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Nichia nubm07e from Germany

BlueQ

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Well I got 2 NUBM07E delivered by now - one from a friend, one from a reseller (insaneware) coming with a partial copper Aixiz module. rsz_img_20200916_110529.jpg

I was able to conduct a limited form of my originally intended experiment 2 weeks ago but only for about 1h, now with 2 465nm in my possession, I am ready and excited to accumulate a lot more data.
Going to attach two female pin headers to the module, regulate the Voltage with a Potentiometer on a breadboard and connect to the 5V output of an Arduino, install the necessary sensor arrays.
 



Gianakakis

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Well I got 2 NUBM07E delivered by now - one from a friend, one from a reseller (insaneware) coming with a partial copper Aixiz module. View attachment 70056

I was able to conduct a limited form of my originally intended experiment 2 weeks ago but only for about 1h, now with 2 465nm in my possession, I am ready and excited to accumulate a lot more data.
Going to attach two female pin headers to the module, regulate the Voltage with a Potentiometer on a breadboard and connect to the 5V output of an Arduino, install the necessary sensor arrays.
You need a constant current laser driver to properly power that diode. Also, that potentiometer will melt if it's not rated for 5w or more. Also, that Arduino can't power it directly with its digital pwm outputs, those are max 40mA.
 
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Alaskan

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I hope he meant a pot on a constant current driver. If not, he will have a dead diode pretty fast if only using the voltage drop from a pot, as you indicated, if using one of those small pots it will burn it out pretty fast if not 5 watt rated, but that is moot to me, don't use a voltage drop across a resistor to set voltage on these to begin with, unless part of a CC regulator. If all you are doing is setting the voltage and letting it run, these diodes typically begin to pull more and more current as it gets warmer and warmer, so set the current, not the voltage. Also, be sure to insert that 12 mm module in a heat sink, that 12 mm module won't dissipate enough heat at the power level that diode can produce without enough of one..

Regarding adjusting the current, once you have a constant current regulator, some individuals won't adjust the pot while powered due to possible noise spikes from the contact sliding on the carbon inside it. I have not had a problem doings so yet myself, but I've heard reports not to adjust while powered, to start at lower current and adjust up in steps, power it off each time to move the pot, then turning it back on to see how close you are to the desired amount of current.

Keep in mind, although a constant current driver holds the current steady at the set point you adjust it to, the output voltage varies up or down on its own to keep the current steady. As the laser diode heats, they typically pull more current and can go into a runaway state and burn out, if the current is not held steady. If the device gets too hot and begins to want to pull more current, the CC driver reduces the voltage to keep the current from rising further.
 
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BlueQ

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Yes, the Bloch Grüneisen temperature will fry the diode if not properly managed within vendor specified parameters. My latest post was fairly bad on my part, written in haste & excitement about the ability to start my experiment and giving a understandably wrong impression about the setup. The arduino is connected to several digital analog converters interface with my driver with external power supply. I will be creating an extra thread + full schematic once I am ready.
 

Alaskan

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We were just being careful to let you know, since you didn't mention the driver part. Good to know you already had managed all of that.
 




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