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Help identifying diodes

Dusty_Lenses

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Yea the divergence is quite aggressive, you could be losing some of your output at the edges, you'll find out when you test with a G2 lens.

I also tested in the block before extraction with the factory gang lens and got a low reading, like 4W, then I cleaned the gang lens with a Zeiss wipe and all the power was there, 6.5W, it's amazing how much loss there is from just touching a lens with our hands and I like to keep my hands clean, still it makes a big difference.

One more question regarding these nubm47's

So I got one installed on a laser engraving machine. Nothing special, its a run of the mill generics that was advertised as being 2.5W and was only outputting 1.2W and blew at 2.1W.

I turned the trimmer up on the PCB and was feeding the new 47 LD IIRC 5.2A. It was running fine, then poof! I got a single 30 second run out of it. Even added sufficient cooling for it,

Pulled it apart and its the diode thats blown, not the driver.

So my question, what should I set the LD current to? Im assuming that the TTL blanking and max current was just too much stress.

Anybody have experience with this?
 





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For steady use in a decent heat sink I wouldn't go past 3.5 - 4.0A because there is a heat bottleneck at the diode and for short duty cycle use such as a pointer no more than 4.5A otherwise waste heat builds up and reduces your output, you want your output to be stable which it will be @ 3.5A - 4.0A in a good heat sink, something with fins and a fan will really let you run continuously.
 

Dusty_Lenses

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For steady use in a decent heat sink I wouldn't go past 3.5 - 4.0A because there is a heat bottleneck at the diode and for short duty cycle use such as a pointer no more than 4.5A otherwise waste heat builds up and reduces your output, you want your output to be stable which it will be @ 3.5A - 4.0A in a good heat sink, something with fins and a fan will really let you run continuously.
I think I may have overshot the current big time. This "benbox" software is super buggy. The intensity setting for high output will produce different currents at a given value each time you change the value. So where I had tested 5.1-5.2A there may have been much greater spikes.

Ive got it set now to 3.6A with a G9 lens, and added a current monitor to see how it goes. So far so good, it hasn't gone past the 3.6A.
I'd crank it up a little more, but dont want to risk another diode.

Edit-

I added one of those small yet powerful fans from the a-140. Albeit noisy, its keeping the exterior nice and cool.
 
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You can also use a 5W laser diode with a replaced window can and backfill that has the addition of a FAC lens installed or if you want some serious cutting power with improved beam profile then check out this 20W beauty using 4 corrected 5W laser diodes.


There's a teardown by smackitup here > https://laserpointerforums.com/thre...00-laser-module-tear-down.109530/post-1612498
 

Dusty_Lenses

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Scored another projector cheap, though like the picture so much I dont want to take it apart lol

What is the difference between the v and f series? all the same LD's
with different features as projectors? So many different models, its quite crazy 👀
 
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You just have to know what diodes are used in what projectors, the projector lettering denotes the OEM's product line and is unrelated.
 

Dusty_Lenses

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I wonder what the difference is by rated lumen output?
Any idea what block is in the v110W? Or did they slip in a blue LED?

8 LD's V2 - 3000 L
10 LD'sv10X -3,300 L
? v110W - 3,500 L
 
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110W uses the 10 diode block of NUBM47-A1
Sometimes they just drive them a little harder or change some optics to produce a 3300 vs. 3000 lumen rating.
Now the V1 had a lower rating than the V2 but the V2 has 8 diodes where the V1 has an 8 hole block with only 7 laser diodes and 1 empty hole.
 

Dusty_Lenses

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110W uses the 10 diode block of NUBM47-A1
Sometimes they just drive them a little harder or change some optics to produce a 3300 vs. 3000 lumen rating.
Now the V1 had a lower rating than the V2 but the V2 has 8 diodes where the V1 has an 8 hole block with only 7 laser diodes and 1 empty hole.
I see. What about the 465nm blocks? Any idea which device they come from? I bought a couple from china but they turned out to be heavily used, both with low output and distorted beams.

So far I have harvested from a V2, V10X, and a clean pin block of 08's from an ebay sale. Im really liking the color of the 465nm LD's. I would like to get a block without breaking the bank.
 

Dusty_Lenses

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The best way to buy one is with the GBall removed and a backfilled window can replaced.

Id much rather get 8 - 10 for the price of two. Are the 07's from a hybrid LED laser projector or one of those laser projectors? I'd imagine thats where the greens are coming from, would that be a correct assumption?
 
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I don't know what units contain any of the greens or the 07's but 07's are kind of scarce and pricey, always have been.

You know there's also the NUBM0C which is more recent and stronger.

 

Dusty_Lenses

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I don't know what units contain any of the greens or the 07's but 07's are kind of scarce and pricey, always have been.

You know there's also the NUBM0C which is more recent and stronger.

I'm going to check out the 0C when I have a few spare bucks. Those lighter blues are such a nice color 🍺
 




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