Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

Homemade CO2 laser

That's amazing you get stuff from all over the world. Great, I'll email you my address and we can talk times and the like, thank you!

Update on the laser: Water pump sorted, just need to plumb in the cooling, and I'm considering a radiator or refrigerator for the cooling water, and possible for the incoming gas, I know cooling hugely improves efficiency, so it could be interesting. I'm considering mounting the tube on a length of slate I have from an old pool table, a nice heavy base would be good for aligning but make it cumbersome.... Next job is clear my workbench and align the mirrors, and insulate the inlet valve from the high voltages.
 





Absolutely massive setback today.... The glass laser tube has cracked. I've pulled the electrodes out, I need to clean them and re fit them with a new tube and better support.
 
Is it heat resistant glass Henry? (pyrex etc)

That layout may be a good start point for a flow gas laser

cheers

Dave
 
Yep borosilicate glass tubing, I think one of the mirror mounts took a knock when I was clearing the worktop yesterday to get ready to align the mirrors. Thankfully I have more glass tubing, I just hope I can get all the glass off the electrodes.

What layout Dave? I can't see anything!
 
The way you have yours built Henry, sealed glass tubes don't lend themselves very well to being modified but the set up you have may well do.

cheers

Dave
 
If you do get the glass off of there let us know how you did it. The only method I can think of is chipping at
it with a hammer and chisel, maybe an engraver for the fine stuff. A hot hydroflouric acid bath would work,
but would probably take the electrode with it. Are there any absorbent materials that work at 593°?
 
Yep I'm going for a flowing gas laser. Have you got any idea as to when you'll be in Bath Dave?

I'm going for careful chipping and possibly an old tool in the lathe with lots of care. The epoxy certainly took well. 593°?
 
Where did you get that figure from? Glass isn't going to be solid at 592.5 and liquid at 593.5. Glass just gets less viscous with heat.
 
I googled it somewhere, I don't know. The point is you have something really hot and so would need a
"paper towel" that isn't going to burn.
 
Thermal shock it Henry. Stick the end in boiling water then dip it in ice cold water, if that's not enough differential then try heating with a gas torch and dipping.

One of the tube manufacturers sells glass to metal seal rings that can be melted into place with a propane torch for building your own tubes.

cheers

Dave

ps: I'll be there this evening about 6 with the tube and psu
 
Last edited:
Well as I don't see any flames over Bath and I haven't had the HSE at the door I'm guessing Henry hasn't set himself or the street he lives in on fire yet with the 80 watt :)

cheers

Dave
 
Thanks for all the advice, but I'm redesigning the electrodes so the same thing won't happen again! Watch this space!

Thank you so much for the tube and power supply Dave, I'm yet to fire it up, I'll make a mounting set up and a beam stop before that but me and Dad are really excited to get it going for the first time! One question though, does it matter which way I attach the power supply to the tube? The electrodes look to be identical at either end so I think it doesn't? I'm just wondering, don't want to harm it.
 
Very much so, the red (+) has to be attached at the internal mirror end (opposite end to the output) same with water supply, + end of the tube inlet or they overheat.

cheers

Dave
 
Ok great, so water in at the mirror along with HV, and ground and water out at the aperture? That's easy to remember, electron and water flow in the same direction as the beam.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top