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FrozenGate by Avery

dx infrared






The diodes in True 50 and up are 0.5W 9mm open cans. Multimode of course.

All of these green lasers use multimode diodes. They project a horrible long and thick "bar".. It's nearly impossible to collimate.

You would need a fast axis lens first and then a normal collimator. But i have seen this 9mm diode burn stuff uncollimated. It was scary! I really hope anyone even considering this has IR goggles.
 
VillageIdiot said:
I pulled out my true 30's driver out of sheer curiosity and I can't get the crystals out! They're sealed shut. Wazzup with this?
Click to expand...

How are they sealed? They are usually glued into a round brass thing with a 90° cutout...



jamilm9:
The crystals are also in one part, so the idea of only using the first and discarding the second would not work. Even if you could get them appart without damaging, the efficiency would be at least halved simply from imperfect alignment.
 
I actually have one DX-200 which is ~178mw of 532nm at typical room temp, and maybe only ~20mW of 808nm. And even once the laser heats up, it only drops to about 120mW, minimum. This just *happens* to be one very good DX200. I had one which needed to be sent back, which had big problems-actually got a full credit back to my CC! Guess I'm lucky.

BTW: Nt too sure about the new blues (473). I hear in a year, 10-50mw blue emitting diodes will begin to finally hit the broader market place.
 
sarbanes: Man, you're lucky with the DX200!

I went through four, and each had at least one problem. The best one only has an electrical problem (turns of when the batteries are put in ::)), the other three were mode hopping.

I put the mode hopping one in a more masive host with a real driver (not just a wanna be driver, that emulates a resistor with many components), and i still can't get >100mW for long.

I am hoping the one with the electrical problem will behave better. I am putting it into a massive alluminum body now.
 
VillageIdiot said:
I pulled out my true 30's driver out of sheer curiosity and I can't get the crystals out! They're sealed shut. Wazzup with this?
Click to expand...

It is lock-tighted.  Use a lighter and quickly heat up the brass around where the threads are to soften the adhesive.  Have two pairs of pliers ready to unscrew it once it's warm.  Don't hold it to the flame too long, maybe 10-15 seconds should do.  I hold it at an angle so the flame goes away from the diode and driver.  

DX 5 - 50 use 808 200mW closed can diodes (not 100% sure about the 50, but I had one and looked the same as a 30).
DX 100-200 use 808nm 1W open can diodes (I believe it's 1W, but I know they are open can)
 
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