Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

Lazerer 1W Stick Problem

Joined
Jan 29, 2012
Messages
32
Points
0
I just got my new 1W Blue laser pointer yesterday from Lazerer and I used it for a couple of hours and then it started to go dim the laser. So I thought it was just the battery. I charge the two batteries it came with until the charger showed green and put the batteries in but still the same thing. Does anyone know what's wrong with my laser?

Video: 1w blue laser not working - YouTube
 
Last edited:





Do you have a multimeter to check the batteries?
If you're 100% sure the batteries are charged and ok, try bypassing the clicky switch to check if the diode and driver are still ok.
 
Try different batteries the laser will work with 2xCR123 3.0V or 3.6V or 3.7V and you can also use 2xCR2 if you use aluminum foil to bypass the clicky switch. If all else fails contact Max for a replacement the laser does have a 1 month warranty.
 
Try different batteries the laser will work with 2xCR123 3.0V or 3.6V or 3.7V and you can also use 2xCR2 if you use aluminum foil to bypass the clicky switch. If all else fails contact Max for a replacement the laser does have a 1 month warranty.

Thanks, I'll try that and see if it works.
 
Keep in mind a lot of Lazerer's 1W and 1.2W blues now use a Linear driver which will not function when cell votlage drops below 3.5V (such as my Rifle V2), so you can't use primary lithium cells in it.

The chargers typically turn green at 4.0V, but Li-Ions are fully charged at 4.2V, so its best to leave it in until that point.
 
Keep in mind a lot of Lazerer's 1W and 1.2W blues now use a Linear driver which will not function when cell votlage drops below 3.5V (such as my Rifle V2), so you can't use primary lithium cells in it.

The chargers typically turn green at 4.0V, but Li-Ions are fully charged at 4.2V, so its best to leave it in until that point.

you mean 7V? It uses 2x16340 batteries which the ones that come with it are 3.6V. I use 3.7V in mine but it works just fine with 2x3.0V CR123 batteries. I'm not sure if you are talking about both the batteries put together or just one cause if it is just one you are talking about then the stick does not have a linear driver cause as I said I can use 3.0V batteries and it works just fine I don't even notice the difference from 3.0V to 3.7V. I don't have an LPM to test it though
 
Last edited:
I mean 3.5V PER cell, aka cell voltage, not total voltage. Yes, total voltage would be 7V.

If you can use a SINGLE 18650 it has a Boost or Buck/Boost, but if it doesn't work then it has a Buck or Linear. They may not have the same buck or linear as the rifle (if the stick does use one) though. 3.7V batteries are areally 4.2V, standard Li-Ion stuff, they're just marked as 3.7V and in cases involving short wavelength lasers without a Boost or Buck/Boost driver output power will drop significantly at 3V as this is the cutoff voltage for Li-Ions (as in when it hits 3.0V you STOP using it and recharge the battery or prepare to buy a new cell).
 
Last edited:
I tried new Batteries and it still doesn't work. Also when I first got it the beam wasn't a straight beam you could barely see the beam.
 
Last edited:
Internal damage during shipping does happen, contact Max through the Lazerer contact form and request a replacement, he'll set it right.
 
I have the same laser. I had the same problem. The driver needs Li-ion (+3.5v) per cell minimum x2. As others have explained this = a total of 7v minimum to get the laser to fire at full intensity. IF this fails to work, it may be the tail cap shorting out on you.

I was able to use 1x 18650 for a very low power beam... maybe 200mW for upto 2 minutes before the laser dimmed the same way yours did.
 


Back
Top