How the case pins work with red and phr 805t?

[ApexProxy]

I may be a little late here but...

X-Drives are continuous negative and PHR 805t diodes are case negative. This means, if you can actually try and maximize the ground connection through your diode module and heatsink to the host you may not even need to bother with the negative on the driver or the diode.

If you are not careful and direct drive just about any diode you can kill it faster than you can even react.

Technical exception to the above rule:
Granted this only happens in the cases that you need a linear or a buck driver since builds that use boost drivers have an input voltage that is less than that of the forward voltage of the diode. In this case the diode would actually be under driven and have weak output. An example of this would be a single cell M140 build.

 

[Laik]

Thanks for that and yeah i killed a diode but it could of been from the soldering or the first time i touched it to the battery, i think it was the soldering. I have a second diode that i pressed into an aixiz mosule and i am going to wait until i get my helping hands before i solder it. The heat sink set screw is just on the edge of the aixiz module (just before it steps down and then threads) so if i do the set screw up too tight it just slips off. I think i stripped the set screw head a little as well. Hopefully all my stuff will come in the next few days.

 

[ApexProxy]

If you touched it to a battery directly that is definitely what killed it, hands down. At that voltage the diode could draw an easy 10x the maximum current it can handle so it was dead instantly. It likely died so fast it didn't even percievably flash. I have seen this happen myself.

About the module and setscrew issue, I have had that same problem in the past. I remedied it by pushing in the module just enough to where the setscrew wouldn't pop over the edge. Its sort of an ugly fix but it works.

 

[Laik]

Yeah, i figured i would have to do that. It kind of annoys me though cause im one of those people that if they are going to do something, they will do it right or not at all (well most of the time ) So having that slightly recessed module is a bit annoying. I can't wait until i get the driver from lazeerer i will post my build once i complete it

EDIT: If the driver is continuous, can you wire it all up like normal if you had an anodized heat sink e.g. Driver connected to pill, diode connected to driver. No wires missing?

 

[ApexProxy]

Of course you can. I would actually suggest doing this regardless just so you know that you always have a sold connection. You may not add the full wiring if space restrictions prevent it or if you know that you will get a super solid connection without the extra soldering.

 

[Laik]

Thanks, i just soldered the leads onto the new diode, i took pictures but they are very bad. They are worse than just phone snapshots :/

EDIT: What would happen if you wired everything up and had a case negative diode and a continuous driver but the diode wasn't isolated from the host, wouldn't the driver get confused?