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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Is this symptom a laser driver issue ?

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1) can the batteries that you are using sustain the load
required by your laser over an extended period of time ?? Yes

2) have you recorded the voltage and current going to
your Laser during your tests ?? voltage yes current no

3) Do you have a calibrated working Laser Power Meter ?? I think you already know I don't or why would I be testing it the way I am ?

4) what current is your driver set at and which driver is it ?? This is the driver....

Ok you've colorized my answers, Now what ?
 
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Sorry I jumped the gun.....

1) what are the voltage readings over time ?? They hold steady at close to 3.7 using two VOM's with one tapped on each battery and after 3 tests in a row the batterys are still at 3.7v

2) What are the voltage readings before and after the temp drops ?? only just a very slight rise

2a) what are the current readings before and after the temp drops ?? I told you I don't have current readings

3) you stated that you had a Laser B LPM.... I said that in a attempt to get anyone unable to look pass the way in which I obtained the results that showed that the power output was dropping in a predictable and repeatable way.....
 
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I've also ran the test with a dif set of batteries and with a recharge after ever test And the output power dropped in a predictable and repeatable way during every test.....
 

diachi

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I'd probably blame that shit-tier looking driver... Looks like one of those cheap eBay drivers.
 
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I told you I don't have current readings

Then you need to buy a DMM with ammeter function. If you can afford a laser, you can afford a DMM. Drive current is by far the largest determining factor in laser output, and inability to measure current means you're dead in the water.
 
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Then you need to buy a DMM with ammeter function. If you can afford a laser, you can afford a DMM. Drive current is by far the largest determining factor in laser output, and inability to measure current means you're dead in the water.
I understand and I will get all the tools I need when I can, But for a $50 ebay laser I don't want to spend any money unnecessarily on it, Really it burns great for 20 seconds and then it falls off a cliff, it seems to me that the diode is plenty good enough sooooo...
 
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I'd probably blame that shit-tier looking driver... Looks like one of those cheap eBay drivers.


That's what I was thinking but I just wanted to hear someone else say it ! lol

I've read a few reviews of this laser and using a REAL laser power meter the output wattage was 1.332 watts so what amperage laser driver should I get for it ?
 
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diachi

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Also, Accutronitis, please avoid double posting in threads. Use the edit button instead. It's bad etiquette to double post.
 

Rivem

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That's what I was thinking but I just wanted to hear someone else say it ! lol

I've read a few reviews of this laser and using a REAL laser power meter the output wattage was 1.332 watts so what amperage laser driver should I get for it ?

Probably at least 1 amp for a 445nm around that power. Look up the datasheet for your particular diode to be sure.

Don't get a sketchy one from China if you want decent performance. Use a test load and DMM to adjust before connecting the LD if you want to avoid damage.
 
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Every one here has the right to respond to your questions
in the way they please... You are on a public Forum. If you
don't want to hear any answers then don't ask questions.

I haven't heard any answers yet



Cyp is correct in stating that an IR temperature gun is not
a Laser Power Meter or was it designed to be one. It is a
non-contact thermometer and the way you are using it
only screams that you may have overheated the IR sensor
and it changes output.

Read below there is no way to overheat the IR sensor in the second test I did, The laser is behaving exactly as I have already described



It is like trying to cut vegetables with a mop. A mop was
not designed to cut vegetables..


That the worst analogy I've ever heard !



You also stated that you repeated the same tests multiple
times with the same batteries without recharging.


yes I did so unless the batteries are recovering a lot in just a few minutes it's not the batteries



I just ran a test with the ir gun reading the surface of a black sheet of paper and on the other side of the sheet of paper I have the unfocused laser light, [Start test] the temp shoots way up very quickly and stabilizes within 5 seconds and holds steady for 20 seconds and then starts to drop some what quickly until 60 seconds goes by and I stop the test with the temp being almost half of what it was at the start !!!

I know what the output is doing ! My only question is with the symptoms of a laser that holds steady for about 20 and then rapidly drops in power output until it's around half the power at 60 second into the test and the test is stopped, Now all I what to know is could this possibly be a diode issue or is it almost certainly a driver issue ???
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Probably at least 1 amp for a 445nm around that power. Look up the datasheet for your particular diode to be sure.

Don't get a sketchy one from China if you want decent performance. Use a test load and DMM to adjust before connecting the LD if you want to avoid damage.
where can I get a test load ?
 
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Also, Accutronitis, please avoid double posting in threads. Use the edit button instead. It's bad etiquette to double post.
when have I double posted ??? I don't believe I have ???
 
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diachi

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I just ran a test with the ir gun reading the surface of a black sheet of paper and on the other side of the sheet of paper I have the unfocused laser light, [Start test] the temp shoots way up very quickly and stabilizes within 5 seconds and holds steady for 20 seconds and then starts to drop some what quickly until 60 seconds goes by and I stop the test with the temp being almost half of what it was at the start !!!

I know what the output is doing ! My only question is with the symptoms of a laser that holds steady for about 20 and then rapidly drops in power output until it's around half the power at 60 second into the test and the test is stopped, Now all I what to know is could this possibly be a diode issue or is it almost certainly a driver issue ???
__________________



Feels like a broken record in here...

I'd put money on it being that low quality driver (as I've already said). Measure the voltage across the diode when running, tell us what that's doing, if that's dropping then that would point to the driver, seeing as we've apparently ruled out batteries. That or something weird is going on with the LD but that seems much less likely.

The other option is (as I've already said) is to swap the driver and see if the issue persists.

Edit:

when have I double posted ??? I don't believe I have ???

You just triple posted... three posts, one after the other.

Also, you can make a test load, or buy one from someone. Use the search bar at the bottom of the forum.
 
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Feels like a broken record in here...

I'd put money on it being that low quality driver (as I've already said). Measure the voltage across the diode when running, tell us what that's doing, if that's dropping then that would point to the driver, seeing as we've apparently ruled out batteries. That or something weird is going on with the LD but that seems much less likely.

The other option is (as I've already said) is to swap the driver and see if the issue persists.

Edit:



You just triple posted... three posts, one after the other.

Also, you can make a test load, or buy one from someone. Use the search bar at the bottom of the forum.
I thought you meant two of the same posts back to back, I'm sorry but when you have more than one person asking you questions and all at the same time bad etiquette or not it's the only way to stay caught up.....

If two people ask me a question back to back that would mean to keep from double posting I could only answer one of them and I would have to wait for someone to post before I could answer the second question ?

I don't like to address more than one person in a single post and instead prefer to address each person individually....
 
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Probably at least 1 amp for a 445nm around that power. Look up the datasheet for your particular diode to be sure.

Don't get a sketchy one from China if you want decent performance. Use a test load and DMM to adjust before connecting the LD if you want to avoid damage.
If I bought a "X-drive V6 1100mA Fixed" would I need to adjust it ? or could I even adjust a fixed driver ?
 




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