Machinists: C6 host mod for momentary laser a la 301

[Marco Polo]

Just to make it clear from the start, I've looked at flashlights with side switches. There just aren't any that can be used for a momentary build as compact as a 301 or C6.

There is no room to install a momentary switch in a C6 host, but I got this idea after seeing a green DPSS build using two front-end tubes to fit the module.

Instead of modifying the stock host, what about an insert (i.e. extra tube segment) that goes in between the main host body and the heatsink tube? One end threads onto the host body, while the heatsink tube threads onto the insert. The insert would mount and contain an SMD momentary tac switch on a board, and also the button that the user presses to close the switch.

The result would be a slightly longer C6 that has a side button on the front end. The only problem I see is be that there is no way to put the button in the same place on multiple builds. Each different host would have the button in a different location. I have no idea what to do about that, or whether it can be solved at all. Wouldn't matter if the C6 didn't have those stupid flat spots on the sides.

Any thoughts on this, or on any kind of side-button momentary host? Should I just design a 100% custom host and go with that?

Otherwise, in terms of a momentary build I'm out of ideas. There aren't any good flashlights for it. The C6 can't be modified, and the 301 host is a PITA that would need too many custom parts. I'm to the point of giving up and saying that it simply can't be done but I am sick to death of clicky on/off. Can anyone prove me wrong, give me some ideas, a swift boot to the head, anything?

 

[crazyspaz]

Something like this?

This was done by Ehgemus. IsaacT got beat me to the first variant he had up for sale, so he made me a new one (a unique one-off, like most of his work). It uses a momentary "angel eye" switch, as they are usually called on the vast expanse of chinese sites. It is momentary- the latching versions of these switches are ~10mm longer, and don't fit in this particular host. It is about the same diamater as a c6, and a little longer as you can tell. You need a diode with a neutral case pin for this switch, however- battery positive or negative goes to one side of the switch, and a wire from the other side of the switch goes to your driver, then you just connect the diode case pin to the other driver input.

tl;dr: contact Ehgemus, hes your guy

 

[Marco Polo]

That actually looks very nice. The only thing I would add to that is a clicky on/off in the tailcap which would be a master on/off to avoid burning holes in my pockets. If it had a tail clicky then the case neutral diode requirement would be eliminated, am I correct?

I have no idea what to do, other than go custom. I've been wracking my brain over it for the better part of the last two years and no dice, I'm no closer to figuring something out than when I started.

Here is the kind of momentary switch I had wanted to use in a 301 version or replacement. 125mA rating seems low but in a 301 the button is rated at 50mA and I've never had a problem with them, so 125mA should be fine. Mount it on a piece of perfboard and that should be easy to put in a 301, right? Well, I can't figure it out. There is nothing to mount it to. Is there a way to make a bracket or something that can be setscrewed/glued into place? It looks so simple but I'm stumped.

 

[crazyspaz]

No, adding a tail switch won't eliminate the need for a case pin connection. Case pin acts as the battery connection to the driver. Say you have it set up so the battery is inserted positive end first into the host; that positive connection goes to the switch, which in tuen goes to the positive input on the driver. The negative from the battery goes through the tailcap and host, to the diode case, then from the case [pin] to the driver negative input.

Getting something custom really is the best way to go. Trying to modify one of those cheap and junky chinese hosts just isnt worth the effort or frustration.

 

[Marco Polo]

No, adding a tail switch won't eliminate the need for a case pin connection. Case pin acts as the battery connection to the driver. Say you have it set up so the battery is inserted positive end first into the host; that positive connection goes to the switch, which in tuen goes to the positive input on the driver. The negative from the battery goes through the tailcap and host, to the diode case, then from the case [pin] to the driver negative input.

Oh, I see, that makes sense. I was thinking in terms of a Flexdrive or similar that doesn't involve the diode case at all.

[eta: was late when I posted; of course that makes sense, the host is negative and the driver doesn't care if its negative is wired to the host, or something connected to the host i.e. case pin... hell, it would work in a C6 too.]

Although whether the Flexdrive would be good for momentary use is something to consider too.

[eta: turns out Flexdrive is fine for momentary use, thanks Things and Sigurthr!]

Getting something custom really is the best way to go. Trying to modify one of those cheap and junky chinese hosts just isnt worth the effort or frustration.

It really is, if the approach is to adapt a host to hobbyist drivers and components. On the other hand, I've swapped the internals of one 301 into another and it's almost plug and play; you just have to make sure the board is oriented so that the button solidly presses the switch.

So instead of modifying host components, just get the Eagle (or whatever) schematic for the driver you want to use and modify it to include a switch in the right place, then send it to a company to fab the boards. I may come back to that at a future date.

As to the Eghemus host above, I'd be really interested in knowing how that switch is mounted in there. The host is pretty much my preferred style. At the end of the day I just want to build up a set of nice momentary lasers that handle well, look good, and are durable.

Should I try to design the whole thing, inside and out? Or just the outside style and switch positions, and let the machinist handle the internals since he would have a better idea of what will/won't work than I do.