post some tips and photos.
I'll have to work on the photos, not sure I have anything capable of taking a good enough shot of small objects.
As for reflowing, you will need something along the lines of a mylar stencil, available from Polulu.com. You send them your gerber file with the paste layer, they laser cut the stencil and mail it to you.
Position the stencil over the board, wipe some solder paste across with a putty knife, then lift the stencil off, leaving a perfect solder paste pattern on the board. Amount of solder is controlled by thickness of stencil. Verify the paste job: it needs to be close, but not 100% exact.
Now carefully populate the board. I use bent tweezers. Take static precautions if called for, which is almost always. Don't drink eight cups of coffee shortly before attempting, you'll need a steady hand.
Preheat your $20 walmart skillet to 200F. Place your board in the center of the skillet, put on the lid and crank the temp knob to 400F. On my skillet, this is max temp. Now watch through the clear plastic lid as the reflow occurs.
As soon as liquidus is reached and the components have aligned from the surface tension, turn the heat OFF. Remove the lid, but don't touch the board yet. If the board cools too quickly, thermal fracture can occur. Wait at least 5 minutes, until the board is cool enough to handle.
Inspect and rework as necessary. Tiny air bubbles in your solder paste can pop under heat, blowing tiny passives clean off the board. And sometimes the alignment doesn't happen properly (4mil stencil can help this. a little more paste can make the alignment smoother) but you shouldn't have any bridges to deal with.
Watch all the reflow methods on youtube, I did. While some prefer to use a toaster oven, and it probably is better if you find the right one, I find a cheap skillet does the job just fine.