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help: highest current to run NUBM44-V2 without heatsink

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SomeLaserGuy

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Suppose i were to put a NUBM44-V2 450nm Diode with a G-2 Lens and a ACS5500BU Laser Driver into a 35mm Copper Module, what is the highest possible current i could set the Laser Driver to supply for a prolonged time without buying a large heatsink?

(I say large heatsink as i would be open to buying the smaller 22mm heatsink for the 12mm Copper Modules if it provided better thermal dissipation than a 35mm Copper Module by itself without its clunky shelf heatsink)
 
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SomeLaserGuy said:
Suppose i were to put a NUBM44-V2 450nm Diode with a G-2 Lens and a ACS5500BU Laser Driver into a 35mm Copper Module, what is the highest possible current i could set the Laser Driver to supply for a prolonged time without buying a large heatsink?

(I say large heatsink as i would be open to buying the smaller 22mm heatsink for the 12mm Copper Modules if it provided better thermal dissipation than a 35mm Copper Module by itself without its clunky shelf heatsink)
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Hey SomeLaserGuy, I'm already using that diode model, testing it in a power suppy I've discovered that at 1V to 3V3 (an average of 500mA) it's already burning, I had to used a FAN to keep it runing, but when pass like 45-60 seconds it will continue warming. By my own experencie, I reccomend you to use this heatsinks (the aluminium ones), in addition with thermal paste and a good refrigeration, the black ones are the best 'cause their optics allows the diode to drain more heat, you can reforce them with black nail polish.

DO NOT TRY TO a higher voltage, I already made that test and at 3.7 V consumes more than 1 amp, unless you want an iron.

1608260736221.png
Hope this information was useful.
 
dunkelheit_phoenix_2008 said:
Hey SomeLaserGuy, I'm already using that diode model, testing it in a power suppy I've discovered that at 1V to 3V3 (an average of 500mA) it's already burning, I had to used a FAN to keep it runing, but when pass like 45-60 seconds it will continue warming. By my own experencie, I reccomend you to use this heatsinks (the aluminium ones), in addition with thermal paste and a good refrigeration, the black ones are the best 'cause their optics allows the diode to drain more heat, you can reforce them with black nail polish.

DO NOT TRY TO a higher voltage, I already made that test and at 3.7 V consumes more than 1 amp, unless you want an iron.

View attachment 70820
Hope this information was useful.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply, its very useful. However i cant find that heatsink anywhere. Would you mind posting a link to yours?
 
You could run it just beyond lasing threshold and it might not get too hot, but there wouldn't be much output power. What you need to do to determine how much output you can run the diode at without a heatsink, you would need to measure the temperature and only push it to the maximum specified operating temperature.

Reality is, if mounted in a 12 mm DTR module, especially if using the solid copper back end, it will be in a small heat sink, even though not designed as one. It would not cool that particular high power capable diode much due to the limited mass and surface area, but it could help some. I wouldn't run the diode itself outside of a mount as I would expect it to heat up too much very quickly, even if only running at the lasing threshold with very little output.
 
Alaskan said:
You could run it just beyond lasing threshold and it might not get too hot, but there wouldn't be much output power. What you need to do to determine how much output you can run the diode at without a heatsink, you would need to measure the temperature and only push it to the maximum specified operating temperature.

Reality is, if mounted in a 12 mm DTR module, especially if using the solid copper back end, it will be in a small heat sink, even though not designed as one. It would not cool the diode much due to the limited mass and surface area, but it could help some. I wouldn't run the diode itself outside of a mount as I would expect it to heat up too much very quickly, even if only running at the lasing threshold with very little output.
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So youre saying its better to use the 12mm module and its 22mm heatsink rather than just a 35mm module?
 
