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FrozenGate by Avery

How the case pins work with red and phr 805t?

Laik

Laik

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Jan 22, 2013
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I was wondering how it works when you connect a red diode positive and negative to the driver and then the positive input of the driver is connected to the battery and the negative goes to the negative/case pin, how is it regulated through the driver, wouldn't it go to the diode before it went to the driver? I also read a thread on a phr 805t build where the negative/case pin and the negative from the battery was not connected to the driver at all. I have already searched the forum, can someone please explain this to me?
 





Thanks, that kinda helps but how does it work when a case negative diode like a red or phr 805t is wired up like in this thread http://laserpointerforums.com/f50/b50-powerlight-660nm-build-69960.html wouldnt the current just go straight to the diode and not the driver? Btw i am impatient and it was my first build, i had the diode sitting in the module with leads soldered onto it for a mnth and wanted to see if it worked cause it took quite a bit of heat from an 80W soldering iron so i touched the leads to the battery (with no driver, yes i know i am not supposed to run it without a driver) i was just wondering, it wouldnt have done anything to the diode if it was just running for literally 1 second? Thanks!
 
Actually misread your post thought you were building a PHR803T!

Anyway it depends on your driver and whether it regulates on the positive or negative side. What are you using?

Edit: Cant say whether you killed it. Did it flash brightly then go dim? PHR's (805's) can only take approx 150 mA so you could easily kill it...
 
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Just wondering in general but i am going to be using a mighty famous X-Drive V6 from DA BOOWWWSSS!!! (Lazeerer :D)
 
I dont know whether the output ground is continuous on that driver and I only have a V7 boost here, so I can't test it...You can check however just put a MM on the lowest Ohm setting and place the leads across the neg in and diode neg out, on the driver. If there is no, or almost no, resistance gnd is continuous and its not a prob, you can connect the neg of the battery to the neg pin on the diode if you wish. If however, gnd is not continuous then you must isolate the diode from the host. You can do this by using an anodized heat sink which will hold your module.:beer:
 
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Thanks, so it doesn't hurt your diode if you just run the negative straight from the battery?
 
Ughhh sorry bout that had a mind fart. If the driver is gnd continuous you can go direct from the battery to the diode but if the driver is not gnd continuous then you must isolate the diode and hook it all up through the driver? I know you said this, im just making sure :)
 
Yup (if NOT gnd continuous on driver) you need to make sure that the case, ie the metal on the host, doesn't have electrical contact to the diode otherwise you get a short and it will bypass the driver. Have a read of the link I just added to the post above. It may help a little. :beer:
 
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Thanks, havn't read it yet but looks very helpful :) So what do you think hooking a phr 805t up to a 3.7V lion for literally 1 second, would it damage it?
 
The 405nm diodes are very sensitive. You can kill it by direct hooking it on the battery.
 
Very possible. As I asked above, did it flash and then go dim? If it did you may have killed it, if not you maybe lucky. Youll have to wire up the driver to find out. I trust your driver is set at, or below, 150 mA?
 
For literally 1 second? I think mine is pretty tough because it can handle an 80W soldering iron and that it was my first time soldering a diode.

Edit: Driver is set to 120mA and like i said only had it on there for 1 sec and raw (no lens in module). From what i saw in that 1 sec it stayed the same brightness.
 
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How do you know it could handle it? You won't know until its hooked up to a driver and you see, or can at least measure, the output. Guessing you don't have an LPM, but if the output looks very dim or LED like its probably dead. Also, if you heated the pins on your diode for longer than 1 second or even used a big blob of solder, you could have easily killed it. Direct driving it is another sure way to kill it, if you haven't already via the other methods...;) Time will tell:beer:
 
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The parts should be here very soon, I will share with you how it works out, i could have got a tank diode ;) haha I also got a new vice today because my dads crappy one doesnt even clamp straight. It took much arguing for him to let me by it and even more to let me keep it on carpet in my room haha. I also got a new 40W soldering iron. My driver host and helping hands should show up in a few days hopefully. Im normally hate spending money, but when it comes to lasers it just falls out of my wallet, i ordered a 200mw green module and a rayfoss looking host off ebay and im making a 100mw green for my friend ill make a thread on when i complete the 3 builds.
 
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