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FrozenGate by Avery

LM3410X based boost converter, SPARK driver! PART 2

x90z75ek said:
Oh, so that's what you meant. That's good news because if they had gotten bigger, they probably wouldn't fit in small keychains. And that's one of the main reasons I want this driver.
Click to expand...
Thanks for reminder:

For those who want the for small keychain builds, let me know and I can also make the dual board fold design, or a design with a switch already on the board for space saving inside those small hosts, whatever you need for your laser so it can fit and operate nicely.

Also, perhaps someone will need some labby style bluray laser, in which case I can make bigger PCB design with good spacing between main IC and rest of components, so the IC can be outfitted with a heatsink.

Whatever you guys will need :wave:
Even a :beer: :D
 





Can you make them with a spring and a switch? And can you only do momentary switches, or can you do two-position clickies?
 
Bearded_Galaxy said:
Can you make them with a spring and a switch? And can you only do momentary switches, or can you do two-position clickies?
Click to expand...
I know for certain that I can make everything you said except the momentary switch, as I NOT sure if I have those SMD style, very tiny ones...

How small do you need your driver with a clicky switch? Where will you fit it?
I can sure make some but I don't know how small you need them.
If you need something of a 300/400mW style modules from O-like, yeah I can make something like that.

But for pen/keychain size , I can only say momentary push button for sure, at this time. Sorry.
 
Bearded_Galaxy said:
I'm interested in jayrob's first (and smallest) key chain host:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f39/fs-key-chain-build-kit-fit-10280-battery-42564.html

And his pen host:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f39/fs-new-pen-host-kits-all-parts-included-nice-22561.html

And momentary buttons are fine, just a clicky might be useful for some builds, especially lower-powered ones, where long duty cycles are OK.
Click to expand...
Well, since I do not have such hosts at hand, you or jayrob will have to give me measurements of lenghts between
Switch center and diode's pins
Switch center and battery end

So I can design it to be plug'n'play, simply solder the driver to the diode, and insert everything into the host.

Now, jayrob sells two different pens, one is black and one is chrome, and they are different lenghts, which results in different switch-diode measurement, so I have to know what type will you use (I think I have one black on the way).

Enjoy! :D
 
Eudaimonium said:
So I can design it to be plug'n'play, simply solder the driver to the diode, and insert everything into the host.
Click to expand...

For both, it would be far easier, since they're press-fit, to just solder short, flexible leads to the driver. For the pens, it would just need to work with the plastic thingie that goes inside, which I imagine isn't too much trouble. And with the other one, the key chain: it's hard to see in jayrob's pictures, but I've purchased that flashlight, and the circuit board fits in a couple notches, and then the head screws down onto it to hold it in place, so it'd just need to fit the height and width requirements with a close tolerance. It can extend into the head a little way, but it kind of needs "shoulders" to be held in by the top piece. next time I get one, I can take a photo and show you.
 
Bearded_Galaxy said:
For both, it would be far easier, since they're press-fit, to just solder short, flexible leads to the driver. For the pens, it would just need to work with the plastic thingie that goes inside, which I imagine isn't too much trouble. And with the other one, the key chain: it's hard to see in jayrob's pictures, but I've purchased that flashlight, and the circuit board fits in a couple notches, and then the head screws down onto it to hold it in place, so it'd just need to fit the height and width requirements with a close tolerance. It can extend into the head a little way, but it kind of needs "shoulders" to be held in by the top piece. next time I get one, I can take a photo and show you.
Click to expand...
Jeez, I really don't understand a word you said, I have no Idea what you talkin' about :crackup:

When you have some pics and dimensions, PM me and we will work something out.
 
Bearded_Galaxy said:
Yes, indeed, I will. So, will you be able to sell these for less than a FlexDrive?
Click to expand...
I'd trade one driver for one PHR sled or something equivalent.
So yeah, definetly cheaper than flexdrive.

I just wish I could get away with cheaper shippement, I have a $6shippement fee to start with :mad:
If that would be any cheaper, perhaps I'd get it under $10 or something.

I don't know the specifics yet, but i will let all'ya know for sure, soon enough.
 
*Is totally psyched about this* Now, all you have to do is make a buck driver, then you may just have a monopoly! :D I like the FlexDrive, but being a poor college student with no job, I'm not too happy spending $26 on a two-function circuit board when I only need one function. I'm really tempted to go, almost exclusively, to rckstr, just because the price is so much better, and efficiency isn't a major problem for me, considering how little I actually use these. I think I will for my next pen build, then I can just use two AAA lithiums and I'll be fine.
 
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Bearded_Galaxy said:
*Is totally psyched about this* Now, all you have to do is make a buck driver, then you may just have a monopoly! :D I like the FlexDrive, but being a poor college student with no job, I'm not too happy spending $26 on a two-function circuit board when I only need one function. I'm really tempted to go, almost exclusively, to rckstr, just because the price is so much better, and efficiency isn't a major problem for me, considering how little I actually use these. I think I will for my next pen build, then I can just use two AAA lithiums and I'll be fine.
Click to expand...

Tell me about it...
Why do you think I build my own drivers?
two reasons
1)I cannot afford a flexdrive also
2)I like everything in my laser built by me, otherwise it's not exactly my laser, is it?

No offence or anything, I understand if you cannot build you own drivers - you have to buy them.

Don't get so excited yet my man, I am yet to order some parts, which sure will take time to arrive.
You will be first to know when I have some drivers for trade.
 
I don't have the knowledge to build a buck or boost driver on my own. I *could* build a linear driver, with an LM317, but I can't hand-make one of those small, especially since I don't have a way of getting or making circuit boards.
 
Bearded_Galaxy said:
I don't have the knowledge to build a buck or boost driver on my own. I *could* build a linear driver, with an LM317, but I can't hand-make one of those small, especially since I don't have a way of getting or making circuit boards.
Click to expand...
I assure you that it is very easy and simple to build.
Especialy when working with SMD components.

Tell me honestly now, how difficult does THIS look:
PA234913.jpg


That is a LM1117 driver, you see only 4 components:
LM1117 SOT23 SMD case
12 ohm resistor (big one)
470 ohm resistor (small one)
Output capacitor.

PCB is small enough to fit into back end of Aixiz, but simple enough to make in 5 minutes.
Perhaps an SOT23-5 casing (lm 3410) is too tiny for beginner soldering, but this is not too difficult (with right soldering iron OFC)

Like with all things in life - practise, practise, practise. And some more practise :)

Skill does not come with time, comes with practising.
 
Bearded_Galaxy said:
That circuit you have there, isn't it linear (with a dropout voltage)?
Click to expand...
Yes it is , LM1117 (same as LM317 except the dropout voltage is only half of 317).

I just banged that pic at random, to ask how difficult you think this is to make.
If you think it is very difficult, you are wrong.
LM3410X boost converter PCB is smaller than that, and a bit more difficult to solder without some precision tweezers and helping hands (and some experience ofc).

But this linear regulator is far more simpler to make and solder.
As they say, baby steps first.. :D

Not that I am discouraging you or anything, just saying that you are maybe underestimating yourself here.
 
I really want to take electrical engineering classes, and learn about this stuff, so that I could do it on my own someday. So, why do most people talk about LM317 drivers instead of LM1117 if the latter has a lower dropout voltage? Is it noticeably more expensive, is that why?

I'd like to see something like the Groove driver, with a 1V dropout, the size of a rckstr driver. The spec sheet for his regulator says it's only a 1V dropout regulator, but because of other stuff he has on there it's all the way up to 2.25V, which makes it a pain to use on 2 lithium cells and a Blu-Ray diode.
 
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