Light saber style host

[4fools]

Hello this is my first real laser host build made of some camera parts that were going to be thrown away.

Was wondering to go with a numb44 diode and the driver from DTRs shop with the temp sensor, or the driver that comes standard in the options of the diode at his shop.

I have made a few 2w lasers from eBay parts in Altoids containers. But the numb44 is a big step up but I want to do this professional because of the nice host and don't want to regret going with a lesser diode aswell.

I had to resize the photo so it looks a lot longer IRL and is about 12in long

 

[paul1598419]

I'm assuming you are trying to use the camera lens as a beam expander. Before you can do this, you need to have a collimator lens as close to the diode as possible. Most people prefer a single element aspherical lens, such as a G-2, over multi-element lenses. Once you have that lens focused to infinity, then you'll be able to make adjustments to the camera lens to get a reasonable beam expander.

 

[diachi]

I'm assuming you are trying to use the camera lens as a beam expander. Before you can do this, you need to have a collimator lens as close to the diode as possible. Most people prefer a single element aspherical lens, such as a G-2, over multi-element lenses. Once you have that lens focused to infinity, then you'll be able to make adjustments to the camera lens to get a reasonable beam expander.

My interpretation was that OP wants to use the bundle of camera lenses as the laser host itself... :thinking:

 

[paul1598419]

If that is in fact the case, 4fools needs to rethink this project entirely. The NUBM44 diode needs LOTS of heat sinking and most use a massive piece of copper to accomplish that. I thought he already knew that much. Also, you will need to use lots of power to supply the driver as it takes quite a few amp hours to get the 7 watts of optical power plus the massive amount of heat power which is lost. If it is a handheld laser, I'd use a couple of 26650 batteries. If it is going to be a labby I would use a 12 volt 5 amp power supply at least, with a buck driver.

 

[diachi]

If that is in fact the case, 4fools needs to rethink this project entirely. The NUBM44 diode needs LOTS of heat sinking and most use a massive piece of copper to accomplish that. I thought he already knew that much. Also, you will need to use lots of power to supply the driver as it takes quite a few amp hours to get the 7 watts of optical power plus the massive amount of heat power which is lost. If it is a handheld laser, I'd use a couple of 26650 batteries. If it is going to be a labby I would use a 12 volt 5 amp power supply at least, with a buck driver.

Going to need to stuff some serious copper inside the lens housings or whatever they are to soak up all that heat that's for sure. I don't imagine lens bodies have the best thermal characteristics either ... Maybe wise to have the copper heatsink sticking out the end some, for better dissipation to air.

 

[paul1598419]

Going to need to stuff some serious copper inside the lens housings or whatever they are to soak up all that heat that's for sure. I don't imagine lens bodies have the best thermal characteristics either ... Maybe wise to have the copper heatsink sticking out the end some, for better dissipation to air.

:crackup:
Yeah, I assumed he would know that he needs a new host for this build. Since he hasn't posted since the OP, I guess we'll have to wait and see if he does.

 

[Vetttech]

Aside from all the great advice above, i think the host looks great! Looks like something strait out of Star Wars! I like it!!! Now you just need a large copper ingot to machine a huge heat sink to fill the cavity of that host. :yh:LOL

 

[4fools]

was hoping to get a copper module from dtr and drill some holes in it and put some liquid cooling with the radiator being the pommel of the hilt, I know that it will probably have a small battery life using only 2 1865 cells, but its mostly meant to look cool The camera lense is full aluminum in the main part of the hilt, I do not plan on using any of the camera lenses, its just for the case to hold it all together and look cool and to go with the original way light sabers we created on the movies using camera parts as the hilt.

 

[Vetttech]

was hoping to get a copper module from dtr and drill some holes in it and put some liquid cooling with the radiator being the pommel of the hilt, I know that it will probably have a small battery life using only 2 1865 cells, but its mostly meant to look cool The camera lense is full aluminum in the main part of the hilt, I do not plan on using any of the camera lenses, its just for the case to hold it all together and look cool and to go with the original way light sabers we created on the movies using camera parts as the hilt.

It has a authentic battle worn look! I look forward to seeing it completed with a nice beam shot photo. Have fun and good luck! :beer:

 

[4fools]

Also I think I should add that I have a lathe and mill, so and ideas needing one are welcome.

 

[4fools]

The liquid cooling was just a idea, but, should I go with the laser driver with the temperature sensor, or the driver that is in the module in DTRs shop?

 

[BobMc]

Looks like it could be an interesting build. Looking forward to the finished project.

Water cooled? Gotta see how this one works. :thinking: lots of pictures please. Best wishes.

 

[paul1598419]

The liquid cooling was just a idea, but, should I go with the laser driver with the temperature sensor, or the driver that is in the module in DTRs shop?

That driver needs to be heat sinked to a large piece of copper and not inside the module like was done in the M140 diodes. It will get blisteringly hot almost immediately. You will want to wire the diode to the driver with some good stranded heavy gauge wire. Otherwise, this project will fail before it gets started.