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FrozenGate by Avery

HELP: Lite-on DL-DVDRW diodes

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Mar 13, 2012
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Hi All,

So I had this Lite-on DH-20A3H dvd writer sitting around for couple of years, today I decided to open it up and extract diodes out of it. Burner is DL-DVDRW, 20x with lightscribe

I got 2 diodes out of it, can anyone please let me know any info on them? or anyone else has any experience with this burner? from the search on lite-on, most said that they have SOC in them, but mine looks to be LOC...

- can someone please confirm if the open can diodes is long or short open can? to be it looks long, but would like to confirm. and also it is the red diode, correct?
- Second, the regular diode, what kind of diode is it? IR? or it is also a red diode? diode has blue tint lens on it, if that gives any hint

IMG_4656.JPG


IMG_4657.JPG


Thanks for reading and looking forward for some input on this.

Thanks!
 
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I'm not certain but I think the one with the blue tint is red.
 
Generally in DVD Burners when there is an open can diode and a closed can diode, the open can is the burning red one. Test that one out with a driver to see, though.
 
lman said:
I'm not certain but I think the one with the blue tint is red.
Click to expand...

complete failure here... Do some reading.


The closed can diode is infrared, (I think about 780nm) so its still visible to most persons. It will look extremly weak, but will still be dangerous, so be careful if you want to play around with that.

I know its a german forum, but you can find some close ups of the LOC on this site and compare it to your diode:

Klick

-madeye
 
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Fretwrecker94 said:
Generally in DVD Burners when there is an open can diode and a closed can diode, the open can is the burning red one. Test that one out with a driver to see, though.
Click to expand...

yes i am hopping, it would be great if it is LOC :)

MadEye said:
complete failure here... Do some reading.


The closed can diode is infrared, (I think about 780nm) so its still visible to most persons. It will look extremly weak, but will still be dangerous, so be careful if you want to play around with that.

I know its a german forum, but you can find some close ups of the LOC on this site and compare it to your diode:

Klick

-madeye
Click to expand...

^great info thanks, to me it looks like LOC (especially from my 2nd pic) die in the middle is all the way from the bottom of the diode to the top edge, but I really want to have others opinion on this matter, from my pictures. Sorry i dont own a powerful camera, so this is the best i could do with the pictures :cryyy:

Also, there are no (-) and (+) markings on the diodes, how do i know which pins are (-) & (+)

i am planning on building small lasers eventually from these diodes, once i have enough data on them for current, driver to use etc.

looking for some more feedback :beer:

thanks!
 
All red diodes used in DVD burners use the same pinout.
The case pin is always (-). The top pin, when the case pin is on the right, is (+).

here's a photo.

scaled.php


What speed was the drive rated at? if its 16x its probably and SOC diode.
If it was 20x-22X it is most likely an LOC
 
yes its 20x, so i am thinking of run it at 400-450mA, is it a good current for longevity of this diode? duty cycle i want at least 1 min on. not sure how many mW i will get with that current, maybe around 250mW??

thanks
 
These are same like LPC-815 but less efficient, they will work great from 350~375mA
Dont push them beyond 400mA..
 
Awesome. I'd say 400-440mA is a good current setting for LOCs. More towards 400 for longevity. The duty cycle is pretty much dependant on what you use as a host. If you use a big aluminum CPU heatsink then you'll get a long run time. If you use just the bare AixiZ module, you'll get a short run time. Most handheld hosts' heatsinks dissipate enough heat for a 1 minute duty cycle.
In my Guidesman (see description in my sig) I'm getting about 260mW from an LOC running at 428mA through a glass lens coated for 650nm. And I can run it for about 2 minutes comfortably. I've never tested it past that, but it's fine with that duty cycle.

I'll be posting a thread about it tomorrow hopefully so I'll keep you updated if you'd like.

I know it's a shameless self promotion, but check out my review and builds thread in my signature. I've done a few red lasers as I think you'd benefit and get some ideas from checking them out.

I hope your build goes fantastically! If you have any questions please feel free to ask me or PM as they arise!

*Edit* as per Sinner's suggestion, I'd think you'd be better suited to run it under <400mA. Just to be safe :)
 
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thank you both for some great suggestions and all the info. Fretwrecker94 no worries, i will be looking forward to see your thread on your LOC build, that would help me great deal with my own build.

Yes, i will be using flashlight host with big enough heat sink, aixiz module, and glass lens for red... so I can at least get 1 min duty cycle. to be honest i am very happy with 1 min cycle with any handheld :)

Also, i am very impressed by your DIY LMP, awesome job on that :beer:

Hope you are ready for some PMs in few weeks :)

thanks everyone, i guess i know now, how to deal with these diodes moving forward :D
 
Thanks for the kind words :beer:
I'll do my best to answer your questions! Can't wait to watch your build unfold!
 
So, does any one know about this IR diode? how much current it can safely take and what kind of numbers to expect from it?
 
^very nice, thanks for the link

nice simple build :beer:
 
have seen this used in many Liteon drives.

The open can ones are very fragile though, get careless and that exposed wire is history.

Got me thinking though, could we electroplate the wires (just the wires) to increase the useable current?

This would be a particularly badass hack if it works, and would likely fry the diode if it went wrong.
The Al coating would probably get eaten quickly but if you used an organic solvent then this could yet work.

-A
 
^speaking of that, i did drop this diode when i was taking it out of its heat sink :D lets see if it is still god or not :beer:
 
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