No, just referenced the smallest laser diode mount I would consider at theshold power output levels, the 35 mm module will do much better, but measure the case or heat sink temperature to know if it is enough at the output power you are running the diode at. There are people running that diode in lessor heat sinks than that mount alone, but the run time is limited due to the heat rising so much so fast. I'd try it, see how long you can run it with that alone, but watch that temperature!

There is so much mass in that big copper mount, it will allow full output power for awhile, but without fins, the transfer to air isn't going to happen fast enough. The temperature will probably rise in a linear manner, but without enough surface area through fins to increase the ability of the heat to get out of the copper and transfer to the air, eventually, it will get too hot. With that diode, you could use a choice of batteries which can run down too fast to overheat too much, if they don't have enough capacity. That and mounting the copper to the host well enough, with enough mass in the host handle, that could help act as a heat sink too.
 
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What is your intention for output power, maximum with a long run time? If so, better use a big heat sink and some good large high capacity batteries, if wanting to build a pointer. If wanting maximum power and run time with that diode, I recommend an aggressive heat sink build using a driver which can handle three Li-ion batteries (12.6 volts) and use no less than 26650 cells.

Call me crazy (many already know that) but I love big heat sinks like this, but it's too big for most, makes an awkward pointer shape and the fins are able to bend too easily for durability, something half this size with thicker fins would be more reasonable.

www.ebay.com

Aluminum and copper heatsink for computer | eBay

<p dir="ltr">Computer Heatsink. Condition is "Used". Shipped with USPS First Class.<br> It just looks cool...</p>
www.ebay.com
 
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Alaskan said:
What is your intention for output power, maximum with a long run time? If so, better use a big heat sink and some good large high capacity batteries, if wanting to build a pointer. With that diode, I recommend an aggressive heat sink build using a driver which can handle three Li-ion batteries (12.6 volts) and use no less than 26650 cells.
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My mistake, i shouldve specified. I want to build a laser cnc engraver using this diode. And just so im sure, using a housing like this (odicforce.com/Adjustable-Focus-Heavy-Duty-Heatsink-/-Laser-Diode-Housing-for-90mm-Diodes-with-Fan) would be preferable to a 35mm solid copper module and something like this (ebay.com/i/271401084774) ?
 
The link to ebay does not work. For CNC use, you need a much more aggressive heat sink with a fan than used for a pointer, due to the duty cycle needed. I'd either buy one already engineered, or try to make your own which has the same amount of cooling as other CNC heads which use this diode you find commercially produced.

Beware of the ebay listings showing a "20 watt" or higher 450 nm laser head, the Chinese have started specifying the laser heads at the input power and possibly some at a peak pulse output instead of average power, not what I would consider the real output at average power which is much less.

I believe the odicforce host will only lead to disappointment.
 
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Alaskan said:
The link to ebay does not work. For CNC use, you need a much more aggressive heat sink with a fan than used for a pointer, due to the duty cycle needed. I'd either buy one already engineered, or try to make your own which has the same amount of cooling as other CNC heads which use this diode you find commercially produced.

Beware of the ebay listings showing a "20 watt" or higher 450 nm laser head, the Chinese have started specifying the laser heads at the input power and possibly some at a peak pulse output instead of average power, not what I would consider the real output at average power which is much less.

I believe the odicforce host will only lead to disappointment.
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Oh, i should get one that's premade? Alright. Do you know of some good premade ones with a G-2 lens (and preferably a fan)? Sorry, im not as versed in reputable kit manufacturers than other people may be

EDIT: ive found a 5w laser called the 'OFL365-5-TTL3' from odicforce, but you seemed to have stated that they lead to disappointment.
 
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7W CNC heads are mass produced nowadays, would be most economical (time+money) to just buy one of those vs. try making one yourself

The reason people recommend you build your own 7W pointer is because looks matter with a pointer and there are not many companies who are willing to produce such high powered leisure laser products (probably due to less demand and more risk of lawsuits)... those that do make 7W pointers charge exorbitantly high prices (hence why it makes sense to build it yourself)
 
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