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First post, second build. (Osram PLPT9 450LB_E)

mhostilis

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Nov 29, 2023
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Hello all, don't recall if I have ever made an account on this forum, but if not this is my first post.

10-12 years ago I put together an m140 pointer using the SurvivalLaser host kit.

I am now looking to make my next build. I really cannot afford to buy a nubm08 or 44, and would technically even prefer something in 465nm, but I have found what seem like good deals on the Osram PLPT9 450LB_E, which emits 447nm and 5w.

I have read the datasheet and beam divergence is declared in seemingly different units than that of nichia diodes....or I just don't know how to read the datasheet....not sure how much beam divergence of the diode matters considering the lens collimates anyway. Pardon my ignorance, please do educate me.

Has anybody had experience with this diode? Why do I not see it used for custom pointers? I would like to have put it in a SurvivalLaser Stainless steel host (the one with the extended and tapered heatsink, and pair it with either a G-2 or G-8 lens (which would you recommend?)

I assume any 12mm module/housing will do, correct?

Also does anybody know where I can get an appropriate driver for this? Also whether or not a driver pill is necessary and if so where to get one that fits that host?

Sorry guys it's been a long time and my memory needs brushing up....

If this diode is not ok, could you help recommend something 5w+? I would ideally like to spend no more than 100-150 usd....am I hoping for too much?

Can you guys help me make this a reality?
 





PLPT9 450LB_E is rated @ 5W and can't be pushed much beyond that yet is has divergence as bad as the NUBM44.
A better diode is the NDB7A75 which will do 5W+ and has divergence between the NDB7875 and NUBM44.
G8 lens for the best far field beam/spot and G2 lens for the best desktop performance and burning.

Message Lifetime17 about a host and get a diode, module and driver from DTR


 
PLPT9 450LB_E is rated @ 5W and can't be pushed much beyond that
Actually, this osram diode can be pushed over 8W same as all other NUBM44+ series diodes (44, 47, 4F, 0F, 0G, etc.)
As you can see on the graph, the power does not decline anywhere near 5W

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5W is the rated power at which the diode can reliably offer 10k hours lifetime

I recommend this seller to get better pricing:

They are legit, Ive purchased and tested them from him myself

I also started selling some diodes and drivers if you want to take a look!
 
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Maybe they have been updated since I bought mine which died just barley past 6W.

Were you using active cooling when you tested yours ?

EDIT: I checked the datasheets and NUBM0F says 5.4W @ 3.0A where as the Osram PLPT9 450LB_E datasheet says 5.3W @ 4.0A, so the Osram is much less efficient according to the datasheet.

Screenshot from 2023-11-29 23-26-49.pngScreenshot from 2023-11-29 23-26-19.png
 
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Maybe they have been updated since I bought mine which died just barley past 6W.

Were you using active cooling when you tested yours ?

EDIT: I checked the datasheets and NUBM0F says 5.4W @ 3.0A where as the Osram PLPT9 450LB_E datasheet says 5.3W @ 4.0A, so the Osram is much less efficient according to the datasheet.

View attachment 76819View attachment 76820
Yes, youll need great cooling on copper surface
 
Ok, so I think I'd rather be better off using something more efficient as I seem to understand this is better for heat control. Please correct me if I am wrong. I also do care about having a good duty cycle on my laser. (All cooling will be passive in module/heatsink form)


I have found the following diodes for what seem like good prices (not sure if i'm allowed to mention them...if not, my apologies). They are all recanned with the flat lens (except for the NUBM47 as unless i'm wrong came originally with the flat lens?)

  1. NUBM08 (39.50 usd) ("4.75W 5W")
  2. NUBM0A (39.50 usd) ("5W")

    These two seem very similar and I don't understand the difference...any info would be appreciated

  3. NUBM47-A1 (39.50 usd) ("7W+")
    (New "open box" and "soldered" ebay ad seems more "iffy" than the others.....also this seems to be quite a bit more powerful for the same price, what am I missing?)
  4. NUBM0E (40.50 USD) ("5W-5.5W")
  5. NUBM0F (44.50) ("5.5W-6W")

Can you help explain the differences between these to me and which you think should go for considering the price difference is not massive for something I do fairly seldom? I would like to set the one I do get in a sleeker host if duty cycle/lifetime of the diode isn't compromised by much...Need I use a copper module, or can I use a "standard" module and set it in a copper heatsink? Is it different.

I am attaching the pic of the host which caught my attention which houses a 12mm module. Will this be reasonable or do I need a large copper module like the other pic attached?


