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FrozenGate by Avery

Help Needed - 1w-2w 445nm Build

jayrob is completely out of MXDL's. all of his other builds are really expensive compared to the MXDL which is no longer available.

any other suggestions..? we almost got this whole thing figured out!
 





supadots said:
jayrob is completely out of MXDL's. all of his other builds are really expensive compared to the MXDL which is no longer available.

any other suggestions..? we almost got this whole thing figured out!
Click to expand...

The 4171 is the one that is out, but I do have the 3405 that DTR showed pictures of above... :rolleyes:

If you use a MicroBoost driver, you can use a 22600 Li-Ion cell.

I have an brand new 22600, and can install the driver at 1.5 Amps as well...
 
Last edited:
here is the deal.

- $200 budget

- im buying my lens and diode from DTR for $94

- i need a compatible host, driver at 1.8A, and battery/batteries.

i want a driver at 1.8A-1.9A, not 1.5A or anything below. and i need a good heatsink to keep duty cycle reasonable.
 
Yep I would go with the 3405. Great host. It is a tank. Now you can either go with Jay's option for the 1.5A microboost and have it all ready to go just throw in one of my diode modules and as a plus with this option you get to stick to a single 22600 battery without having to mod the tialcap.

Or you can go with the buck 1.8A driver and two of the 18350's I linked to but with those you will have to mod the tail cap to accommodate the longer 2X18350's and setup and sink the driver yourself.:beer:

EDIT
supadots said:
here is the deal.

- $200 budget

- im buying my lens and diode from DTR for $94

- i need a compatible host, driver at 1.8A, and battery/batteries.

i want a driver at 1.8A-1.9A, not 1.5A or anything below. and i need a good heatsink to keep duty cycle reasonable.
Click to expand...


Looks like we were posting at the same time.

Looks like Jay's basic 3405 MXDL host/heatsink kit is $38 so that should put you under your budget after you get the buck driver, batteries and my module. You may go a bit over if you still need to get safety glasses but they are a must.:beer:

Also I found a US seller for the cheaper 18350's but he is about double that of DX.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-TRUSTFIRE...le_Batteries&hash=item5ae7be230a#ht_572wt_954
They are about $13 delivered for the pair. Now the nicer AW IMR's are about $20 after shipping.
http://www.lighthound.com/AW-IMR-18350-700mAh-LiMN-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery_p_3818.html
 
Last edited:
DTR said:
Yep I would go with the 3405. Great host. It is a tank. Now you can either go with Jay's option for the 1.5A microboost and have it all ready to go just throw in one of my diode modules and as a plus with this option you get to stick to a single 22600 battery without having to mod the tialcap.

Or you can go with the buck 1.8A driver and two of the 18350's I linked to but with those you will have to mod the tail cap to accommodate the longer 2X18350's and setup and sink the driver yourself.:beer:

EDIT



Looks like we were posting at the same time.

Looks like Jay's basic 3405 MXDL host/heatsink kit is $38 so that should put you under your budget after you get the buck driver, batteries and my module. You may go a bit over if you still need to get safety glasses but they are a must.:beer:

Also I found a US seller for the cheaper 18350's but he is about double that of DX.
2 TRUSTFIRE 18350 RECHARGEABLE BATTERY 1200mah 3.7v | eBay
They are about $13 delivered for the pair. Now the nicer AW IMR's are about $20 after shipping.
AW IMR 18350 700mAh LiMN Rechargeable Lithium Battery
Click to expand...

whats this tailcap mod you speak of?
 
supadots said:
whats this tailcap mod you speak of?
Click to expand...

I will rummage and see if I have a MXDL tailcap when I get home. It is rather simple. There is a plastic spacer that holds the clicky in that you can remove as it is huge removing it increases the length for the batteries. Then you just use some kink of adhesive instead. I usually use the Arctic alumina that I use to sink drivers but there are cheaper alternatives I just use it because it is usually what I have on hand. Just don't use superglue.

Actually you don't have to use adhesive to hold it in as when you have the batteries in they will keep pressure on it to stay in place and you press on the clicky it won't pop out but I used to sell them and wanted them so they could not pop out when they had the tailcap off.:beer:


Here these pictures are somewhat helpful.
Here is the tailcap and you can see there is a plastic spacer that comes 3/4 the way up the tailcap.
tailcap.jpg


It just unscrews out of the tailcap and then you have these pieces.
4855584089_59d34d02da_b.jpg


You would just leave the clicky in and you can either at this point just throw your batteries in and go or you can put a dab of adhesive on the three points marked if you want it in there permanently seated.
tailcap4.jpg
 
Last edited:
DTR said:
I will rummage and see if I have a MXDL tailcap when I get home. It is rather simple. There is a plastic spacer that holds the clicky in that you can remove as it is huge removing it increases the length for the batteries. Then you just use some kink of adhesive instead. I usually use the Arctic alumina that I use to sink drivers but there are cheaper alternatives I just use it because it is usually what I have on hand. Just don't use superglue.

Actually you don't have to use adhesive to hold it in as when you have the batteries in they will keep pressure on it to stay in place and you press on the clicky it won't pop out but I used to sell them and wanted them so they could not pop out when they had the tailcap off.:beer:


Here these pictures are somewhat helpful.
Here is the tailcap and you can see there is a plastic spacer that comes 3/4 the way up the tailcap.

It just unscrews out of the tailcap and then you have these pieces.

You would just leave the clicky in and you can either at this point just throw your batteries in and go or you can put a dab of adhesive on the three points marked if you want it in there permanently seated.
Click to expand...

thanks for the pics, ill mod the tailcap for sure. i think im ready to order. know any glasses for less than $40?
 
I think the BlitzBuck goes up to 3A, so theres your 1.8A driver there. I think :/
 
sorry about completly goin off topic but is that a little electronic kinda safe you hav ur laser resting on ?? .. do u store ur lasers inside ?? ...i like that ;)
 
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