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FrozenGate by Avery

PHR-803 & LPC-815 sleds

If you KNOW you've got serious problems, DON'T do the same thing over and over in the hope of getting a different outcome.

Especially, don't use expensive laser diodes for your learning curve. Start with simple LEDs (lo current), then maybe with Cree emitters (hi current), then move to cheap laser diodes like the $2 635nm ones (lo current) that daguin offers in a thread around here. Once you've got that working, then try an expensive BR or LOC diode.
 





I know what you mean... but the thing is, I know how to build them. And I've built 1 working blu-ray, 2 working red, and one working $2 635nm. However, I broke 12 out of 15 PHR/LPC and 1 635nm so far. The reason why i broke the first 7 was because of either breaking the pins off or from disconnecting and reconnecting the cap by accident; however, the last 4 diodes or so didn't do either. They either didn't light up at all, or they light up for a fraction of a second, then went out. I'm guessing it was either ESD or reverse voltage by accident or something (I've been using DDL w/o the pot but a SET resistor and w/o a diode to prevent reverse voltage). So, I know i broke 1 from reverse voltage, several others from pins breaking, and others from caps. Lastly, I'm sure i ruined a lot from soldering for too long on the diode (would get VERY hot). I am getting better and better, just VERY SLOWLY. I have 4 working builds, and I hope to make 2 more - one MXDL Blu-ray and one MXDL red. After that, I'll be either done, or will take a break for a while - or at least until I get more money. I'm now considering just buying already made modules for $40 and then just put them in the case... but the whole point of this is to say that I made it - from scratch (extracted diode my self, built driver, soldered everything, made heatsink, etc.). I appreciate the concern and wanting to help, I rlly do - but I just think it's something neither you nor me can figure out.
 
wolfram said:
What wattage soldering iron do you use ? Do you use a heat sink to draw heat away from the diode when soldering ? Do you turn down the pot and gradually increase the current until you reach your desired output? Is the diode in a module when you test it ? how much voltage do you use to test it?
These are all issues that can destroy the diode . I know from experience , and now have 9\10 builds working stable . It take a little time and money to get the knack .
If you have any questions , please feel free to pm me.
wolfram  (--:
Click to expand...

Yeah, I use a 40W soldering station (Weller). It has adjustable numbers from 1-5 and I usually set it at a lil over 3. I know I have been getting the diodes wayy to hot. Thats probably my biggest problem out of everything. I've been getting better and better, but the solder joints keep breaking if I move it around too much, then I solder again and eventually the diode can end up getting VERY hot - practically burning to the touch. I've really been neglecting that because I know i've done that in the past, yet the diodes still worked. However, I'll certainly take it in consideration and will make SURE I don't solder for more than 2-3 sec. at a time and will let it cool down thoroughly. Thanks for reminding me.

Also, to answer your other question, I've been mostly using the PHR-803t these days, and I've been setting the DDL to 125mA (I don't use a pot, but I use a 10ohm resistor).

Edit: Also, yeah - it's always in a module when I solder to it. And when I test the diodes, I use 3V for the LPC and 6V for the PHR and I set the current to the min on a Lab Power supply, then slowly raise it until it light up. I haven't been testing my circuit though, but thats mostly because my multimeters are all broken/ haven't been working correctly.
 
ya I used to break a few pins myself from turning the cap accidentally. I found that by using some epoxy (small amount with a tooth pick) applied on the bottom side of a driver between aixis module cap and the circuit board at 45 degrees it added good stability. this could also be done with a basic driver config as well.
If you look at a chinese laser pointer you will see epoxy used for strenth. LOL

Mike H
 
you really should use a small soldering heat sink clip (find them on the net or at radioshack) . They come in different metals- copper or aluminum are best. ( ive used both ) What a diode life saver!
As far as the solder joint is concerned , use the smallest diameter you can find. Oh yah place the heat sink clip between the joint and the circuit . This way it absorbs heat before it gets to the diode. also use a 47 uF capacitor after the resister between the anode and the cathode +\_. I use ceramic type capacitor - they are smaller. for a heatsink for the optic module , you can go to a plumbing store for copper pipe connectors or use aluminum washers stacked and drilled out to size .

I hope this helps . Welcome to the laser addiction LOL Have fun!
(--;
 
u use a ddl driver for the lpc at 3v ? thats not enough to power it and ur meter might be reading the wrong output of the driver and killing all ur diodes

if i was u i would purchace a rkcstr driver at 420ma or send me ur driver ill test it and get u a working laser module 8-)
 
What do you mean by heat sink clip? and jake, I may take you up on that offer lol... but the point is to make it myself - but yeah, I think its mostly my soldering that's the problem. I heat the diode up wayy too much. I could solder fast, but then the pins break off. I've done epoxy before, but sometimes it screwed up. I can make a laser fine, but fitting a DDL in a host makes it hard. I think I can do it, especially since I fit a DDL in this really small one I made. I'll post pics of what I made so you guys can see that i CAN make some, I've just been screwing up a lot. Also, what makes it really hard is that my Weller solder station only has a chisel tip. I really should buy a pencil tip, but I have yet to do so. I have cheaper soldering irons, which I now may use instead since they have a pencil tip.
 
jake21 said:
u use a ddl driver for the lpc at 3v ? thats not enough to power it and ur meter might be reading the wrong output of the driver and killing all ur diodes

if i was u i would purchace a rkcstr driver at 420ma or send me ur driver ill test it and get u a working laser module  8-)
Click to expand...

No, I use 3V on a lab power supply w/o the driver... then slowly increase the current a lil (nvr past 200mA - its just to see if it lights). But, I don't usually do that. I usually test the diodes ONLY to confirm they're broken. If not - I know something shorted in the circuit.
 
first of all never power a diode with out a driver and yes a pencil tip soldering gun will work best pm me if u like me to fix it for ys
 
I know this doesn't really belong here, but this is where this whole conversation started:
Lasers2.jpg
 
Mine arrived last week. I built the blu-ray pointer thursday night, and it lasted until saturday night running at 107mA. Guess it's time to build the red until my next 803t arrives  ;D
 
A minute or so at a time. Maybe a little more, but once it started getting warm I stopped. I'm sure it was stupidity that killed it, so I'm not faulting anyone but myself. It just means I get to order another. before I place my order, I do have a couple questions.

Does it matter which 803t I order (sled or w/heatsink) if I want it premounted in an aixiz module? Also, does the module come with the little focusing knob? I see people on here with them, but the ones I ordered before I found this site didn't come with them.

Thanks for your help!
 
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