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FrozenGate by Avery

LPC-815 driver

Joined
Apr 13, 2009
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Hello, stupid question time..again....

I have done a search, but cannot find an answer that fits.

I need to build a driver for a LPC-815 Red long can diode, want to get it to abut 250-300mW.

What's the best driver to build for it and supply voltage needed?

Circuit diagram would also be handy:D

Thanks for you helps guys and girls, Fariniac.



PS: Please don't say "use the search function" I already tried it and couldn't find what I was looking for, I know it's there....just couldn't find it.
 





ahh, wasn't sure the DDL driver was suitable, always thought that was only for Blu-Ray....D'OH!!...lol
 
^the current that a DDL driver provides is determined by the resistance that you use. For a current setting that will easily drive an LOC diode to 420mA, use three 10-ohm 1/4W resistors in parallel, instead of the one 10-ohm resistor that is recommended for blu-rays. Using three 10-ohm resistors in parallel rather than one 3.3-ohm resistor allows for more power to be drawn without the resistors heating up too much.
 
Thanks for that guys :D

I know enough about electronics to be dangerous, but not enough to be useful :D
 
Fariniac;

Here is the LM317 driver diagram for Blu-Ray:
lm317bluray.jpg

For a Red LD, change the battery to 1 Lith-Ion = 4.2 VDC

Change the Resistor to 4 ohms (1/2 watt) for 312 ma current (or lower for more current).

Negative voltage changes to the center terminal on Red diode.

LarryDFW
 
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Thanks Larry, I am building that circuit for my blu-ray right now. I have it set to 89ma on a RckStr driver and I am not too impressed with it's visibility (I have it in a nice heatsink so running for a longer time is not an issue) so bumping it up to 125ma should be much better for me :D

Going to build the driver for the RED later on today, once I have finished messing about with the Blu-Ray..hehe

Cheers, Fariniac.
 
Beam visibility of Blu-ray 405nm is poor. Even after you bump it up to 125ma it still may be difficult to see the beam.
 
It's actually pretty good with the smoke machine on, just enough haze to make the beams show up nice :D

Now, I have a 30mW greenie on which the driver board heats up a lot after only about 10 seconds. The diode is very capable at that output and it has a tight beam. But this heating up has me disapointed.

What do I have to do to make a LM317T driver fit to run that greenie?

Asking a lot of very n00bish questions here I know and no doubt pushing my luck but I figure "hey, it's worth a shot" :P
 
LM317T can make even more heat than "greenie driver".
What driver do you use?
What diode do you use (current, voltage)?
Which betteries?
 
I know the LM can produce a lot of heat when lowering Volts or amps, but you can put a heatsink on a LM if you need to.


This is the module I am using atm, the driver is crap it has to be said, but the diode has a lot of power in it

http://s243333424.e-shop.info/shop/...odule-(ACC).html?shop_param=cid=14&aid=OFL27&

As for batteries, it's running off a 6V (going through 3 1n4001 diodes to lower the voltage to 4.5) on a circuit board inside a botex LS-403 Mini Graphic laser unit I bought last week for £10 :D

that 6V output from the board is meant for a fan to run from on an older revision of the board, but the connector is still active.
 
OK then.
Just measure current through diode by using 1ohm resistor.
After that use this equation: R=1.25/I
Set pot on that value or buy resistor.

That is what you need to do.
You will need higher voltage to make it work, maybe 2x14500 batteries.
 
Nice one ReNNo, I'll set it up tomorrow and give it a bash :D

Cheers for your help guys, it's been invaluable.

Fariniac.
 
Fariniac;

Here is the LM317 driver diagram for Blu-Ray:
lm317bluray.jpg

For a Red LD, change the battery to 1 Lith-Ion = 4.2 VDC

Change the Resistor to 4 ohms (1/2 watt) for 312 ma current (or lower for more current).

Negative voltage changes to the center terminal on Red diode.

LarryDFW

Just double-checking. So this WILL work with a red diode (LCC from an LPC815) and a SINGLE Li-Ion? Microdrive (rckstr) wants Vf+ approx. 2.5V, so that is out for me. Just trying to throw together some relatively inexpensive high power reds.

Edit: this worked great. I also used a 1.5W 3.3Ohm resistor to set the current. I went to radioshack and bought a 5-pack of 10-ohm resistors. 3 10 Ohm resistors paralleled is 3.33333 Ohms mathematically. This is now my most energetic burner. Smoke doesn't appear on black plastic; instead, the black surface spits up smoke.
 
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