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ArcticMyst Security by Avery
need some guidance please!!!
- Thread starter weav6385
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Javalin
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Well if you don't get it beforehand have a good Thanksgiving 
Tmack
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You'll get it man. Nothing to it. Now you have a story about your first experience. What is your driver set at?
Ok guys. Got my new laser today. Lets try this again. Now i habe no clue what im doing obviosly and the directions for my laser driver seem to be in a different language. Maybe aoeone can help. Please ! The output range is 20-300ma. It has 5-10v input. It states for battery powered hosts the driver requires the diode to be electrically isolated if the diode case is +ve. What!!!!!? The board has the following conection patches. Laser diode -ve, laser diode -ve or null, ttl control +ve, on the reverse side it has laser diode +ve, power +ve, power &TTL -ve, along with the current control.:wtf: What does this mean ? I habe never been so lost lol. Everyone seems to know what they are talking about on here so im hoping one of u guys can please help me out. I would really like to fire this thing up. Then im going to start a forum and ask what people would like to see built if they could design any laser. Then build it to their requests and make some videos. Please help guys. This is a sweet hobby but it dont make much of a hobby if your clueless! Thanks in advance! Happy turkey!
It states as follows : the laser diode +ve is connected to power +ve and laser diode -ve is controlled by the circuit. (Note ) for case +ve diodes the case cannot be grounded). The minimum input voltage depends on the laser diode operating voltage and current setting, its is typically about .5-1.5v higher than the laser diode operating voltage. Lower voltages will not allow full current ranges and higher one will be dissipated by the driver as heat. The current required by the driver is typically 20-30ma higher than the output current. Stability is typically better than 3% when the ttl+ve is not connected the output is a few ma. When it is powered above 2.5v the driver is enabled. It can be connected to power +ve for continuous operation. The TTL control cam be used to switch the laser at rates up to 10khz. ,
Tmack
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O let's start from the beginning. Connect the diode leads to the ld+ and ld- ,
Pictures of the driver would help tremendously
Pictures of the driver would help tremendously
Last edited:
Javalin
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Happy Thanksgiving!
Good to hear that you got the new diode. One of the overwhelming things with building lasers is getting through your first. You can't just get your feet wet, it's all or nothing.
One thing you need to know is what the driver is set at. Otherwise it could spell certain doom for your new driver. You need a dummy load.
Good to hear that you got the new diode. One of the overwhelming things with building lasers is getting through your first. You can't just get your feet wet, it's all or nothing.
One thing you need to know is what the driver is set at. Otherwise it could spell certain doom for your new driver. You need a dummy load.
Javalin
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The max rating on the driver is 300mA, if you trust that it won't ever go higher then you could try it. I'm just not sure if I would.
The bit about the continuous ground is talking about how the driver functions. I don't remember off hand if you said which driver you have but if you search for the driver name and include the term continuous ground. You should get some hits.
The diode you have is case negative. What this means is that the metal around the diode is the same as connecting it to the negative pin on the diode.
In addition to your driver being able to run on continuous ground, it should be a buck driver.
The bit about the continuous ground is talking about how the driver functions. I don't remember off hand if you said which driver you have but if you search for the driver name and include the term continuous ground. You should get some hits.
The diode you have is case negative. What this means is that the metal around the diode is the same as connecting it to the negative pin on the diode.
In addition to your driver being able to run on continuous ground, it should be a buck driver.
Tmack
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You can buy a driver already connected to a diode, and the driver will have leads. All you do is solder it to the contact board . Lol still have to solder to a board.
Wet the ends of the wire. Wet the spot where you want to connect to the driver. Then only using the solder on each surface, add heat and stick them together, without having to hold the spool.
Wet the ends of the wire. Wet the spot where you want to connect to the driver. Then only using the solder on each surface, add heat and stick them together, without having to hold the spool.
Javalin
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Dtr IsYourFriend
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The best friends money can buy!
Don't feel bad about blowing up the diode. I'm still doing doing it and I've been doing this for a while
now. Just the other day I was playing with my 660nm O-Like lab host and set it on top the power
supply. Big mistake! The diode was a nice LCC (negative case) out of a GGW-H20L.
The case bone's connected to the module bone. The module bone's connected to the host bone.
The anodizing on the host wasn't enough to insulate it from the case of the power supply (connected to
negative bone and earth ground bone). So now I have to get ANOTHER diode. This is the third or fourth
one now. This host might be cursed. :can: So don't feel bad. You're going to smoke many more. That's
just the bature of the neast.
Don't feel bad about blowing up the diode. I'm still doing doing it and I've been doing this for a while
now. Just the other day I was playing with my 660nm O-Like lab host and set it on top the power
supply. Big mistake! The diode was a nice LCC (negative case) out of a GGW-H20L.
The case bone's connected to the module bone. The module bone's connected to the host bone.
The anodizing on the host wasn't enough to insulate it from the case of the power supply (connected to
negative bone and earth ground bone). So now I have to get ANOTHER diode. This is the third or fourth
one now. This host might be cursed. :can: So don't feel bad. You're going to smoke many more. That's
just the bature of the neast.
