Liteon 24x

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Hey guys I'm thinking about building another red laser since I have a 24x burner on hand, I know it would be easier to buy the harvested diode, however I already have the burner. I noticed from threads on this forum that the diode is in an odd shaped heat sink, can the heat sink be totally cut away so that the diode fits in a regular Axis module?
Another question is, whats the best driver to use, I see some of you all say that it can run at 400mA safely, but I just need to be sure, and should I use the LM317 driver? Isn't that like the most inefficient driver there is? (Sorry I don't understand)..
What voltage would I need to run it at, whats the best driver and why, and what mA, to get the most out of it..Please please help me, I'm sorry I am asking novice questions but I really rather find out for sure that play around and screw up my build, thanks in advance guys.

 

[LuxorLasers147]

I only know the 22x diode which is a Long Closed Can type, what´s yours like?

You can put it in a vice and carefully file both sides oh the heatsink as close to the diode as possible and then grab it with 2 pliers and give it a twist. Its not easy but there are videos showing how to do it.

About the driver and current, it all depends on the place you want to put it. If you use a decent heatsink around the module, 420mA should be fine and you get around 250mW.

 

[Fretwrecker94]

AFAIK, the 24x's only have square plastic diodes. No good for use. I've only seen one user successfully implement one into a build. And it required machining a custom hole into an AixiZ module. It would be FAR easier to use 22x and under

 

[sinner]

From my experience, DVD Burners other than Sony manufactured before the year 2008 work pretty darn well.. most LG and samsung ones have LPC in it (2007 models),
hp Burners are mostly closed can, they can handle 350~360mA quite easily that is offcourse a 16x~18x , but in most 22x~24x that were manufactured in 2010 onwards are useless , Unless you have a specific model which has already been opened by someone and reviewed and happens to have a treasure in it!!

 

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Ok I haven't actually opened the drive as yet so I can't tell exactly what type of diode it is, reason is I would like to know is it even makes sense, if not I will just keep it to burn dvds
There is a thread on this forum where a guy uses the burner I have, the box is identical
There is th thread
I know theres a possiblity that the diode maybe be different even if the burner comes in the same box..But this guy didn't totally remove the heat sink from the diode, is it because it can't be removed?
As LuxorLasers747 said, could he cut and then break away the heat sink to get the raw diode? Or is it build into the heat sink?
About the driver, would a liner driver be a good choice? Or is there a better choice? And how much volts whould these red diodes run at?
Thanks alot for you replies guys, really appreciate a whole lot!

 

[sinner]

The thing is, the Original package of the diode is plastic.. in a small squarish heatsink..
Even if u put silver adhesive and whatnot it will not conduct heat , not sufficient..
It wont last long even you somehow get it to work so its not worth ruining a perfectly fine dvd buner..
Just buy a $7~8 lpc 815 sled from ghostchrome or scopeguy20.. modwerx.com also has some good stuff for beginners and its cheap as it can get..

 

[LuxorLasers147]

Ok I haven't actually opened the drive as yet so I can't tell exactly what type of diode it is, reason is I would like to know is it even makes sense, if not I will just keep it to burn dvds
There is a thread on this forum where a guy uses the burner I have, the box is identical
There is th thread
I know theres a possiblity that the diode maybe be different even if the burner comes in the same box..But this guy didn't totally remove the heat sink from the diode, is it because it can't be removed?
As LuxorLasers747 said, could he cut and then break away the heat sink to get the raw diode? Or is it build into the heat sink?
About the driver, would a liner driver be a good choice? Or is there a better choice? And how much volts whould these red diodes run at?
Thanks alot for you replies guys, really appreciate a whole lot!

Lets see how it turns out to be

About the driver, I repeat, it all depends of the pace you´re gonna install it. For e.g. if your building a Labby, probably your best choise would be a linear driver based on the LM1085, wich is alot more efficient than the LM317. You would need around 6< input but thats fine cuz its a labby, and if you have a good sized heatsink you can push it between 420-500mA for 300mW.
DONT worry about the voltage going to the diode, worry about the resistors that will set your current. Voltage will meet the desire current.

If your building it in a flashlight, say the Aurora C6, you could still use the LM1085 with 8.4v from two 16340 batteries just fine.

But if your`re using a C3 her smaller cousin, you cant use a linear beacuse that host takes a single 14500 and its to small to house the 1085. You would need a buck/boost driver like the Flexdrive.

 

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But if you look at the link I just posted, you'll see the diode that the guy extractedfrom the sled, it is not the same as you explained..

 

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Thanks for the info LuxorLasers747, very helpful.
I'm think about building a hand held (Flash light), I understand the concept of the two batteries working with the liner, since the liner actually uses volts itself, and the booast\buck for the single battery. What volt exactly does this diode run at? I'm asking since you said use 6v with the LM1085 for laby and 8.4v same driver with the LM1085 for hand held, wont the difference in voltage matter?
Also would build will give better run time? The two batteries with the liner driver or the single battery with the boost\buck?

 

[bloompyle]

But if you look at the link I just posted, you'll see the diode that the guy extractedfrom the sled, it is not the same as you explained..

It's exactly how he explained. If you were to remove the heatsink, you would get a really thin black piece of plastic with 3 pins side by side. However, if you plan to use it for a build, DO NOT remove the heatsink, if you are determined to get a unique build with a flat red (something nobody seems to recognize :na Then some machining, and thermal adhesive is required. Here's a build a fellow member did. I plan on doing a flat red build eventually, just for uniqueness.

 

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Thanks for explaining that to me, I totally understand now, I think I would follow the advice of just getting a harvested diode that would fit into an Axis module..any advice on the best performing red there is at the moment? And what mA does it run at?

 

[sinner]

LPC-826 would suffice, handles 510mA very well ~300mW single mode, best there is!

 

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Awesome! I will look around for it on the forum, do you by chance have a link to anyone that sells them for a good price?
How much volts does this Diode require? Can it work with one 3.7v? Or do I need two?

 

[LuxorLasers147]

Sorry just forgot to get back to you about this.

The more current you feed a laser, the more voltage will be needed to support it.

650nm Red`s usually work on 2.8 - 3.3v if i´m not mistaken.

About the driver, If your using say the flex, wich can buck and boost, you will have great run time with one 3.7 cell because when charged, it reatches 4.2 so the driver will buck (convert excess voltage in more current) between 4.2-3.3v and then when the battery drains below 3.3v it will boost (convert excess current into more voltage to maintain steady current to the laser.

EDIT: About the input voltage in a linear. If your 1084 has a dropout voltage of 2v (in the worst case) you will need an input 2v higher then the diodes voltage, at your desire current. So 3.3 + 2 = 5.3 volts input.
Keep in mind that the resistor will also drop some voltage into heat, so will need always more than 5.3v input. Thats why i said 6v<. From two 16340 in series, 8.4v, your batteries can drop 2.4v before you have to recharge them.

Hope this helps.