NUBM31T 95W 455nm

[toutan]

Yeah sorry, I was mixed up with MOSFETs and the LM(Linear regulators). I drew this up for you. I wouldn't worry too much about MOSFETs, I am using a 'microwave door' button switch, which can handle 10 amps.

これらは私が使用しているものとは異なりますが、いたるところにあります：https： //www.amazon.ca/Twidec-Universal-Microwave-Normally-ZW7-15-R/dp/B07NV2NN47/ref= sr_1_2_sspa？CRID = 3LSZ4SX3S98P3＆dchild = 1＆キーワード=マイクロ波+スイッチ+ドア＆QID = 1621551919＆sprefix =マイクロ、APS、248＆SR = 8-2-spons＆PSC = 1＆SPLA = ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE2RUZTNzNSQ0ZLWUYmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTEwMzU2NTMxSjZYMUlCME9ENlhDJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwODU4MzMxWU5MMVdaVjkwNVNGJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ ==

これは「シリーズ」配線です。この構成では、レーザーは60ボルトの範囲のどこかまでオンになりません。しかし、アンペア数は素晴らしく、低くなります。

View attachment 72744

Yeah sorry, I was mixed up with MOSFETs and the LM(Linear regulators). I drew this up for you. I wouldn't worry too much about MOSFETs, I am using a 'microwave door' button switch, which can handle 10 amps.

These aren't the exact ones I'm using, but they are all over the place: https://www.amazon.ca/Twidec-Universal-Microwave-Normally-ZW7-15-R/dp/B07NV2NN47/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3LSZ4SX3S98P3&dchild=1&keywords=microwave+switch+door&qid=1621551919&sprefix=micro,aps,248&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE2RUZTNzNSQ0ZLWUYmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTEwMzU2NTMxSjZYMUlCME9ENlhDJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwODU4MzMxWU5MMVdaVjkwNVNGJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

This is 'series' wiring. With this configuration, the laser wont even turn on until somewhere in the 60 volt range. but the amperage will be nice and low.

View attachment 72744

I really appreciate your detailed explanation.
Thank you very much.

 

[toutan]

To light up the NUBM31T, it is very easy to use a boost converter, but
Styro uses the LM338 to light it up.
The LM338 can draw up to 5A of current.
So how do you increase the voltage?
Does the NUBM31T need to be increased to 80V?

 

[BrilliantLasers]

To light up the NUBM31T, it is very easy to use a boost converter, but
Styro uses the LM338 to light it up.
The LM338 can draw up to 5A of current.
So how do you increase the voltage?
Does the NUBM31T need to be increased to 80V?

This is why I gave you a link to the voltage regulator. By turning nobs you can adjust both voltage and current to whatever level you want: This thing can output as much as 10 amps.. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08B63RYD6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The knobs are the tiny screws on the little blue boxes on the circuit board on the device in the link.

 

[Giannis_TDM]

I'm pretty amature with electronics. But this device seems to work really well so far. If you are looking for something cheap, flexible and high power it works? One guy did a review on start up current surge on the device, and said it was actually minimal. I haven't noticed any bright flicker in the laser when it's switched on, but then again it might be so brief it can't be seen. Besides, as long as the voltage is low enough, would a millisecond of high current even have any effect? Laser diodes resist current on their own until they heat up...

Are you just assuming the device has faults cause it's cheap? Or have you actually worked with it? I'm not defending it's 'honor' I'm just wondering. You don't like the one sold on ebay or my suggestion on amazon, so you aren't even giving any options here haha to toutan. "Everything is bad, don't buy anything!" You're not really helping anyone here.

@toutan 94 volts is not too high if you're wiring the laser array in series. You need to make sure to wire each pin on the array in 'series', this brings the voltage up, but the amps down. If you don't wire in series, the laser will require really high amperage, and you will have big problems feeding it 94 volts if they are in parallel.

I am not assuming anything, I am making drivers and so have bought the tools required to test them, Rigol DS1054z, Korad KD3005D and Keithley DMM6500 If you're wondering.

