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And it did yippie! Now I know what to do on the next build. I'm now running @ 1100ma the maximum on the microboost driver. Thanks to you all
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micro boostdrive vs flexdrive from 18650 driving 445nm LD
- Thread starter laser_freak
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Great! Also, are you sure it's 1100mA? I think lava himself said it would max out at around 1200...
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So the mod on this thread is 1200ma? That's good to know
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Question, some times I have seen people post using 1N4001s in a test load, then other times referred to as 1N400x, so can I assume that I could use 1N4007s instead of 1N4001s and achieve the same result?
qumefox
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Yep. The only difference is their maximum voltage handling capability. 1N4007's are just going to be extremely overkill and cost more unless you just have some on hand. Kinda the reasons my dummy loads are 1N4003's. It's what I had.
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Technically you can use any rectifier that can handle the voltage and current. You'll just need to measure the voltage drop of the diode at that current and then use enough of them in series to emulate the voltage drop of the real diode, ~5v for 405, ~4v for 445nm, ~3v for 650, and ~2v for IR.
-Tony
-Tony
Sir, could we have a wiring diagram/schematic of how you would configure a BoostDrive to be TTL modulated?
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There's a PDF here somewhere...
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This is one of those questions of "why" to me. You are risking a diode from a spike and a test load can be made for a couple bucks.
I haven't built my 1st high power yet. Just starting off low and working up. I have an A140 445nm and a 12X Blu Ray 405nm and had read so much good abt the flex's I've held off and just got 2 now it appears that the microboost might be a better choice. I want both to use a single 18650 and have batteries and hosts for both.
If I remember right , from this thread, the microboost will be good for any build as long as the diode voltage requirements are greater than the battery voltage. So, it's not good for red or greens(IR). Is this the hole the flex fills?
If so, I'll order a couple microboosts for these builds or possibly a boost drive later on I've been working on. I dont think I have a diode that meets the need for the uniqueness of a flex.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Kevlar
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IMO, the Microboost is the way to go for the 12X blu-ray due to the high voltage required for that diode but the 445nm is fine with the Flex Drive.
gillza
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Microboost will not buck the voltage for reds (for example) like flexdrive can. Also for reds you will need to isolate the diode (in module or the module in the heatsink) from the host because its case pin is its ground pin and microboost is not continuous with battery's negative terminal.
However I ran LOC-815 using microboost and a CR123 battery (not rechargeable) and lived to talk about it
http://laserpointerforums.com/f50/micro-boost-loc-815-diode-55662.html#post786227
http://laserpointerforums.com/f50/micro-boost-loc-815-diode-55662-2.html#post786545
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/d...build-host-flexdrive-v5-55565.html#post784258
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Hey guys sorry for bringing this back up but I can't seem to find any other thread like this... anyways I was wondering which chip exactly needs to be heatsinked. I'm a noob so it won't be much help if you guys say a chipp number etc. Can you show me which one by photo or something like that? Thanks ya
DTR
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I assume you are asking about the microboost. Here is a picture from Morgans skyray build http://laserpointerforums.com/f65/dual-microboost-driven-skyray-build-1-8a-55628.html. It is the chip that has the little aluminum piece is sitting on it.
123splat
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DTR,
Nother dumb question: Does the heatsink have to be electrically isolated? Looks like there are no contact points with circuit, but I want to be sure. I have seen builds on the forum where guys are using Arctic Silver (?) to bond the driver to a coin or something. It doesn't 'look' like they are being particularly careful to isolate the sink (looks like they just smear a bunch of the adhesive in the driver and poke it on th e sink material), but, again, I would like to be sure (I blow enough dough smokin diodes, would like to save the uBoost from undue pain and suffering).
Sorry to be a ditz, but any help (especially from a knowledgable source) is appreciated.
Nother dumb question: Does the heatsink have to be electrically isolated? Looks like there are no contact points with circuit, but I want to be sure. I have seen builds on the forum where guys are using Arctic Silver (?) to bond the driver to a coin or something. It doesn't 'look' like they are being particularly careful to isolate the sink (looks like they just smear a bunch of the adhesive in the driver and poke it on th e sink material), but, again, I would like to be sure (I blow enough dough smokin diodes, would like to save the uBoost from undue pain and suffering).
Sorry to be a ditz, but any help (especially from a knowledgable source) is appreciated.
