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FrozenGate by Avery

Need Help Fixing my WL Arctic Spyder 3

H

HTID

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Oct 8, 2009
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Hello,

I need your help to fix my arctic laser...

After i turn on the end tail cap i do not get a green light on the smart switch, the only light that turns on is on the battery indicator (this one light flashes on/off non stop) i checked the battery and its fully charged, i checked if the diode is getting power from the driver and its not... so my problem is internal, and i need your help how i can safely take appart the housing and remove the driver board to fix it...
 





is there any pictures/videos/tutorials thats users posted earlier which can show me how to take it appart? i am sure someone has already done this in the past...
 
just wondering if its also possible to seperate it in half? they had to fit and wire the smart button in there somehow so there should be a way to unscrew/take appart the host in half?
 
Start and remove the end cap. You'll see 2 small screws holding in a metal connector ( shunt), remove the 2 screws and connector and the brass connector underneath. Make note of what parts are removed and the order. I would clean the metal parts and reassemble. Appears you have a bad connection in one of the safety mechanisms. If your still having problems i would get a mufti meter and test the end cap connections from the positive input and the safety connection i mentioned above , each tested alone.

Keep us posted , take pics, if the diodes alive well get it powered up


HTID said:
Hello,

I need your help to fix my arctic laser...

After i turn on the end tail cap i do not get a green light on the smart switch, the only light that turns on is on the battery indicator (this one light flashes on/off non stop) i checked the battery and its fully charged, i checked if the diode is getting power from the driver and its not... so my problem is internal, and i need your help how i can safely take appart the housing and remove the driver board to fix it...
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
the end cap is conducting power, the smart switch is faulty since it does not light up at all, it gets no power so its unable to send a signal to the driver board and the driver board cannot send power to the laser diode. i noticed there is a small gap around the battery meter and second half of the housing, has anyone manage to take this appart? im guessing the connection from the smart switch is broken, just not sure how to get to it...
 
yes, that's a point where you can separate the upper and lower halves. I would still double check the safety shunt in the tail cap Before separating the two parts if your OK with jumping the the tail ? If not don't. Otherwise place a fresh battery in the host and leave the tail cap to the side. Jump the positive terminal from battery to the host. Make sure your touching bare AL not the painted portion. The safety switch should receive full power .

I have seen two typical problems with this host. First being the separation that will become loose - I used silver solder to create some biting surface on one part and heated the other side for a few seconds and twisted until permanently locked.
The other problem is the brass shunt- It will oxidize and a polishing cloth should eliminate any further contact problems.

PM or post when you have tried these solutions





HTID said:
the end cap is conducting power, the smart switch is faulty since it does not light up at all, it gets no power so its unable to send a signal to the driver board and the driver board cannot send power to the laser diode. i noticed there is a small gap around the battery meter and second half of the housing, has anyone manage to take this appart? im guessing the connection from the smart switch is broken, just not sure how to get to it...
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
the only 2 screws on the host are located on the unscrewable end cap that seals the battery in, either way i have heard the end tail cap can have problems conducting electricity so i bypassed the end cap and still getting the same result, so as i guessed from the start i have to get to the actual smart switch located in the middle of the host, and to seperate that there is no screws,
 
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