All the points I have made are from the 2 units in my hands. Also, I love how you imply that it works well just because the array hasn't catastrophically failed yet. And I am in fact helping anyone who reads what I post thank you very much. Furthermore, Wrong. laser diodes do not resist current until they heat up, Eliminate said CC loop in that supply for their first 100ms startup and those die strings will happily draw 5+ A each, They are essentially NUMB44v2 dies. And yes even a millisecond pulse of current has the potential to outright destroy or more commonly damage the emitter leading it to lose a few "bars"(such dies usually use 4 stacked emitters aka bars) And no, I do not like said products you have posted because I haven't tested them and you haven't either, Not seeing any oscilloscope waveforms here and your word tells me nothing, It's like saying that a car engine that glows red due to heat but hasn't melted although seemingly still working fine is good and has no problems.

Furthermore usually no-name cheap SMPSs from china (even lab bench PSUs) have nasty current spikes due to cheap slow opamps used in their loops. Typical cheeping out performed by your local Chinese factory manager. So if you have any actual points with bases to make Ill gladly hear them.

 

[Giannis_TDM]

To light up the NUBM31T, it is very easy to use a boost converter, but
Styro uses the LM338 to light it up.
The LM338 can draw up to 5A of current.
So how do you increase the voltage?
Does the NUBM31T need to be increased to 80V?

Styro used LM338s with a 28v Lipo pack and had the array wired in parallel, 2 of them for each string, Much safer to use the array in parallel because it can handle overcurrent way better of overvoltage in a scenario that a die dies closed.

 

[BrilliantLasers]

I am not assuming anything, I am making drivers and so have bought the tools required to test them, Rigol DS1054z, Korad KD3005D and Keithley DMM6500 If you're wondering.

All the points I have made are from the 2 units in my hands. Also, I love how you imply that it works well just because the array hasn't catastrophically failed yet. And I am in fact helping anyone who reads what I post thank you very much. Furthermore, Wrong. laser diodes do not resist current until they heat up, Eliminate said CC loop in that supply for their first 100ms startup and those die strings will happily draw 5+ A each, They are essentially NUMB44v2 dies. And yes even a millisecond pulse of current has the potential to outright destroy or more commonly damage the emitter leading it to lose a few "bars"(such dies usually use 4 stacked emitters aka bars) And no, I do not like said products you have posted because I haven't tested them and you haven't either, Not seeing any oscilloscope waveforms here and your word tells me nothing, It's like saying that a car engine that glows red due to heat but hasn't melted although seemingly still working fine is good and has no problems.

Furthermore usually no-name cheap SMPSs from china (even lab bench PSUs) have nasty current spikes due to cheap slow opamps used in their loops. Typical cheeping out performed by your local Chinese factory manager. So if you have any actual points with bases to make Ill gladly hear them.

You need to try to remember that this is a hobbyist forum. Making a laser gun for fun is not the same as making some laboratory laser, or a laser product that you are going to sell. We go in accepting we could loose parts during the process. I personally enjoy the challenge of getting the best prices. I don't have the knowledge and experience to make my own driver for a 100 watt laser.. And that's the same for a large amount of members on here.

It's funny you mentioned NUMB44. (Hearing this is really gonna grind your gears. ) One time for fun, I ran one of those off of 2, 18650s without ANY driver for a month straight. I got like at 5 hours of solid use out of that thing till it finally burned out. They resist current really well on their own! Why did I do this? Why the hell not! It was a fun experiment that cost 50 bucks!

Not sure if you saw pictures of my gun, but there is an LCD screen that tells me everything about the power consumption of the laser. They are always at safe and stable levels. Of course I cannot see at the millisecond level, but I highly doubt this thing is going to burn itself out in the short amount of use I will give this hobby laser gun I made for fun.

You're clearly not trying to help anyone here, you're just here to flaunt your knowledge expertise without any real solutions. Besides, I am a complete amateur who created and designed a 100 watt laser gun from scratch using cheap parts I found on my own in a matter of weeks. I feel pretty good about that, and I'm not gonna sweat it if it dies in a month or a year haha.

 

[Giannis_TDM]

You need to try to remember that this is a hobbyist forum. Making a laser gun for fun is not the same as making some laboratory laser, or a laser product that you are going to sell. We go in accepting we could loose parts during the process. I personally enjoy the challenge of getting the best prices. I don't have the knowledge and experience to make my own driver for a 100 watt laser.. And that's the same for a large amount of members on here.

It's funny you mentioned NUMB44. (Hearing this is really gonna grind your gears. ) One time for fun, I ran one of those off of 2, 18650s without ANY driver for a month straight. I got like at 5 hours of solid use out of that thing till it finally burned out. They resist current really well on their own! Why did I do this? Why the hell not! It was a fun experiment that cost 50 bucks!

