Heatsinks for Driver?

[Greenmechanic]

So I can run a microboost at 1.2A with no heatsinking? I'm confused lol... I'm not sure who those posts were directed at.

I see you have come up with a solution already, but for others thinking of this.
Running most any driver that will fit into a hand-held at 1A produces way to much heat for the driver to last with out H/S'ing or a fan, IMHO.
Find a way to heat-sink it!
The Flex in my Labbie still gets to hot for my liking and it has it's own dedicated fan. I plan on thermal epoxying a small AL. heat-sink to it.
As a general rule; If it is to hot to touch with your finger without being uncomfortable, it's running too hot.

 

[ossumguywill]

I haven't tried my finger, but I'm leaning towards slathering it in thermal grease while leaving the adjustment side exposed. According to drlava, the micro boostdrive is better at handling heat than a flexdrive so I feel a little better about using it in the meantime

 

[Greenmechanic]

I haven't tried my finger, but I'm leaning towards slathering it in thermal grease while leaving the adjustment side exposed. According to drlava, the micro boostdrive is better at handling heat than a flexdrive so I feel a little better about using it in the meantime

Don't try it on the Flex, it will leave a blister.
I have not had the chance to use the Microboost yet. But the Flex gets way too hot and needs a good heat-sink, in my opinion. The size of it alone should tell you it would not be effective at dissipating heat.
A device that dissipates heat effectively will always have Al. or other finned H/S's
But remember, when the Flex. was designed, no canned diode could come close to the current we are pushing now.
I plan on getting a Microboost or two and comparing it with the Flex.
I believe Drlava might have another new driver up his sleeve for use with >1-2A diodes.

 

[ossumguywill]

I can't wait! Some people are just direct-driving through a resistor now, they can't wait either it looks like I'm still trying to find some store who has thermal grease :yabbmad:

 

[CrossOut]

Newegg.com - is where i buy all my computer parts.. one of which includes Thermal Compound.. they also sell thermal grease if thats what you want.

Idk about greese but i use the Arctic cooler MX2 thermal compound. i find its better than AS-5

 

[ossumguywill]

Alright, I gave up looking for local thermal pad/paste suppliers and went on ebay... the paste should be here soon, pads in a while. Total cost, about $8

 

[bhank]

I'm thinking this stuff might do a good job keeping the driver a bit cooler,

Aavid Thermalloy - 161000F00000G - Allied Electronics Mobile

If you check out aavids website they make a few products that would work fine. The only "drawback" I can see is that it sets solid, making it virtually impossible to remove the driver safely and in one piece if you ever needed to. Personally I think it'd be fine as long as you use it in a thin layer on, say, the bottom inside of the drilled out pill in one of jayrob kits only to make a direct thermally conductive path from the driver to the pill. And because it flows fairly easily it would be easy to get it on all surfaces of the driver therefore conducting heat very well.

I plan to use this stuff in my 445 build as soon as I get all my parts.

 

[pharmhand]

Has anyone considered sealing the space up tight and filling it with transformer oil/mineral oil. Great heatsinking and if the electronics go its easily worked on. Im working on a big Jayrob build with alot of space inside the heatsink that could easily be filled like this.
I dont know if anyone has tried this, but experimentation is the only way to advance the "standard" method, right?:thinking:

 

[ossumguywill]

That would be really difficult and impractical for a handheld. You have the chance of a fluid leak, evaporation, needing to disassemble the laser... it's a lot easier just to use solid heat transfer mediums. I'm sure some lab lasers are liquid cooled, but it would be a lot easier to use metal or paste on a portable. Plus, optics+oils do not mix well.