be an exaggeration, but it wasn't long. I'll say 30 seconds at most.

I guess it all depends on the diode!!

 

[suiraM]

It would be interesting to know the threshold current for Glaserfan's diode, and the actual power output.

Given that information, and a bit of help from Igor, I might have enough information to come up with some reasonable predictions about max power and lifetime expectancy, depending on what the numbers actually show. I'd love to characterize it fully when my rig is up, but I don't suppose it'll be for sale when that happens?

 

[Davo]

just finished my second blue ray build

left - 100ma
right - 150 ma

mayb im still getting used to lasers or mayb my cr2 batteries are a bit dead but imo there isnt that much of a difference btwn the power of the two

 

[daguin]

just finished my second blue ray build

left - 100ma
right - 150 ma

mayb im still getting used to lasers or mayb my cr2 batteries are a bit dead but imo there isnt that much of a difference btwn the power of the two

You may not be able to "see" the difference in the beams especially inside the house.  Try shining them on a piece of white paper.  You should be able to see the difference.  If you take them outside with a little moisture in the air and shine them side-by-side you should be able to see the difference there too.

Peace,
dave

 

[Davo]

[quote author=Davo link=1222727177/0#7 date=1222839809]
You may not be able to "see" the difference in the beams especially inside the house.  Try shining them on a piece of white paper.  You should be able to see the difference.  If you take them outside with a little moisture in the air and shine them side-by-side you should be able to see the difference there too.

Peace,
dave

havnt tried them inside the house yet, waiting for my goggles to arrive.

also are those Glass Collimating Optics a usefull upgrade from the lenses that come with the axiz modules?

 

[daguin]

I'm not sure which "glass collimating optics" you are asking about.  Of the easily available lenses the acrylic lens in the AixiZ gives the second best output.  The Merideth glass give a bit better, but it is not interchangeable in the Aixiz module.  You have to use a Meridith module in the build.  You can improve the output of the AixiZ by "opening up" the rear of the lens nut by very carefully removing the back part of the nut.

Here is a before and after:

The glass lens from AixiZ is coated for red. It actually reduces the output of a 405nm laser.

Peace,
dave

 

[Davo]

i was thinking of this
http://stonetek.org/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77&products_id=219

 

[daguin]

i was thinking of this
http://stonetek.org/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77&products_id=219

Those are the ones anti-reflective coated to pass red. They reflect violet. If you have the AiziX module and acrylic lens, just open up the back. Of course you should be aware that you will not really "see" a difference in the beam and/or spot anyway. The difference is "measurable" but not really "noticeable." As you have observed, the 405nm light is right at the edge of our eye's ability to perceive it. A few milliwatts difference will not be noticeable.

Peace,
dave

 

[hydrogenman15]

150 ma's is nothing compared to what daguin has been pushing them to. ;D With heatsinking it will die if you leave it on to long.

--hydro15

 

[polop]

sureley if there is not too much difference between 150mA and 110mA it would be best to keep the current lower and enjoy relaxed duty cycles and longer lives(am i mistaken or can a blu ray at 100mA have almost no duty cycle?)

 

[Davo]

i try to keep all my run times under a minute. if it goes over i have never let them hit a min thirty