Not sure if you saw pictures of my gun, but there is an LCD screen that tells me everything about the power consumption of the laser. They are always at safe and stable levels. Of course I cannot see at the millisecond level, but I highly doubt this thing is going to burn itself out in the short amount of use I will give this hobby laser gun I made for fun.

You're clearly not trying to help anyone here, you're just here to flaunt your knowledge expertise without any real solutions. Besides, I am a complete amateur who created and designed a 100 watt laser gun from scratch using cheap parts I found on my own in a matter of weeks. I feel pretty good about that, and I'm not gonna sweat it if it dies in a month or a year haha.

You're clearly missing the point here, What you are saying is essentially: This a hobbist forum so you providing advanced advice does nothing. And no that doesn't grind my gears at all, Wait till you learn about ESR of all the parts you have going to the diode. Again can you be more specific as to what 18650s you chose? If they are salvaged or cheap from china it doesn't surprise me at all, adding up all their resistances if said guesses hit the mark you have 1-2 ohms of ESR and that can absolutely prevent such a powerful diode from getting blown in short duty cycles, Again they do not resist current do the same with a power supply and adequate leads and you will get 0 hours at 8.4v without CC. That screen is not an oscilloscope and hence It cant show you the rise up spike. The main worry here is the spike during rise up, Any possible spikes during rise down and any possible bad connections. The reason why I mentioned output capacitance was that if any bad connection was to occur the diode array would burn up instantly when reconnected due to the cap being charged at 94v and having more than enough capacitance for a nice long high current spike. If you see this as flaunting knowledge I am deeply sorry to say that that is not the attitude you should have when you hear stuff from someone who knows what they are talking about. I didn't get to where I am today by saying to my teachers that they are just flaunting their knowledge when giving us extra lectures or when people are talking about advanced SMPS related topics. Furthermore, Don't pat yourself on the back too much, The only thing I can credit you for designing is the gun array holder and array cooling solution. Don't think connecting wires together is that much of an achievement.

 

[BrilliantLasers]

You're clearly missing the point here, What you are saying is essentially: This a hobbist forum so you providing advanced advice does nothing. And no that doesn't grind my gears at all, Wait till you learn about ESR of all the parts you have going to the diode. Again can you be more specific as to what 18650s you chose? If they are salvaged or cheap from china it doesn't surprise me at all, adding up all their resistances if said guesses hit the mark you have 1-2 ohms of ESR and that can absolutely prevent such a powerful diode from getting blown in short duty cycles, Again they do not resist current do the same with a power supply and adequate leads and you will get 0 hours at 8.4v without CC. That screen is not an oscilloscope and hence It cant show you the rise up spike. The main worry here is the spike during rise up, Any possible spikes during rise down and any possible bad connections. The reason why I mentioned output capacitance was that if any bad connection was to occur the diode array would burn up instantly when reconnected due to the cap being charged at 94v and having more than enough capacitance for a nice long high current spike. If you see this as flaunting knowledge I am deeply sorry to say that that is not the attitude you should have when you hear stuff from someone who knows what they are talking about. I didn't get to where I am today by saying to my teachers that they are just flaunting their knowledge when giving us extra lectures or when people are talking about advanced SMPS related topics. Furthermore, Don't pat yourself on the back too much, The only thing I can credit you for designing is the gun array holder and array cooling solution. Don't think connecting wires together is that much of an achievement.

The 18650s were cheap Chinese ones yes, but I've measured their peak to be around 8 amps, and those things can likely spike well into the 10-20 amps range. I've experimented in powering nubm44s with my home power supply, and they always seem to have a hard 'gate' on amps vs volts (until they slowly heat up). Again, I know things likely look different on smaller time scales. My entire point with this is, these diodes are impressively durable when it comes to current, and only in extreme situations have I seen them fail.

Also, I'm not trying to 'get anywhere' in lasing, it's a hobby and nothing more. I'm not trying to impress teachers as I am far beyond that stage in my life, besides I am opposed to how things are done in the academic world. I own a large business, so I'm not concerned with trying to make a living in my hobbies. Making that laser gun is not a big accomplishment for someone with your experience, my point was that I thought outside the box and was able to use parts not intended for driving lasers that get the job done perfectly fine. It also takes a great deal of drive and motivation to actually do a full build of something like that. Most people would just plug the diode into their power supply, marvel at it's power, and put it on the shelf to collect dust.

