LPF Site Supporter
- Jul 10, 2015
It is 25x0.5mm.
The Beam expander adapter was machined in decent precision. And there is always some tolerance in regard of machining but it is 25x0.5mm, metric system instead of British system.
In the pic you attached, the pitch didnot fit the threads. I highlighted it in the pic attached.
Feel free to message me if you have any questions,
As it turns out the aluminum tube that I'm pressing into the heat sink has a ID of 25mm so I can thread the end of that tube and screw the beam expander directly in to the tube and the laser module will be right behind it as close or as far away from the beam expander as I like !Accutronitis, all I can say is that my particular B.E. is not 0.5mm, that pic with the 0.75 was taken trying to balance the gauge on a box top while I photographed it. I know it doesn't look perfect, but it's damn close, you also saw the other photo with the 0.5mm lens barrel next to it, and you can see that those two threads aren't anywhere close to the same.
Now, that is not saying that they are not 0.5mm now, they may very well be!
Please be sure and let us know what yours turns out to be when you get it today; if you don't have your tap yet, just hold a 9 x 0.5mm lens holder up next to it to compare pitches.
Good luck with your B.E. adapter! :beer:
RedCowboy: I used a quad polymer elastic stretch cord method of temporary attachment. [/QUOTE said:This is just to funny, that got a smile ( a rubber band )
Very informative thread, thanks, I've got a 10x coming with a mini that I bought, looking forward to seeing what it can do. Thanks again for the chuckles.
I'm making a second post because this is a parallel line of questioning....
For correction of the fast axes couldn't a Anamorphic Prism Pair work as well as Cylindrical Lenses before the beam enters a beam expander ?
Man that would be great ! There is so much power in a 44 it would be great keep as much as possible by not clipping the beam and at the same time focus all that's left after the all the lens down to as small a point as possible at a distance ! :drool:If we could replace the input lens with a slightly wider opening in the retainer ( Just drill it out a tad ) and a lower power ratio of maybe 5X, then that would be great, we just need someone who can calculate the right lens....maybe JET could offer us one to modify our expanders, a lens and retainer package for our MM blue diode beams.
That's what I was thinking, the fast axis diverges so wide so fast coming out of the diode that when you collimate it with the collimating lens the beam ends up all the way from one side of the lens to the other and the way I see it is you really don't want to have to narrow the now parallel light just to try to keep it from clipping as it enters the BE, if the input lens was larger that might do the trick ???We really need a redesigned input lens
I'm thinking if the BE input lens was larger to prevent clipping AND it had the right shape to only expand the beam no larger that the BE output lens and at the right focal length so the output lens can focus the now expanded beam back down to a small point at a longer distance, If that makes any sense ???likely a wider and longer expander in the end as well
I can't help but wonder if there might be some clipping taking place even before entering the collimating lens but this is all very new to me and I really haven't had enough time to do very much testing to get a handle on how that laser stuff does what it does yet ??? I've been spending so much time getting my "Thor's Hammer" host ready for the 44 diode (I've had to do everything by hand mostly) that it's taken a lot of time to build this host the way I've wanted that at the moment I'm pretty worn down, But the aluminum tube I've been waiting for has finally shown up and i'm fitting it to the heat sink as I'm typing this, So I should have first light by tonight....although the G2 will expand faster and in shorter distance.
I don't have a G2 lens yet but I ordered one from DTR that should be here in a few day......I wonder if you left your input lens out and fiddled with the adjustment of your G2 so that it's bar shaped output would fill the output lens of the 10X be when screwed all the way out what we would get?