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FrozenGate by Avery

FS/T Thurlby PL320 bench top PSU 0-30V @ 0-2A

I wouldn't recommend testing the diode without a driver direct from the outputs, I killed a PHR by doing that,that Aixiz 635 has a driver.
 





I have tried a PHR and it was fine as I stayed within published limits but as I wasn't aware of the danger...

If this is a regulated power source, surely it should be okay? Isn't that why it's regulated? I tend to be cautious with everything I do and never give anything, "full throttle", (except the LED I first hooked up. Which did explode!)

I always limit the voltage first, (going by sensible data), then the current will max out. This may be naive but without other advice, (or an electronics degree!), I'm only working on trial and error. I think this is about equipment usage rather than equipment limitations. I'm happy to do the trial and error thing but my wallet isn't!

M
 
Morgan said:
I have tried a PHR and it was fine as I stayed within published limits but as I wasn't aware of the danger...

If this is a regulated power source, surely it should be okay? Isn't that why it's regulated? I tend to be cautious with everything I do and never give anything, "full throttle", (except the LED I first hooked up. Which did explode!)

I always limit the voltage first, (going by sensible data), then the current will max out. This may be naive but without other advice, (or an electronics degree!), I'm only working on trial and error. I think this is about equipment usage rather than equipment limitations. I'm happy to do the trial and error thing but my wallet isn't!

M
Click to expand...



It should be okay. the problem is when turning it on and off, sometimes you get voltage spikes then. I was also running mines at 130-150mA , and my soldering wasn't too great back then either :p, and my heatsink also wasn't all that great either.

So looking back it probably died from the current and NOT the PSU.

Regards,

Adam
 
A few things there that could've been responsible for PHR death!

I think it mentions spiking in the manual as there is a capacitor doing a similar job to the one in the LM317 driver that really needs shorting out. However, to avoid them I always go for a slow start from 0 and slowly increase the current until the decimals stop flashing. So far this has worked out fine.

Anyway, I'm T-jacking.

M
 
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