Enchanted Beams Thread

[paul1598419]

I recall AD saying that he did use a remote tailswitch.

Quote:
"That's why I'm using remote tailswitch setup that I mentioned..
If you will use normal tail switch ON/OFF it can cause beam shaking on the picture.
Using remote tail switch laser stays complete still and makes your photo shooting much more easier when you can control you laser behind the camera."

Thanks for the confirmation, Jeff. I didn't think it was a ridiculous idea. Seemed like the best way to manage a shot especially if the exposure time wasn't very long.

 

[BobMc]

I recall AD saying that he did use a remote tailswitch.

Quote:
"That's why I'm using remote tailswitch setup that I mentioned..
If you will use normal tail switch ON/OFF it can cause beam shaking on the picture.
Using remote tail switch laser stays complete still and makes your photo shooting much more easier when you can control you laser behind the camera."

Thanks Bowtie, a remote tail switch, interesting. I wonder if he made it himself or whether he bought it. Seems like it would work quite well.

 

[ArcticDude]

Thanks Bowtie, a remote tail switch, interesting. I wonder if he made it himself or whether he bought it. Seems like it would work quite well.

It's a DIY remote switch because I couldn't find any remote switches for 26650's bodies.
It is basicly 3,5mm jack and it fits to regular tailcap and it can be changed back to regular switch if needed.
I have two different plugs for it, one is remote and the other is "safety plug" in case you want to use laser from the side switch.

I like to have all my lasers in same size hosts, because I can lend parts from one to another one.
You can call me boring but it's make my life a lot easier..

-If 20mm PCB will fit to your tailcap, I can send you PM of part list and PCB for DIY remote switch, but you'll have to solder it together by yourself.

 

[BobMc]

It's a DIY remote switch because I couldn't find any remote switches for 26650's bodies.
It is basicly 3,5mm jack and it fits to regular tailcap and it can be changed back to regular switch if needed.
I have two different plugs for it, one is remote and the other is "safety plug" in case you want to use laser from the side switch.

I like to have all my lasers in same size hosts, because I can lend parts from one to another one.
You can call me boring but it's make my life a lot easier..

-If 20mm PCB will fit to your tailcap, I can send you PM of part list and PCB for DIY remote switch, but you'll have to solder it together by yourself.

That's kinda neat Arctic. Like the idea. Have used 3.5 mm jacks on occasions, so I know how they function.

Like your matching lasers, there not boring. I favor matching sets myself. I seem to find a host that I like and get a couple or more wavelengths in that host than move to another host that strikes my fancy.

I'll give the remote set up some thought and see what my needs might be.

Thanks for posting the pics of your remote switch ( and lasers ) nice!

 

[BobMc]

Couple more, but their still to blurry, gotta figure out why?

I'm trying to learn. :thinking:

 

[ArcticDude]

Couple more, but their still to blurry, gotta figure out why?

I'm trying to learn. :thinking:

Those are still nice beamshots Bob!

What f-number you was using? A bigger f-number (smaller aperature) could help you to get sharper pics, but you will need longer exposure time. Using 2-sec self timer could help too.
Also recommend to read a bit of hyperfocal distance

 

[BobMc]

Those are still nice beamshots Bob!

What f-number you was using? A bigger f-number (smaller aperature) could help you to get sharper pics, but you will need longer exposure time. Using 2-sec self timer could help too.
Also recommend to read a bit of hyperfocal distance

Thanks Arctic, F stop is 16, ISO is 1600, exposure time 10 seconds. I am using a 2 second delay. Think I'll try a lower f stop next time.

I'll check out your link, thanks for it and the encrougement.

 

[ArcticDude]

Thanks Arctic, F stop is 16, ISO is 1600, exposure time 10 seconds. I am using a 2 second delay. Think I'll try a lower f stop next time.

I'll check out your link, thanks for it and the encrougement.

That will probably cause more blurness..
If you are using Manual Focus mode, try to use Zooming option on the LCD live view (Magnifying Glass icon button) and then use Manual Focus. That should make focusing easier.

-My camera has an Focus Peaking mode >>, but I prefer to use that "zoom technique" for better focusing results.

 

[BowtieGuy]

Bob, those beam shots are looking better and better, keep up the good work! :kewlpics:

 

[BobMc]

That will probably cause more blurness..
If you are using Manual Focus mode, try to use Zooming option on the LCD live view (Magnifying Glass icon button) and then use Manual Focus. That should make focusing easier.

-My camera has an Focus Peaking mode >>, but I prefer to use that "zoom technique" for better focusing results.

When I use auto focus it seems never to focus,so I have to use manual focus. I'm using a 18-55mm lens, I have a 75-300mm lens. Do you think I'd get better results with it?

Unfortunately I don't have a focus peaking mode.

Bob, those beam shots are looking better and better, keep up the good work! :kewlpics:

Thanks Bowtie! It's a work it progress . But I do have to admit it is fun.

 

[ArcticDude]

When I use auto focus it seems never to focus,so I have to use manual focus. I'm using a 18-55mm lens, I have a 75-300mm lens. Do you think I'd get better results with it?

Unfortunately I don't have a focus peaking mode.

Here is hyperfocal length calculator which is quite handy.

I picked same model than your camera + 18mm lens with f/16 aperature:
rersult : 3.75 feet

So, basicly if closest object in your image is 3.75 feet distance and you focus on that object, everything beyond that should be focused as sharp.
But if your objective is zoomed to max = focal lenght is 55mm and Hyperfocal distance is 34.64 feet

Try to keep objective zoom level Zero(18mm), that will make your focusing / shooting easier

 

[BobMc]

Here is hyperfocal length calculator which is quite handy.

I picked same model than your camera + 18mm lens with f/16 aperature:
rersult : 3.75 feet

So, basicly if closest object in your image is 3.75 feet distance and you focus on that object, everything beyond that should be focused as sharp.
But if your objective is zoomed to max = focal lenght is 55mm and Hyperfocal distance is 34.64 feet

Try to keep objective zoom level Zero(18mm), that will make your focusing / shooting easier

Hot ticket Alaskan! I appericate the schooling, shall do. Next time I get a chance I'll give it a try. I've always had my camera focused all the way in. Will post my results:thanks:

 

[ArcticDude]

Hot ticket Alaskan! I appericate the schooling, shall do. Next time I get a chance I'll give it a try. I've always had my camera focused all the way in. Will post my results:thanks:

Alaskan?!
Ok, you are allowed to use "old card" again Bob

Looking forward for your results

 

[paul1598419]

Close enough. They are both cold.

 

[BobMc]

Alaskan?!
Ok, you are allowed to use "old card" again Bob

Looking forward for your results

Man alive. I'm fired!!!

I am sooo. sorry ArcticDude, you'd think I'd know better. This is the second time I called you by that other Gentlemans name. Don't know what to say but I'm starting to think there's more to this "old age card" ??? Thanks for letting me play it--- again!

 

[CurtisOliver]

Haha, Brian ... i mean Bob! Can I play my youth card yet.