 

[Giannis_TDM]

The 18650s were cheap Chinese ones yes, but I've measured their peak to be around 8 amps, and those things can likely spike well into the 10-20 amps range. I've experimented in powering nubm44s with my home power supply, and they always seem to have a hard 'gate' on amps vs volts (until they slowly heat up). Again, I know things likely look different on smaller time scales. My entire point with this is, these diodes are impressively durable when it comes to current, and only in extreme situations have I seen them fail.

Also, I'm not trying to 'get anywhere' in lasing, it's a hobby and nothing more. I'm not trying to impress teachers as I am far beyond that stage in my life, besides I am opposed to how things are done in the academic world. I own a large business, so I'm not concerned with trying to make a living in my hobbies. Making that laser gun is not a big accomplishment for someone with your experience, my point was that I thought outside the box and was able to use parts not intended for driving lasers that get the job done perfectly fine. It also takes a great deal of drive and motivation to actually do a full build of something like that. Most people would just plug the diode into their power supply, marvel at it's power, and put it on the shelf to collect dust.

Ah so now your argument has transitioned to: I don't want to learn more because I think that what I have learned on the topic, being the bare minimum is more than enough to fuck around with the most dangerous of lasers... Right. Also, the peak current you have measured was under a short right? A short is much less than a laser diode~ couple millivolts compared to a 4.7v drop. Again your testing methods are not appropriate due to the lack of knowledge you continue to insist you shouldn't expand on. Please get rid of that attitude, Exactly the thing keeping you from taking that large business of yours from a large business to an enterprise. Also like to point out that me seemingly not helping anyone by giving them very well explained info that they can expand on is your opinion and your opinion only, Doesn't hold much value your opinion is my opinion

 

[BrilliantLasers]

Ah so now your argument has transitioned to: I don't want to learn more because I think that what I have learned on the topic, being the bare minimum is more than enough to fuck around with the most dangerous of lasers... Right. Also, the peak current you have measured was under a short right? A short is much less than a laser diode~ couple millivolts compared to a 4.7v drop. Again your testing methods are not appropriate due to the lack of knowledge you continue to insist you shouldn't expand on. Please get rid of that attitude, Exactly the thing keeping you from taking that large business of yours from a large business to an enterprise.

You're definitely here to put people down. ;P Attacking my business now which you know nothing about.

 

[Giannis_TDM]

You're definitely here to put people down. ;P Attacking my business now which you know nothing about.

Attacking your business by saying that you can turn it into an enterprise... Right. Give you a few hours to think of an *actual* argument.

 

[BrilliantLasers]

Attacking your business by saying that you can turn it into an enterprise... Right. Give you a few hours to think of an *actual* argument.

I just found it funny when you made a funny assumption that my business is doing poorly based on nothing. I guess I should have sucked up to my teachers and randoms on forums more, maybe my business would do better. Really weird thing to say.

 

[Unown (WILD)]

Okay that's enough now guys. No more personal insults. BL you made a nice laser and glad you're running a good business, giannis you gave good advice. Leave it at that. I don't want to read any more of it.

 

[Giannis_TDM]

I just found it funny when you made a funny assumption that my business is doing poorly based on nothing. I guess I should have sucked up to my teachers and randoms on forums more, maybe my business would do better. Really weird thing to say.

I am sorry if you took it that way but I never implied it was doing bad.

 

[RedCowboy]

Sorry for what ?

Sorry Mr. Brilliant can't take constructive criticism ?

This site was always about sharing information and learning, not prancing around someones ego because they are unwilling to learn or their facade indignation.

Others who want to experiment with these arrays ( which are actually a sad state of affairs for our hobby ) may not want it to burn out after a few hours of hard start use, many would rather learn how to obtain or make a better driver, I myself used an LM338 one for each string on my Osram array, I have had trouble with the Chinese dc-dc drivers at start up and it's not always the 1st time I switched it on.

I say Giannis_TDM was on point with his assessment.

--------

@ Unknown (WILD) : A simple " Guys please keep it civil " would be more appropriate IMHO

 

[Unown (WILD)]

That may be but I said I don't want to read any more of this drama on this thread and I mean it.