I find myself trusting the NUBM47-A1 ad slightly less as from what I understand these parts are fairly delicate so I would appreciate as untouched a product as I can get my hands on - then again the others are recanned so I feel it's safe to assume all are "open box", especially if extracted from arrays (again not sure where Ebay sellers get these really....)

At the moment I'm leaning towards the NUBM0F but I am failry ignorant, so please help me out if you've the time and will. Feel free to explain these things to me as if I were five years old as I may as well be, contextually.

Much love,

Matteo
 

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These guys.
 

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What they are calling a flat lens is just the diode's window. I don't have experience with all these diodes, but do have with the 44s. Hope this helps in some way. As for heat sinking copper is better than aluminum, but either one will work if use use enough to wick away the heat.
 
The nubm 0A, 0E, 0F, 08, 44, 47 are all the same as far as the divergence which is aggressive on the fast axis but the 0F is the strongest in my testing. Note: (Divergence is the same as long all have the flat lens/window can. )

What is your intended use ? If burning on the bench top then any of these are fine, but if you want a nice pointing beam you may be disappointed with the divergence.
 
What they are calling a flat lens is just the diode's window. I don't have experience with all these diodes, but do have with the 44s. Hope this helps in some way. As for heat sinking copper is better than aluminum, but either one will work if use use enough to wick away the heat.
Are you implying there's no downside to the non-recanned diode? I read somewhere on this forum that the measured output with the ball lens was significantly lower compared to that of the recanned one (due to dispersion? absorption?)

The ones with the ball lens are significantly less expensive? Why would one go for the flat-lens? Can the one with the ball lens front piece be pressed into the "standard" modules? Does the large ball lens piece in front not get in the way of the module lens (still undecided between G-2 and G-8 but was leaning towards the former.
 
The nubm 0A, 0E, 0F, 08, 44, 47 are all the same as far as the divergence which is aggressive on the fast axis but the 0F is the strongest in my testing. Note: (Divergence is the same as long all have the flat lens/window can. )

What is your intended use ? If burning on the bench top then any of these are fine, but if you want a nice pointing beam you may be disappointed with the divergence.
I would say it would be multi-use at this point as I need to repair my M140 pointer and its "carcass" is abroad at the moment.

Are there any diodes of similar power outputs for similar prices with better divergence? How bad are we talking on these with a G-2 and how much better would the alternatives be for how much more money?

I assume these don't exactly look like flashlight beams in the night sky, do they? The videos like the one of which I posted the pic in this reply makes it look like "Joe laser beam"...it does look like a fattish beam but for why does having tiny beam really beat having a 1/4 inch beam when pointing at stuff? Does it become like a foot-wide beam as you point farther? Like If I were to point it at the moon would it it visibly spread out as visually followed down-beam?

Could I reduce divergence with a G-8 lens compared to a G-2 for "best of both worlds" or would that just yieled me the worst of both by reducing burning power and still not having good enough divergence values to use as a good pointer?
 

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The one pictured is the NUBM0E with the 3 Element lens. I know the guy with the laser from the photo.
 
An 08, 44, 47, 0A, 0E, 0F with a G2 lens focused at only 5 meters makes a bar shaped spot that's only a couple mm thick or less, yet it's 50 mm long, now with a G8 you cut that in half to about 25mm long.
Now an M-140 or NDB7875 ( typical 1.5 - 3W ) will make a small bar about 10 - 12mm long with a 3E or G8 and this is what you would have seen with your M - 140.

You could use a beam expander for distance pointing but a 15 - 50mw 520nm would be a better distance pointer, such as for astronomy.
 
An 08, 44, 47, 0A, 0E, 0F with a G2 lens focused at only 5 meters makes a bar shaped spot that's only a couple mm thick or less, yet it's 50 mm long, now with a G8 you cut that in half to about 25mm long.
Now an M-140 or NDB7875 ( typical 1.5 - 3W ) will make a small bar about 10 - 12mm long with a 3E or G8 and this is what you would have seen with your M - 140.

You could use a beam expander for distance pointing but a 15 - 50mw 520nm would be a better distance pointer, such as for astronomy.

Why NDB7875 over the more powerful NDB7A75? Is the divergence worse on the latter?

If divergence is equal and the latter is more powerful, how would you compare an NDB7A75 with a g2 to a NUMB0E or 0F with a G-8 or 3E lens?

Also, where do the g3 and g7 lenses stand in all this?
 





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