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New JLasers 11mm JLB4855 4.2v boost driver






Oeliboeb

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Neat! What does the output current waveform look like on these?
 

Ears and Eggs

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That is really cool. From the first picture it looked for a second like it was a collection of silver coins. :cool:
 

loreadarkshade

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Here it is with ha 505nm diode. That's quite a lot of ripple! More than I expected. This being a 11mm driver, I could not fit the best output filtering capacitors. I would recommend soldering a small capacitor on the output if you use these with an expensive diode.
b9affbec-2f6a-4cf5-b21f-40f3306cd019.jpg
 

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Giannis_TDM

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Ouch, p-p of 720mV? what cap size, capacity, voltage and dielectric rating did you use?
 

Oeliboeb

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Here it is with ha 505nm diode. That's quite a lot of ripple! More than I expected.
Thanks for sharing! Do you measure this ripple voltage as a current through a shunt resistor? If so, what resistance?
This being a 11mm driver, I could not fit the best output filtering capacitors. I would recommend soldering a small capacitor on the output if you use these with an expensive diode.
Some bigger, low ESR ceramics?
 

Giannis_TDM

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Its not just that, dielectric and voltage rating for the caps he used matters a lot, when you get close to the voltage rating capacitance can drop to half of the rated capacity, besides that with those switching frequencies he does not need bigger for the most part, he needs properly calculated small capacitors and a ladder of them say a 100nF, a 1uf and 2x 4.7uf in parallel.
 

Borislav@87

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Here it is with ha 505nm diode. That's quite a lot of ripple! More than I expected. This being a 11mm driver, I could not fit the best output filtering capacitors. I would recommend soldering a small capacitor on the output if you use these with an expensive diode.
View attachment 77116
Okay, I understand that you follow what's going on too fastidiously. But what negative effect will that have on the diode when most people use laser pointers for short cycles. I have tested all kinds of converters from Aliexpress and they all work very well with laser diodes. None were damaged.
 

loreadarkshade

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To be honest, I don't think much. Laser diodes are devices that can be pulsed via PWM , being turned on and off continuously hundreds to thousands of times per second, so my guess is, ripple probably won't do any damage, as long as the ripple peak never exceeds the diode's rated voltage / amperage.

Then again, endurance lasers can get 10W out of NUBM47 by using higher amps with PWM.

But this is just speculation. I'll try running a cheap 505nm diode with this noisy driver non-stop and see how many hours it lasts
 

Borislav@87

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I have experience with blue NUBM0E at 3.5A with driver from Aliexpress. They light up without problems for 5 hours without interruption. Of course with fan. My point is that modern diode
last a lot longer than years ago. I put 5 seconds of 7.5A on NUBM0F and it is alive. Poor cooling is the biggest problem with laser pointers.
 

Giannis_TDM

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I have experience with blue NUBM0E at 3.5A with driver from Aliexpress. They light up without problems for 5 hours without interruption. Of course with fan. My point is that modern diode
last a lot longer than years ago. I put 5 seconds of 7.5A on NUBM0F and it is alive. Poor cooling is the biggest problem with laser pointers.
Yeah, Its completely different for high power blues, they don't really care, a nubm anything surviving a bad driver is nothing, one of my friends has blowtorched an m140 till red hot and it still lazed afterwards. => 'thousands of times per second, so my guess is, ripple probably won't do any damage, as long as the ripple peak never exceeds the diode's rated voltage / amperage.' I agree with this, high ripple means briefly over-currenting the diode millions of times per second, it might not die imminently or never for the specific diode you are testing, may be a unicorn or something. That is another problem with this, 2 diodes will never be the same so you have to account for the 'worst' one when making a driver. The damage mechanism can vary but its generally one of these: Bonding wires overheat and cant take it or at the faucets, the coated-on mirror gets degraded and eventually leads to catastrophic optical damage. Especially working with single modes due to the nature of them where the die itself is smaller and the bonding wires fewer they can be killed much much easier, especially when talking about low power single mode violets, greens and reds, Blues are more resilient and the sharp 488 and 505nm diodes have proved to be an exception regarding their durability. Killing them is really hard, the true test for a diode driver will always be the 405nm single mode 700mw BDR diode. That thing simply does not survive any ripple in excess of 50-100mV on voltage and 50+mA of current ripple.
 

Borislav@87

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I don't have that much experience and knowledge in this field. I just have experience with certain diodes and have used a variety of converters so far and have had no problems with any of them. Yesterday I mistakenly ran 4.7A on a NUGM06 green diode and it is alive after that. I have set them all to run at 2A current because they will run in the summer for 4-5 hours straight. I have been using these converters for quite some time and they work great. They are quite powerful, 300 or 400W as I recall. During long work, there is absolutely no heating.
 

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