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FrozenGate by Avery

Drivers for 445

What the fuck :eek:

How long duty cycles did he run it at? And how long are you running your 1400mA?

I'm not really surprised at these numbers. Every time a new diode comes out, we are able to push it farther as a percentage than what it was rated for. For PHRs, you basically have to give it the rated current. For 8x blu-ray diodes you can give it like 120% of the rated current. For 12x blu-ray diodes you can give it like 150%. Now we have these psycho diodes that are designed to run at ~500mW forever and ever and ever in a projector, 300% isn't really so extreme to safely push them. :evil:
 





On the other hand, these AMC7135 drivers state 2.7-6V. So why again is more voltage than a single 3.7V Li-ion needed? Is it getting too hot trying to boost the voltage to 4.5V on a single cell?
It is not a boost driver :p

About the resistor to drop the voltage down, if I use 2xCR123A ( 7.4~8.2v) which resistor should I use ?
I'd like to know this a swell :thanks:
 
What the fuck :eek:

How long duty cycles did he run it at? And how long are you running your 1400mA?

It was Chris, Herrursciences that ran it that high to see how far it would go.

I run mine in 1 min cycles.
 
diode to drop extra voltage =)

amc7135 is a linear buck I think. drops out of regulation if Vf is higher than Vin

curious, for those of you that have tried it, how well does it perform with two Li-Ions, 8.4V?
 
I tried with 2x18350 and 2x18650 and in both cases driver was stable.
But it heats very much and AMC must be heatsinked.

I don't recommend this driver for portable builds just because of heat dissipation.
Duty cycle would be very bad.
 
But if I use a resistor to drop the voltage down, wouldn't it decrease the heat considerately ?
 
Yes you can but resistor will produce heat.
Than means the same heat dissipation.

But that is also good theory.
You can put resistor in tailcap and you can keep front part cooler.
 
Don't these drivers, SHARK Buck & amc7135, provide Vout suitable for LEDs (3.2V)... not necessarily LDs (~4.5V)
Sure, they can pump the current but what about voltage?

So to run a 1000mA output @ 4.5V you would need to select the 1400mA amc7135 designed to output 3.2V... right?

Edit... Also, why can't these things run off a single 18650 battery? Why do they need more voltage than the flexdrive or boostdrive?
 
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Don't these drivers, SHARK Buck & amc7135, provide Vout suitable for LEDs (3.2V)... not necessarily LDs (~4.5V)
Sure, they can pump the current but what about voltage?

So to run a 1000mA output @ 4.5V you would need to select the 1400mA amc7135 designed to output 3.2V... right?

They will deliver the voltage asked for that is under the input voltage. They are not voltage specific in output. The load essentially dictates the voltage.
 
Is it possible to run a Microboost at 800mA with a 3.7V CR123A rechargeable? Or will the battery limit the current the driver can go up-to? Cheers guys.

edit: It seems as long as the 3.7V is decent it'll get the microboost up to 800mA.
 
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No, you cant use 123s. They don't have enough capacity. I think rangedunits said that his laser started to flicker at 500ma with a 123. Definetly go with an 18650 if your gonna turn up the power, and even then they better be high quality 18650s.
 
They will deliver the voltage asked for that is under the input voltage. They are not voltage specific in output. The load essentially dictates the voltage.

Ahh, so that is why the battery voltage needs to be above the LED voltage... therefore no single cell. Thanks for that info!

So using a 1000mA driver WILL deliver 1000mA to the diode so long as the batteries stay over ~4.5V?
 
No, you cant use 123s. They don't have enough capacity. I think rangedunits said that his laser started to flicker at 500ma with a 123. Definetly go with an 18650 if your gonna turn up the power, and even then they better be high quality 18650s.




yes you can use 123a's, I ran them past 700mA in a flex v5.

But a 18650 build would be better.
 


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