How do you test your laser drivers?

[RedCowboy]

No quarrel just a little jocularity, I like to use solid copper wire that fits snug and a tiny bit of solder so I can remove the wires without plugging up the holes in the driver, but I have thought about making a jig just haven't done it, I enjoyed seeing your efforts.

 

[reloader45]

Hello,

attached you will find pictures of tmy laser driver test jig 2.0.
I like this construction, because it is simple to contact any driver with this jig.
I made the connection rods from 1,6 mm bronze TIG welding wire. This rods are hard enough to produce sufficient tension to the contact area.
Two contacts are fixed but swiveling, the other two contacts can be adjusted by slotted holes.
At the momenet, I am not sure how to wire the test jig, maybee I will solder the wires.

best regards

Edgar

 

[BowtieGuy]

Looking good!

 

[paul1598419]

I like it as well. Just be certain that you connections don't become intermittent.

 

[andrew_salinas]

I use a Rigol DL3021 electronic load to test my drivers, but I'm also an electrical engineer so I use it for much more, and $500 may be a bit too much for a hobbyist. Alternatively, you could get a super cheap test load from amazon for about $30 but obviously the accuracy isn't as good though it will probably suffice for what you need it for.

 

[Cyparagon]

Electronic loads sometimes do not play well with switchmode supplies. Oscillations may amplify each other. This problem may worsen in the constant-voltage mode required of the load. Constant-resistance mode might be ideal to mitigate this, but the IV curves of resistors and laser diodes are quite different. Close enough? Maybe.

I've got 5 different lab-quality electronic loads at my home lab, but I've never used one for laser driver testing. Why not? Well, because a string of diodes is smaller, easier to configure, cheaper to replace if I mess something up, and just... works.

Very nice and the spring tension keeps contact.

One spring for 2 contacts? I do not recommend.

 

[Mike Z]

I think it's awesome, wish I had the tools to do that at home

 

[paul1598419]

All you need is a dummy load and a digital multi-meter if you are certain the driver is well built. Depending on the current you are planning on using can make a difference in the type of rectifiers you use to make the load. For currents above 10 amps you may wish to use heat sunk rectifiers. I have a couple using 10 amp rectifiers and a 1 ohm 1% resistor or 20 amp heat sunk rectifiers and a 0.1 ohm 1% resistor.

 

[Mike Z]

I'm waiting for some Nichia 1.6 watt 445nm TO-18 5.6 diodes to get here , so far I have lens'es and a brass laser body with host and cooling fan
, I need to make a tester and get a good driver , if you have some good idea's I would really like to hear them , buy the way one laser is portable and the other is always in the house , batteries portable drivers and stationary drivers , I have a Venis VN500w power supply for one if I can find out if it will be enough power for the driver , lots of questions , I hope I don't wear you out !

 

[paul1598419]

Depends on which diode you have coming. An M140 can be found by the little circle at the corner of the block on the back of the diode. These can be driven with any buck driver set to 1800 mA with two Li-ion batteries. The A130 is less hardy and should not be driven above ~1500 mA, better at less, though. Look at the drivers offered by DTR on his website. Also, X-Woose on eBay has some good drivers.

 

[Mike Z]

I'm waiting for some Nichia 1.6 watt 445nm TO-18 5.6 diodes to get here , so far I have lens'es and a brass laser body with host and cooling fan
, I need to make a tester and get a good driver , if you have some good idea's I would really like to hear them , buy the way one laser is portable and the other is always in the house , batteries portable drivers and stationary drivers , I have a Venis VN500w power supply for one if I can find out if it will be enough power for the driver , lots of questions , I hope I don't wear you out !

Thank you very much , I guess I'll have to wait till it gets here , this corona virus thing is getting ugly with the shipping and every thing else

 

[Giannis_TDM]

Thank you very much , I guess I'll have to wait till it gets here , this corona virus thing is getting ugly with the shipping and every thing else

I feel you man, I ordered 2 drivers and 2 diodes mid Feb (paid shipping btw) and they still haven't arrived cause of the whole corona virus thing going on but hopefully the driver will be here on Monday which happens to be my birthday so you can say that I got myself birthday presents.Edit: just saw your questions for driver for the diode If its the a140 I recommend an ACS1500SE driver from dtr its ajast 0-1.5A if the diode is an m140 I recommend going with a SXD driver from dtr set at 1.8A You will need 2 lipos in series with the SXD driver.

 

[Lifetime17]

Depends on which diode you have coming. An M140 can be found by the little circle at the corner of the block on the back of the diode. These can be driven with any buck driver set to 1800 mA with two Li-ion batteries. The A130 is less hardy and should not be driven above ~1500 mA, better at less, though. Look at the drivers offered by DTR on his website. Also, X-Woose on eBay has some good drivers.

Hi,
Yes as Paul said..
Rich