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FrozenGate by Avery

My Home Brew BLuRay

Hey that looks like a good housing! I like the adjustment hole idea...
Jay
 





what's your schematic now with the latest mods?
I'm getting a Blu-Ray LD right now so I'm schematic searching for safe circuits.
Check out instructables . com because they also have a blu-ray LD project but the hook-up is sketchy.
 
It's pretty well right out of the data sheet with a couple of minor changes.

- substituted 2x 10om resistors and a 10 ohm pot for Rs
- added a 1uF ceramic cap on the output
- added a 1uF cap across the LD

It behaves like the LM317 circuit. The output voltage will float up to close to the Vin voltage with no load so it is important to ensure the LD is soldered in.

schematicdt6.jpg


SamuraiSmm said:
what's your schematic now with the latest mods?
I'm getting a Blu-Ray LD right now so I'm schematic searching for safe circuits.
Check out instructables . com because they also have a blu-ray LD project but the hook-up is sketchy.
Click to expand...
 
Well, i built it this evening and fired up my blu-ray and it's purty... i used a 10uF cap on the input, a 47uF and a .1uF cap at the output, 4001 for reverse protection and a 33ohm resistor for the current limit tied to the adjust... that put me at about 38mA and 4.10V.. it's plenty bright.. though the glass collimnator seems to cause a starburst at a distance (unless its just how i have it set)
 
sorphin said:
Well, i built it this evening and fired up my blu-ray and it's purty... i used a 10uF cap on the input, a 47uF and a .1uF cap at the output, 4001 for reverse protection and a 33ohm resistor for the current limit tied to the adjust... that put me at about 38mA and 4.10V.. it's plenty bright.. though the glass collimnator seems to cause a starburst at a distance (unless its just how i have it set)
Click to expand...

The color is a sight to behold. Mine looks like a starburst too with either a glass or plastic lens.
 
hey I already build up my own blu-ray mod in flashlight casing, I used 9v power input, i use daedal's LD circuit driver, can you tell me what was the adjustment for that driver to reach the burning effect of that blu-ray LD?does that affect the diode life of the BR? please help me...thanks..
 

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If you were talking to me, did you read the first post?

adgmeijin said:
hey I already build up my own blu-ray mod in flashlight casing, I used 9v power input, i use daedal's LD circuit driver, can you tell me what was the adjustment for that driver to reach the burning effect of that blu-ray LD?does that affect the diode life of the BR? please help me...thanks..
Click to expand...
 
ahh, again someone with silly high output from their bluray.. stop tempting me!!
i dont even get to ignite matches with my red diy, at least not without focussing.. *sigh*
i set my bluray to around 15mA above treshold.. but then i have a spare, perhaps i should dare more! :-)
oh, and i like your laser!

manuel
 
So you're using the MC33269?  I've been trying to use one too, but can't get the output correct.  For some reason my reference voltage is low and varies with input voltage even though the input is over 1.5v more than the output (drop-out should only be ~1V).  I have to lower the resistance to about 3ohms to get 250ma out at 4.5V (for a red diode), when it should be 5ohms... the Vref is about .78V when it should be 1.25V.

The only difference I see between yours and mine is the 1uf ceramic cap on input... and are you adding a parallel 1uf cap on output with another larger cap, or just the 1uf one?  I tried a 10uf tantalum cap across input and it didn't help, in fact it lowered the output current, and I have a 68uf low ESR tantalum cap across output.  I'll have to try a ceramic cap across input.
 
Are you taking the 1.25V sense voltage into account as well? There will be ~1V dropout between Vin and Vout but there is the 1.25V sense voltage that must be added as well for an over all minimum dropout of 2.25V (compared to ~3-4V for the LM317). The 1V dropout is valid for a voltage output configuration.

I've got a 1uF ceramic cap at the LD and a 15uF tantalum on the driver board.

rkcstr said:
So you're using the MC33269?  I've been trying to use one too, but can't get the output correct.  For some reason my reference voltage is low and varies with input voltage even though the input is over 1.5v more than the output (drop-out should only be ~1V).  I have to lower the resistance to about 3ohms to get 250ma out at 4.5V (for a red diode), when it should be 5ohms... the Vref is about .78V when it should be 1.25V.

The only difference I see between yours and mine is the 1uf ceramic cap on input... and are you adding a parallel 1uf cap on output with another larger cap, or just the 1uf one?  I tried a 10uf tantalum cap across input and it didn't help, in fact it lowered the output current, and I have a 68uf low ESR tantalum cap across output.  I'll have to try a ceramic cap across input.
Click to expand...
 
Looking at your images, I see what appears to be a blue powder on the inside surfaces of the enclosure. Copper sulfate from moisture + battery, or just plastic dust?
 
Hey chimo i am talking to you , like i am saying i build already the unit, i use 6 LR44 to make 9v, i adjust the trim pot til 38ma, can i adjust it to the ma you got there to light the matches? im worrying that my bluray will die after i done that, what you preferred me to do in my situation , thanks.
 
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