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FrozenGate by Avery

First Attempt (fail)

blackspirit said:
Possible murder

Just a long shot, but worth the try.

Ditch the DMM, get fresh batteries, have the battery and LD directly to the driver. (solder), and give it about 7v
Its also hard to tell from the photo, but is the LD + - bridged?

and resize the photos, lol
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That's a really bad advice to give, dude!

DMM is not exactly cheapo that you can just buy a new one, if you haven't noticed autoranging functions and stuff.

We already confirmed that LD is dead, no need to cause more damage.
 





Eudaimonium said:
That's a really bad advice to give, dude!

DMM is not exactly cheapo that you can just buy a new one, if you haven't noticed autoranging functions and stuff.

We already confirmed that LD is dead, no need to cause more damage.
Click to expand...

I know, hence the "long shot"


Did I say the DMM was crap?

My bad, could of worded it better, but I was saying ditch the DMM, meaning, get it out of the circuit
 
blackspirit said:
I know, hence the "long shot"


Did I say the DMM was crap?

My bad, could of worded it better, but I was saying ditch the DMM, meaning, get it out of the circuit
Click to expand...
Oh that, haha :crackup:
Many sorrys, I understood you as "throw it in the trash can" , my bad! :beer:
 
Second attempt, exactly the same as the first.

I done, I give up on lasers. Right now I'm banking on it being the driver, but do I really want to start all over from scratch. Hell I'm not even going to buy a prebuilt one, this must be a sign to not mess with such things.

This is a new diode and it was the exact same result, another LED.

Could this be because I'm powering everything off that 9v there?
 

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Furthermore can someone explain to me how a laser diodes actually "burns" out.
This diode still looks just fine @20 and 400x.
 

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before you give up try with a fresh brand new 9v batt. 9v are frowned upon in this hobby because they don't carry enough current unless they are new

also, i can't explain the how, but i do know that a diode can die with out the interal wires breaking. when it happens where the interal wires don't break, some ppl use those diodes instead of test loads.

michael
 
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I tried it with the 5v lead from a power supply. 12A capable.

Next time around I'll be using a current regulated power supply (actual plug in power supply), and eliminating all possible problems one at a time.
 
chipdouglas said:
also, i can't explain the how, but i do know that a diode can die with out the interal wires breaking. when it happens where the interal wires don't break, some ppl use those diodes instead of test loads.

michael
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It's known as COD or catastrophic optical damage. The end facets of the laser dye basically burn up. It is responsible for the majority of laser diode deaths.
 
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zerocover said:
I tried it with the 5v lead from a power supply. 12A capable.

Next time around I'll be using a current regulated power supply (actual plug in power supply), and eliminating all possible problems one at a time.
Click to expand...

A 5v supply would not work. If you read the pdf for the driver you must have a minimum of 2.25v + the diode v drop (in this case around 3v) and its a good idea to leave about 2.5v minimum head room for proper regulation. So your looking at a min 7.75v, plus you need the current to back it up which most 9v batts cannot provide. You may try two 9v batts in parallel just to test.

BTW sorry about the double post
 
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Hook the diode up directly to a couple of weakened ni mh rechargeables to test.

But it looks like the alligator clips are to blame. Did you at least see a very bright and fleeting flash of the laser at full power before it went dim?
 
pocketfluff said:
Hook the diode up directly to a couple of weakened ni mh rechargeables to test.

But it looks like the alligator clips are to blame. Did you at least see a very bright and fleeting flash of the laser at full power before it went dim?
Click to expand...
DON'T DO THAT!

Dude, WTF?

Hooking it up directly to a battery can only tell that it's now an LED. You can get the same testing results from hooking it up to wall outlet.

As I've said, permanent solder connection between diode and a driver is needed, because driver has a capacitor on the output, paralel to the diode.
 
pocketfluff said:
Hook the diode up directly to a couple of weakened ni mh rechargeables to test.

But it looks like the alligator clips are to blame. Did you at least see a very bright and fleeting flash of the laser at full power before it went dim?
Click to expand...

No bright flash either time. I know its the driver.
 
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